Got a FAL, need help breaking it down [Archive] - Glock Talk

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RHVEtte
02-16-2013, 19:46
So, I went to the pawn shop to get some of my guns back. While I was in there, I noticed they had an FAL. Turns out, it's a metric FAL, built on an IMBEL receiver by CAI. Yes, I know, CAI is a bunch of monkeys most of the time, but I inspected it as thoroughly as I could and decided it was well assembled. Everything's straight, it has double feed ramps, it all looks good. So I bought it. Overpaid by about $200, but with as hard to find as FALs are normally in these parts, I'm just happy to have it.:supergrin:

So, on to the reason for this thread. I decided that it needed a good stripping and cleaning before I see how it handles. While the barrel and chamber areas are fine and pretty clean, I don't think the gas system has ever been taken apart. Black residue everywhere. Trying to take it apart, I accidentally broke the gas adjust detent spring and am unable to drift out the gas tube retaining pin. Any help on where to get a new spring and how to get that damnable pin out?

suburbanhillbilly
02-16-2013, 21:05
http://www.gunthings.com/

Gas regulator springs - $4.00. Send Brad an e-mail to make sure he has it in stock first. I've bought a lot of stuff from him ~ great guy,service an prices for all things FAL/L1A1.

As far as getting the pin out...flip it over and drive it the other
way. If that doesn't work, hit it harder. If that doesn't work, drill it out.

Don't worry, it will come out eventually. And CAI built a lot of good ones on Imbel uppers.

RHVEtte
02-16-2013, 21:16
Thanks! I was struggling through Numrich's catalog and making no progress. That's much better.

I was able to drift out the pin after all. Just needed a bigger hammer. Well, an actual hammer. Smacking a punch with pliers doesn't appear to be enough.

Got any advice for how to get the gas nut and muzzle brake off? One needs to come off for cleaning and the other I'd like to know how to remove in case I don't care for the current one and want to put the proper original brake back on.

ETA: Turns out, the best tool for getting the gas nut off is a bottle opener from a Swiss Army Knife. Who knew?

suburbanhillbilly
02-16-2013, 21:59
Remove the gas piston and spring first. You push in on the little detent and rotate the gas plug ( in front of the front sight) to release it. Keep it under control as you turn it or you will launch the piston accross the room. Keep your eyes away.

Screw the gas nut even farther onto the gas tube to give you some clearance at the gas block, then unscrew the gas tube from the receiver. Should come on out.

The muzzle device is a little tougher. If it was a standard metric combo device, it would simply unscrew ~ left hand threads, although all the ones I've dealt with needed to be heated red hot with a torch and then were still really hard to get off. Takes so much torque that you start to worry you're going to break something, then gives way with a bang.

Unfortunately, CAI may have cut the barrel and re-threaded to right hand threads/or not, and installed their own lame ass "muzzle brake".So you can't really be sure if it's L or R threads! Even worse, they may have also locked it in place using a blind pin, or simply silver soldered it on.Blind pins are drilled out, the hardest part is locating them.MAPP gas torch gets hot enough to melt silver solder.

These alternative,supposedly permanent attachments would have been to satisfy the Assault Weapon Ban which was in place from '94 to '04. It is nice to replace aftermarket muzzle junk with a real metric combo device.( Combo meaning it was a flash hider and also fit rifle grenades and bayos).Fals don't need muzzle brakes since their gas system helps control recoil.

Do you have any way of posting pictures of that muzzle device? That may help.

RHVEtte
02-16-2013, 22:11
I will as soon as I get the room back together. You never realize just how many crevices there are until a spring goes flying off into the aether.

RHVEtte
02-16-2013, 23:25
Here we go. It's some Tapco thing.231282

suburbanhillbilly
02-17-2013, 21:27
Looks like you'd be able to tell if they used a pin to secure it.
Remember: if it was built during the AWB, that non-evil flash hiding tapco muzzle thing was required by law to be "permanently" attached. So that meant a blind pin that could not be driven in and out easily, or silver soldering.

Pray that CAI did not actually weld it on. Although that is definitely a permanent way to attach it, CAI probably did not do that. Like I said before, MAPP gas will loosen silver solder.

The only bugaboo after that is figuring out if it still has the original left hand threads. I guess what I would be tempted to do, is use a dremel cut-off wheel to cut through that Tapco thingamabob almost to the threads and spread it open with a good whack with a cold chisel. That will spread it just enough to allow you to unscrew it. Just take your time and don't butcher up your barrel threads.

Haldor
02-19-2013, 21:16
http://www.gunthings.com/

Gas regulator springs - $4.00. Send Brad an e-mail to make sure he has it in stock first. I've bought a lot of stuff from him ~ great guy,service an prices for all things FAL/L1A1.

As far as getting the pin out...flip it over and drive it the other
way. If that doesn't work, hit it harder. If that doesn't work, drill it out.

Don't worry, it will come out eventually. And CAI built a lot of good ones on Imbel uppers.


Mine has been great.

Haldor
02-19-2013, 21:20
Looks like you'd be able to tell if they used a pin to secure it.
Remember: if it was built during the AWB, that non-evil flash hiding tapco muzzle thing was required by law to be "permanently" attached. So that meant a blind pin that could not be driven in and out easily, or silver soldering.

Pray that CAI did not actually weld it on. Although that is definitely a permanent way to attach it, CAI probably did not do that. Like I said before, MAPP gas will loosen silver solder.

The only bugaboo after that is figuring out if it still has the original left hand threads. I guess what I would be tempted to do, is use a dremel cut-off wheel to cut through that Tapco thingamabob almost to the threads and spread it open with a good whack with a cold chisel. That will spread it just enough to allow you to unscrew it. Just take your time and don't butcher up your barrel threads.

I am so glad mine is preban version. Came with the stock L1A1 flash hider. I got a great deal on an australian bayonet for mine also. $45 for an unissued L1A2 bayonet (still in the original sealed wrapping paper).

http://worldwarsurplus.com/product.sc;jsessionid=9B844C17821846CF3BB2507CEB7D1066.qscstrfrnt02?productId=88&categoryId=12

They have quite a few parts for FAL/L1A1s if you need them.

suburbanhillbilly
02-19-2013, 22:54
I am so glad mine is preban version. Came with the stock L1A1 flash hider. I got a great deal on an australian bayonet for mine also. $45 for an unissued L1A2 bayonet (still in the original sealed wrapping paper).

http://worldwarsurplus.com/product.sc;jsessionid=9B844C17821846CF3BB2507CEB7D1066.qscstrfrnt02?productId=88&categoryId=12

They have quite a few parts for FAL/L1A1s if you need them.
Thanks for the link! Will save that one.

My CAI "sporter" had the neutered barrel, so I bought a threading kit and re-threaded it myself.Then put on an inch
3 slot fh. After the ban expired,of course.:whistling: