36 problem-not sure how to describe it

[JFP]

My 36 (flawless in shooting with now over 1216 rounds since I bought her in November of 2002 other than initial limp wristing through the first 300 rounds) has developed (or I have caused it) the following situation (I am not sure it is really a problem, but it is a little annoying).

I have been dry firing it since I got it (have no idea how much, but at least as many times as I have shot a round through her I have dry fired her).

About 2 months ago I started dry fire practicing holding the trigger back at the rear most fire position after firing, in order to practice trigger reset fire and improve double tap time (I am not sure now if this is OK to do and this is my first question). I have been doing this with both my G36 and G30. I carry the 36 daily and shoot it and practice (live and dry) at least twice as much as the 30.

About a 2 weeks ago the 36 started doing the following (I hope I can explain this well enough).

I dry fire, hold the trigger at the back after firing with my trigger finger, rack the slide to reset trigger (WITHOUT LETTING THE TRIGGER TO GO FORWARD) and once this is done, I release the trigger far enough to hear the reset click and fire again. AM I HURTING THE GUN BY DOING THIS????? I ask because after seven weeks of doing this (once or twice a week maybe 20 dryfires each time), the slide is now not fully returning forward. It will stop just 1/4 inche before locking forward at the normal position, and will not travel the final 1/4 inch until I start release the trigger forward (way before the trigger resets, the smallest forward movement will allow the slide to complete its forward journey). I I take the slide back to slide lock and then release the slide lock (something I never do, but experimented when this problem surfaced) then the force of the slide being released forward cures the problem, and it does not ocur when I am at the range practicing with live rounds and trigger reset.

It is not a recoil problem as it happens with the stock and a Wolff non captive with 17lbs and 19lbs I just received got as a gift from a fellow glocker. It is also not a magazine problem as it does it with or without one in place and with all of my 10 mags.

Sorry to trouble you all with this long winded story, but I live in Panama and we have no glock armorers here (which is good in that I have learned to take her full apart and know how the gun works but bad because sometimes the experience of a knowledgeable person is missed). I just want to know what if anything is wrong with my favorite gun, and if it is my actions that are causing this.

Thx!

Note this does not happen with my G30>

[Eins36]

The G36 is my only gun and I have about as many rounds through it as you have (1400 or so). More than 1400 dryfires, and most of those with the same procedure as you describe (holding the trigger back till the slide is cycled).

I don't KNOW for sure whether this procedure is "approved" but assumed it is. No odd reactions such as the ones described by you have ocurred on my G36 to date.

Don't know if this helps ;c

[JFP]

Thx Eins.

By elimination of what may or may not be causing this (as I said in my first post, dont think its a recoil spring/rod or a magazine issue), I notice that the trigger bar (where it hooks upward after the first curve from the trigger rearwards--and where it touches the firing pin) is the part where the "resistance" seems to ocur as it slides over the firing pin, and this does not let the slide go fully back to normal and keeps it a 1/4 inch back.

If this is the problem, how can I verify this. I have taken my G36 and my G30 fully apart twice (once out of curiosity and the second time to do a .25 cent polish job) and have not seen anything unusual (i.e., anything bent or cracked that should not have been). Could the firing spring safety spring be causing this?? Am stilled stumped, and since in order to get replacement parts I have to buy them in the US sight unseen for shipment here, I can just go to my local armorer (not that there is one here) to try before I buy.

Thx again to all and any for your help and insight

[Eins36]

I think you really need the help of an armorer or gunsmith (what is the difference, anyway?). Perhaps a post in the gunsmithing section of this board (or General Glocking?) will produce qualified responses if you can't get them here after a while. Good luck!

[Andy]

JFP,

Check that the firing pin safety button moves freely in the slide's cavity. Next make sure the spring is seated fully in the button. A little twist is needed to get it seated, not just loose inside the slide cavity.

You can also add some copper-colored anti-seize which the factory also uses inside this cavity.

[Sentry]

It's fine to hold the trigger back, it's an approved procedure and the best way for followup shots. Try holding your muzzle straight up in the air, pull the slide all the way back and let forward right before the barrel would move up to lock up. If it goes into battery, than your spring is fine and nothing is wrong with that. Are you using snap caps? This can happen when using them. If you follow the procedure I detailed and it passes, then I don't think anything is wrong other than your spring wearing out slightly which is normal.

[Sentry]

Originally posted by Andy
You can also add some copper-colored anti-seize which the factory also uses inside this cavity.

He apparently practices frequently, thus a product made for a gun sitting on the shelf for months and years at a time is not necessary. And putting lube, or anti-seize, or anything of the sort on a point not approved is a sure way to cause problems.

[ipscshooter]

If I am understanding your post correctly, it sounds like you are letting the trigger reset BEFORE the slide is all the way forward. If that's true you are throwing stuff out of sync i.e. trigger bar, sear, etc. The gun doesn't fire that way. Let the slide go all the way forward before you let the trigger reset.

If I missed something in your explanation, I apologize.

[ipscshooter]

After re-reading your post, I think that I have to agree with ANDY. There seems to be a problem with the firing pin safety plunger or maybe the way the extractor is installed. Hope you didn't lose the spring :) .

If it seems to fire and eject ok, then it's probably the safety plunger/spring. Maybe the spring isn't in far enough, but the force of actual firing is enough to overcome it. Might just be a bit of dirt stuck in there not allowing the plunger to move freely. The spring may have broken. That's where I would start looking.

As for your 1st question. It is perfectly fine to do as you are doing with the dry firing and the reset of the trigger.

[Sentry]

The gun will function with a broken spring, or no spring in it. Since his trigger is pulled back the striker safety would be depress anyways, so that wouldn't be affecting an engagement issue. The gun could also be needing cleaned, it should be cleaned and oiled properly.

[JFP]

Many thanks guys for sharing your great advice.

I performed Sentry's point up drill and still NADA, which convinced me the problem might lie in the firing pin, so then I did what Andy said and Hooray!!!!!! situation fixed!!!!!!

Took our the firing spring safety and made sure the spring was on right and it fixed the problem. I am thinkig this was due to carelessness on my parte when I took the gun apart for the full internal polish, I must have not seated the spring back correctly.

To Eins 36, Sentry, Andy and Ipscshooter thank you again for taking time out to give a fellow Glock fan a hand. Who says you need to live within five hundred miles of the nearest Glock Armorer when you have GLOCKTALK!!!:)

[Andy]

JFP,

Glad it worked out. Next time you detail strip the slide just leave the spring on the button to keep things simpler.

[ipscshooter]

Good Deal...glad all worked out ok.