Painting with a roller [Archive] - Glock Talk

PDA

View Full Version : Painting with a roller


nam02G
04-29-2013, 15:26
I'm in the process of painting the interior of a house that my family just moved into. It's going slower than I anticipated. One problem I'm having is that the roller cover keeps walking off the roller. I'm using good quality tools but it just won't stay in place. I have had this problem every time I have painted with a roller. Any suggestions for how to prevent this? It is a bit of a hassle to have to nudge the roller cover back in place every few minutes.

BEER
04-29-2013, 15:44
try zip-tieing it onto the frame somehow?

Russ in PA
04-29-2013, 15:51
I painted my last two houses from top to bottom, two coats, & never had that problem. Just used the standard rollers & frames from Home Depot.

Highspeedlane
04-29-2013, 15:56
You have a bum roller holder and need to get one with better tensioning. It will be worth it not to have to fight it. If anything, you should have the opposite problem and have to work to get the roller off.

JimmyRayBob
04-29-2013, 15:56
You need a different roller frame...try sherwin Williams if available.

Bushflyr
04-29-2013, 15:59
You're pushing too hard. It's squeezing the cover off the roller. You need to load up the roller with more paint and/or use a thicker nap. Also, if you paint from right to left point the roller left.
And you are brushing it out afterwards, right?

teumessian_fox
04-29-2013, 16:07
You need new gear. The quality of tools is directly dependant upon the amount you pay. In your case, go buy new rollers and cover at Sherwin Williams.

JimmyRayBob
04-29-2013, 16:12
Sherwin Williams might cost a few bucks more...but it is worth it. Plus, they really do have helpful, knowledgable people working there. Well worth the time and expense (and its really not that much more money, if any at all)

birda40
04-29-2013, 16:21
You're pushing too hard. It's squeezing the cover off the roller. You need to load up the roller with more paint and/or use a thicker nap. Also, if you paint from right to left point the roller left.
And you are brushing it out afterwards, right?

Ok , call me stupid... what do you mean, brushing it out afterwards

byf43
04-29-2013, 16:25
^^^What is said, above.

1. Quality tools. Buy once. Cry once.
2. Don't roll/push so hard. Let the roller do the work.
3. Keep a wet edge.



Last 'tip' from somebody that HATES to paint.
Do NOT use a paint pan!!!
Use a CLEAN 5 gallon bucket and a 'screen'.
Mix/pour your paint into the bucket, place screen into bucket (it locks onto the side) and paint from that.
500% faster process and clean-up.

I learned this from two guys at my sportsman's club. They were professional firefighters, but, did painting 'on the side' to pay for their hunting trips.

Fast. Real fast.
They moved furniture - painted 4 rooms - two coats. Ceilings. Walls. Trim. Doors. Less than 4 hours total time.
The absolute best paint work I've ever seen.

nam02G
04-29-2013, 16:57
You're pushing too hard. It's squeezing the cover off the roller. You need to load up the roller with more paint and/or use a thicker nap. Also, if you paint from right to left point the roller left.
And you are brushing it out afterwards, right?

I think you may be right about pushing too hard. I can't possibly load it up with more paint, the roller cover is dripping/on the verge of dripping.

I don't think it is an equipment quality issue. Like I said in the OP, I do have quality tools..

What is 'brushing out' I've never heard that term?

nam02G
04-29-2013, 17:00
^^^What is said, above.

Last 'tip' from somebody that HATES to paint.
Do NOT use a paint pan!!!
Use a CLEAN 5 gallon bucket and a 'screen'.
Mix/pour your paint into the bucket, place screen into bucket (it locks onto the side) and paint from that.
500% faster process and clean-up.

I learned this from two guys at my sportsman's club. They were professional firefighters, but, did painting 'on the side' to pay for their hunting trips.

Fast. Real fast.
They moved furniture - painted 4 rooms - two coats. Ceilings. Walls. Trim. Doors. Less than 4 hours total time.
The absolute best paint work I've ever seen.

I already use the 5 gallon bucket and screen, I hate hassling with the paint pan.

I would love to see those guys in action. :wow: It takes me about 3 hours to paint one room, one coat, walls and ceilings. No trim or doors.

byf43
04-29-2013, 17:11
I already use the 5 gallon bucket and screen, I hate hassling with the paint pan.

I would love to see those guys in action. :wow: It takes me about 3 hours to paint one room, one coat, walls and ceilings. No trim or doors.

These two guys were fast!

Unfortunately, they've both retired, and one of them passed away last year in a kayaking accident, in Pennsylvania. (Kayak turned upside down, and he couldn't get out.)

The other has retired to South Carolina.

I was amazed at how fast they were.
I've got 'raised' six-panel interior doors, and they taught me how to paint each side in less than 3 minutes. (Tip: 3" roller, followed with a 2-1/2" brush!) Amazing.
Before that, it took me about 20 minutes per side.:rofl:

nam02G
04-29-2013, 17:18
These two guys were fast!

Unfortunately, they've both retired, and one of them passed away last year in a kayaking accident, in Pennsylvania. (Kayak turned upside down, and he couldn't get out.)

The other has retired to South Carolina.

I was amazed at how fast they were.
I've got 'raised' six-panel interior doors, and they taught me how to paint each side in less than 3 minutes. (Tip: 3" roller, followed with a 2-1/2" brush!) Amazing.
Before that, it took me about 20 minutes per side.:rofl:

Door in place or taken off? I think I'm going to end up doing all the doors before things are done. They need it.

