Why not just increase mainspring for 10mm or .45 Super?

[rsilvers]

Rather than bringing the recoil spring up high, it would seem it is better to change the mainspring. I am new to this, but think that the mainspring should be used to return the slide and strip a new round, but not used to absorb high recoil forces because it will just regenerate them on the return and batter the frame when the slide closes.

So it would appear that if one wanted to make a 10mm or .45 Super which could shoot hot ammo, it would not be a good idea to simply put in a 24# or higher recoil spring. This is because while the spring will keep the slide from battering the frame on the way back, it will simply batter it when it returns forward with the same speed that it started back! The better solution is to get a firing pin stop (the part the rides the hammer back) which contacts the hammer as low as possible. This will delay unlocking of the action and make it harder for the slide to push the hammer back, thus slowering rear slide velocity. This would allow one to use a 20# recoil spring. Likewise, one could increase the mainspring lbs to also make it harder for the slide to go backward fast. This would not have the downside of making the slide return fast, since the sear would catch the hammer which stays cocked. So rather than tune the recoil spring for how far the brass ejects, one could first pick their moderate recoil spring, and instead tune the mainspring.

[Willard]

You know, when I first read your title, I thought "What's theis guy talkin' about? Everyone knows you increase the recoil spring." After reading the entirity of your post, I thought "Hey, that sounds like a pretty good idea!"

I'm sure that somewhere, someone has tried this. Maybe you should post this question on a 1911 forum.

Pretty good example of thinking outside the box!

[WalterGA]

Originally posted by rsilvers
it will simply batter it when it returns forward with the same speed that it started back!

Your general theory sounds fine, all right, until one reads the above quote and realizes that you're coming to conclusions not based on a sound premise.

[Wildpony]

REVOLUTIONARY, I say, REVOLUTIONARY :) . Great Idea, jutt have a local machineist mill you out a new pin-block with a bulge in it way down low and also notch the hammer so the bulge wouldnt prevent the hammer from contacting the firing pin. Then add a super heavy mainspring. I think I understand your theory and it makes sense. I dare you to give it a try. You realy may be on to something and it just might work.:cool: If you try it be sure to let us know how it works.

[rsilvers]

I did not invent this. I just don't understand why everyone does not do it as common practice for shooting very hot loads, and I am hoping someone can let me know if there is some downside I am not aware of.

EGW makes a 'square bottom' firing pin stop for the 1911 which this feature.

[Critter]

[list=1]
Increased pressure on hammer
Increased wear on sear nose and hammer hooks
Increased trigger pull
Increased pressure on primers
[/list=1]

Those are just a few things I can come up with off of the top of my head.

[rsilvers]

Ah. Ok. But the firing pin stop would not have any of those effects. So maybe the goal would be, when shooting 10mm or .45 Super, to:

1. First get an EGW firing pin stop.
2. Then bumb up the mainspring just 1 or 2 steps up from normal but not too much.
3. Then, when all of that is fine, finally pick the best recoil spring based on how far the brass goes.

[Critter]

Factory max in most cases is 23lbs, a lot of manufacturers will go down a little, but I would highly advise anyone to be sertain whatthey are doing before they try that and never go below 19lbs. You can go lower than the 23 safely since the goemetry of many hammers has changed since the original design more towards the GoldCup hole placement. Increasing the weight of the mainspring has way too many downsides, none of them that I would risk on a customers pistol.

[WalterGA]

Permit me to clarify: The slide, regardless of recoil spring weight, does not return at the same speed with which it was forced rearward.

[DBR]

To the best of my memory these are the things that were done by Gary Hindeman (SP) on my 5" 1911 45 Super conversion:

1) full length custom guide rod with hard buffer between dual end plates
2) dual counter wound recoil springs est 32#
3) special recoil spring bushing for the spring setup
4) heavy firing pin spring
5) heavy (23# or 25#) main spring
6) almost square bottom, tightly fit firing pin stop
7) tight fit extractor with higher than normal tension
8) tuned ejector

[rsilvers]

Wolff lists the hammer spring for a Colt at 23lbs standard. They offer 'extra power' ones at 25, 26, 28, 30, and 34.

So presumably, there are people who want to change from 23 to 34.

What I am thinking is, why did the Delta Elite also use the 23 as did the .45 1911? Perhaps Colt should have used a 25 or above.

Yes Walter, you are right. The slide only slams home with the force that the spring would drive it if you activated the slide release. But I can say that is pretty forceful with the 24# spring I just put in my Delta. It is hard to rack the slide. I am thinking that I would never want to go above 24 and would like to be at 20 or 22 with it. Perhaps changing the hammer spring from 23 to 26 would be good along with the EGW firing pin stop.

[rick458]

Well it is MUCH easier to change the recoil spring, than the Mainspring.
But if you are stepping up to a .45 Super a little tinkering wont put you off.

[tackdriver]

Racking the slide won't be much fun, or easy on your hands.