How to get into 80% firearm completion? Good books? [Archive] - Glock Talk

View Full Version : How to get into 80% firearm completion? Good books?


chiefscott1701
05-28-2005, 22:13
Hi--

I was just reading through sites on finishing 80% firearm kits from places like CNCGunsmithing. They all sell 80% receivers for an AR-15, and the bits required to complete them. Looks like a fun project--but I don't know what tools I need apart from the jigs they sell to actually do a good job of it. Can anybody recommend a book on the topic or a good website? I saw this from PaladinPress:

http://www.paladin-press.com/detail.aspx?ID=1139

But don't know if an 80 page book can be any good. Any help is appreciated!

kestrou
05-31-2005, 20:39
ChiefScott,

I'm sure you've already been to Roderus and ar15.com - at least you better have been, if you're wanting to do this.

Here's a link to a website of my first 80% AR build: http://www.kestrou.com/bsc.htm. I've done quite a few more since then, but never gone back and cleaned up the website for the finishing details. Hopefully there's some details there worth reading.

It's certainly a do-able project and one that you'll enjoy if you have the patience and very limited mechanical ability.

kestrou

RMTactical
06-01-2005, 02:12
kestrou,

That's kinda neat. I apologize, I didn't go through your whole website (yet!), but in case it's not addressed, I am curious, how do the lowers hold up? I am suspicious on how they would hold up under long term and heavy use. Without the anodizing process, the aluminum is much softer. I have considered doing the 80% lower thing but I am only concerned about the anodizing.

kestrou
06-01-2005, 12:55
GL,

Finishing/anodizing is certainly a serious consideration! I've seen guys do "garage anodizing", but wasn't too keen on having a vat of boiling battery acid in my garage, so I used spray-on/bake-on stuff from Brownells and it sucked! On my list of projects to do is bead-blast that stuff off and then find some other option - may even decide to boil battery acid in my garage! ;f

I have probably 1,000 rounds through one of my lowers and it's holding up "OK". One problem that I had is the front pivot pin detent hole (has a long spring and little plunger in it) "stripped out" - had to get a different kind of front pivot pin that doesn't use the spring and plunger. In short, for a SHTF or TEOTWAWKI gun, it's certainly functional, but don't be looking for it at Camp Perry! ^c

kestrou

RMTactical
06-01-2005, 15:32
Cool.

If it weren't for the anodizing process that needed to take place I would be all over this.

Your website was cool and had a lot of good info, thanks.

Rob72
06-01-2005, 16:09
Gorelicks, check with a local coating shop. They use Teflon, ceramic and anodized parts in racing engines/bodies, so I've had a couple of things done that way. (Not hard anodized, but they do offer it, in OKC)

RMTactical
06-01-2005, 18:04
Originally posted by Rob72
Gorelicks, check with a local coating shop. They use Teflon, ceramic and anodized parts in racing engines/bodies, so I've had a couple of things done that way. (Not hard anodized, but they do offer it, in OKC)

The only problem is, once you pay for the anodizing, you don't really save too much money...

Washington,D.C.
06-01-2005, 19:20
A lot of those cast 80% AR lowers have warped magwells.It's best to start with an 80% finished forging but a lot more expensive and if you mess it up you're out more money.The castings are great for practice and the warped magwells can usually be opened to accept a mag.Soft(color) anodizing doesn't add anything but color.Hard anodizing would protect the finish best.It's not required and there are many finishes which look very close to it in color.A lot of aftermarket commercial receivers aren't hard anodized.There are receivers made from forgings,castings,extrusions and machined from billet.You can even get 80% cast stainless steel lowers.They make lowers from plastic these days so it's not a high stressed part.Some of the aluminum I've seen has been 7075,6061 and 6066.I've even seen old M-16 lowers cut in two ans welded back together.The earlest M-16's were 6061 which welds okay.The later and current ones are 7075 which is stronger but not as weldable.I have a finish product that colors really well.I'll have to pull it out and see what it's called.Much easier than hard anodizing.

kestrou
06-01-2005, 22:37
Originally posted by GoreLicks
The only problem is, once you pay for the anodizing, you don't really save too much money...

GL - don't go thinking making 80% receivers is a money-saving operation! ;f For the price of a cheap 80% aluminum receiver, you can outright buy a decent finished receiver. Consider that you'll invest heavily in tools, time & jigs I guess my 80% receivers each cost hundreds of dollars. The only upside is: nobody knows how many I have or where they're at! :cool:

kestrou

RMTactical
06-02-2005, 02:38
Originally posted by kestrou
GL - don't go thinking making 80% receivers is a money-saving operation! ;f For the price of a cheap 80% aluminum receiver, you can outright buy a decent finished receiver. Consider that you'll invest heavily in tools, time & jigs I guess my 80% receivers each cost hundreds of dollars. The only upside is: nobody knows how many I have or where they're at! :cool:

kestrou

Any man worth his salt should have those tools anyways. Lowers are just an excuse to use them!! Hey, the money thing is something I tell my wife in order to justify my actions, and buying tools!! ;)

kestrou
06-02-2005, 07:52
GL - I used that same "money saving" line on my wife - but she caught on pretty quick when I started carrying armloads of upper receivers back from gunshows! ;f

kestrou

RMTactical
06-02-2005, 13:44
Originally posted by kestrou
GL - I used that same "money saving" line on my wife - but she caught on pretty quick when I started carrying armloads of upper receivers back from gunshows! ;f

kestrou

Don't take that stuff through the front door for all to see man!!

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