GlocknSpiehl
04-29-2013, 17:20
If your roller slips on and off easily, with little effort or force, your tool is bad and needs to be replaced. You should have to use a bit of force to get the roller on and off.

Also, if you are using latex paint, you shjould really be using a sheepskin roller cover to get the best results.

byf43
04-29-2013, 17:29
Door in place or taken off? I think I'm going to end up doing all the doors before things are done. They need it.

Doors in place.

They used a 'wedge' and open the door about halfway, then put the wedge under the edge of the door, under the latch.

A large panel of cardboard slipped under the door keeps paint off the floor.

Use the 3" roller and follow the 'grain' in the door.
Vertical pieces ('stiles') go vertically.
Horizontal pieces ('rails') go horizontally.
Any of the surfaces in the 'raised panel' are done the same, with the raised panel being done last, and done vertically.
"Chase" all surfaces with the brush, going 'with the grain', as you did with the roller.

Do the edges of the door, last.
I usually do all of the door 'faces' first (got 5 doors - do all 5 'faces'), then go back and do the edges of the doors, being careful not to get paint on the 'face' of the doors.

bigchuck83
04-29-2013, 19:31
Make sure the frame portion of the roller is on the trailing edge, I.E. if going from left to right make sure frame is on the left side. I would suggest crossing out your work, one coat vertical and the other horizontal. That is what was standard at the company i worked for when painting offices and the results were always excellent. for doors you can use a good brush or go to Sherwin Williams and get some of the six inch "mohair" rollers. They work great on doors.

Red Stick
04-29-2013, 19:46
For 9" rollers I like the "Purdy" brand cagless frames these days. Sheepskin covers or the "Purdy colossus" covers are the way to go.

For really fast painting step up to an 18" roller, or an airless...

Dennis in MA
04-29-2013, 19:52
I already use the 5 gallon bucket and screen, I hate hassling with the paint pan.

I would love to see those guys in action. :wow: It takes me about 3 hours to paint one room, one coat, walls and ceilings. No trim or doors.

Whoa. That's slow. I can do 2 coats with trim in that time. I love to paint. Mindless. Cutting in with a good Purdy angle brush and no tape.

I do cheat and have one of those mini rollers so I can get as close as possible to the trim with the look of napped paint instead of brushed.

THEPOPE
04-29-2013, 19:58
AFTER you get a decent roller frame....Get yerself a good, strong plastic pan....decent cutting brush, 3 or 4 incher...

I use a 4 foot step-ladder, pour enough in the pan so as not to spill easily....

I work the cutting in, just previous to roller...that is, I do the corners of the wall, next to the ceiling, and any trim I want edges, to about an inch from the edge....

Then I z-roll horizontal, and finish the stroke with vertical rolls, keeping the un-painted area on my right, could be done the other way, too...

but never leave an unfinished wall get dry before the next section gets started, and paint all the way to the edge of next wall.

This way, you won't get that streaking look when dry, where the paint may have gotten doubled up on the over-lap.

I hope I explained this correctly...

I don't use a drop-cloth, but you may want to, I am an expert...

out, I am, am I ??......:cool:

vikingsoftpaw
04-29-2013, 22:54
Go to a professional paint store and buy 18" rollers, large pale and extension pole. Those roller covers are held in at both ends. The job will go 3x as fast with one.

Angry Fist
04-29-2013, 23:40
Wrap electrical tape on the frame, enough for the nap to fit tight. If you don't like fuzzies coming off the nap, wrap it in one piece of masking tape, squeeze it, then pull the tape off. Purdy is the only brush I will trust.

TK-421
04-30-2013, 00:22
Have you tried wrapping the roller in tape to give it a thicker diameter and make a snugger fit?

byf43
04-30-2013, 06:17
Whoa. That's slow. I can do 2 coats with trim in that time. I love to paint. Mindless. Cutting in with a good Purdy angle brush and no tape.

I do cheat and have one of those mini rollers so I can get as close as possible to the trim with the look of napped paint instead of brushed.

Dennis, I've got several bedrooms, two bathrooms, a hallway and stairs that need to be painted.
Let me know when to expect you.
Food. Bed. Whatever you want to drink. You got it.

I HATE TO PAINT!!!!!!!!!:steamed:

:rofl:



I don't use a drop-cloth, but you may want to, I am an expert...



I am NO expert! I use TWO dropcloths!!! Nice, big, thick, professional grade drop-cloths!!!!!!!!

LEO/Dad
04-30-2013, 06:26
Pull the tensioning springs out on the roller. This will help the roller stay on. Works for me. Cheap roller.

RCP
04-30-2013, 06:31
I don't mind the painting part I hate all the masking of window sills and baseboards

G29Reload
04-30-2013, 09:01
Its sounds simple but upon taking the recommendation it was amazing and dispropotionately added to the speed...

Get an 18" roller. For any sizeable room.

Worth it.

smokeross
04-30-2013, 11:04
Its sounds simple but upon taking the recommendation it was amazing and dispropotionately added to the speed...

Get an 18" roller. For any sizeable room.

Worth it.
But then you need a BIGGER bucket.

Angry Fist
04-30-2013, 14:12
Its sounds simple but upon taking the recommendation it was amazing and dispropotionately added to the speed...

Get an 18" roller. For any sizeable room.

Worth it.
I only use an 18 when spraying/backrolling, or floor coatings. It doesn't get close enough to the inside corners for a high quality job, or one with smooth walls. Then, you could always use a corner roller. But for a quick job, they are faster. Smoke, they make 18" roller tubs, and are handy.