Help me with my 10/22 [Archive] - Glock Talk

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FriscoCHL
01-10-2013, 09:34
Hello. I have a 10/22 that will not cycle reliably. I bought it from a guy about five years ago. He could not get it to run right so he sold it to me really cheat and I figured why not for what I got it for. After I got it I got tired of messing with it and moved on to other firearms. With my son getting older and ammo prices rising I would like to get her running right. It will run the CCI hot stuff pretty well but will not run the bulk stuff. I cant make it through 10rnds without 3-4 jams, or more. I have no idea on the internals, i.e. springs and what have you that he might have tried to “upgrade”.

I already did the usual detail cleaning and nothing changed. The only thing I can feel that seems off is when racking the bolt the hammer return spring seems to have a lot of resistance for a .22? It does have a silly tacticool style stock on it but I wouldn’t think that would have any effect on reliability. I appreciate your time and help.

Rustydude
01-10-2013, 16:03
any chance the return spring guide rod is bent? pulling the bolt back should be pretty easy, the bolt mass makes up the need for a heavy spring,sounds like something is binding.

Bob Hafler
01-10-2013, 16:24
I'd change out the rod and return spring.

Unk
01-10-2013, 18:18
When you get tired of playing around with it, send it back to Ruger. You'll get it back in functioning order with ONLY OEM parts.

They may charge you or not but you did get it "really "cheat".

Best.

concretefuzzynuts
01-10-2013, 18:23
I agree. Rod and/or spring. Both are a pretty easy check. Visually inspect the rod to see if it's bent. Look at the spring to see if it is damaged.

Rustydude
01-10-2013, 20:01
http://shopruger.com/10_22-Online-Parts/products/66/

Only $9

CaptToyota
01-10-2013, 20:23
Mine is maybe 25yr old now, only thing I have done to mine is the Volquartzen hammer, a cheap bull barrel, installed set screw behind trigger for overtravel, and radiused the bottom of the bolt where it ride over hammer for a smoother ride when starting to reset hammer with bolt cycle.

Dont think you said anything about scope/rail.... mine had the screws for the rail a wee bit long and stuck inside the receiver.. make sure they flush inside, or bolt/charge handle will hit and detract from smooth operation during fire cycle.

My 13yr old taken a liking to my 10/22, I have a suppressor on it, and he like to break bird bits left on the berm from previous shooters, and it quiet for him not to have to wear ears.

mac66
01-11-2013, 06:38
What exactly is it doing when it jams?

Is is not feeding properly?
Double feeding?
Is it not ejecting properly?
Is is stove piping?
Is is not extracting fired shells?

You said you detail cleaned it. Does that mean you had it apart and put it back together?

FriscoCHL
01-11-2013, 08:11
When you get tired of playing around with it, send it back to Ruger. You'll get it back in functioning order with ONLY OEM parts.

They may charge you or not but you did get it "really "cheat".

Best.


I paid $40 for the rifle, hard sided rifle case, a brick of ammo, and a cheap walmart scope.

FriscoCHL
01-11-2013, 08:19
I agree. Rod and/or spring. Both are a pretty easy check. Visually inspect the rod to see if it's bent. Look at the spring to see if it is damaged.

The spring does not look bent or damaged in any way. after the hammer is reset the bolt assy slides fairly easily. I guess i will start replacing springs and see where that gets me.

FriscoCHL
01-11-2013, 08:26
Mine is maybe 25yr old now, only thing I have done to mine is the Volquartzen hammer, a cheap bull barrel, installed set screw behind trigger for overtravel, and radiused the bottom of the bolt where it ride over hammer for a smoother ride when starting to reset hammer with bolt cycle.

Dont think you said anything about scope/rail.... mine had the screws for the rail a wee bit long and stuck inside the receiver.. make sure they flush inside, or bolt/charge handle will hit and detract from smooth operation during fire cycle.

My 13yr old taken a liking to my 10/22, I have a suppressor on it, and he like to break bird bits left on the berm from previous shooters, and it quiet for him not to have to wear ears.

It did have a scope but I removed it, same performance.

Yes i did detail strip and clean, however it was doing this before i took it apart and didnt change when back together.

Thanks everyone for their imput. :wavey:

Bill Keith
01-12-2013, 11:18
Is it not working with all your magazines? Sometimes the Ruger mags get dirty and need to be cleaned. Another part that is inexpensive is the extractor. If it is bent or not quite right, you'll get jams. Best deal going is the exact-edge extractor from Volquartsen. pops right in and you can get it from www.Midwayusa.com or www.natchezss.com :wavey:

HAMMERHEAD
01-12-2013, 12:32
Please describe the jams more clearly.
Most often with a 10/22 the problem is a dirty or chipped extractor. The spent case doesn't get ejected cleanly, causing jams.
I would remove the bolt and give the extractor a very close inspection.

FriscoCHL
01-12-2013, 17:32
Please describe the jams more clearly.
Most often with a 10/22 the problem is a dirty or chipped extractor. The spent case doesn't get ejected cleanly, causing jams.
I would remove the bolt and give the extractor a very close inspection.

To be honest I can't remember what kind of failure it is because I haven't fired it in 2 or 3 years. When I could not get it to run reliably I put her up and moved on. If the extractor was damaged why would it run better on hotter ammo?

Yes I have excluded the mags.

HAMMERHEAD
01-12-2013, 19:27
Hotter ammo has more power to help in the extraction. Some blow backs like the smaller Beretta pistols have no extractor at all, they rely on hot ammo to self extract and bounce off the ejector. That's why they work best with Stingers.

Even a slightly rounded extractor on a 10/22 or a Mark II (they use the same part) will cause problems.

Try the Volquartsen extractor. For $13 you can't go wrong. Check out the reviews.http://www.midwayusa.com/product/363360/volquartsen-exact-edge-extractor-ruger-10-22-10-22-magnum-mark-ii-mark-iii-22-45

maxpower220
01-14-2013, 07:05
Go over to rimfirecentral.com and read through some of those threads. There are a lot of pictures and break downs of the internals. First, take the rifle apart and clean it well, and keep it wet. Fire it a few times and see if that fixed it. If not, I would chamfer the bolt. It will help cycle the gun and works great for lower quality ammo. RFC has a tutorial for that. Springs may need to be replaced.

To make it easy, just send it to me and I will cover your investment so far. Then you won't have to worry about that 10/22 and can get a gun that works.

Victoriagotagun
01-14-2013, 10:07
To be honest I can't remember what kind of failure it is because I haven't fired it in 2 or 3 years.

I would go shoot it then report your findings. It will be easier to help out if we knew what type of failures it was having.

FriscoCHL
01-20-2013, 16:53
Ok, I replaced the extractor and went out and fired around 40 rnds or so and all went well. I'll be trying out different types of ammo soon to make sure I can trust this rifle. Thanks for everyone's help.