1911 grip screw bushing removal

[njl]

What's supposed to be involved in removing 1911 grip screw bushings? Several of mine have come loose. I tried unscrewing the loosest, and though it rotates, it doesn't appear to be backing out.

[VN350X10]

The grip screw bushings are a very fine thread, and it's possible to strip them in the frame if you overtighten a grip screw...I know, because I've done it !

After they are threaded into the frame, they are (usually) staked in place with a special tool. If they are stripped & staked, they won't come out in a normal fashion.
Find a 'smith who specializes in 1911's...there's a lot of them out there, or look thru Brownell's to see what tools are needed to replace them.
If they are stripped, Brownell's is the only source I know of for the oversize bushing/tap sets to properly repair them.



uncle albert

[njl]

I think SA overtightened the grip screws when they put the original grips on. I've swapped grips several times, and the first time I removed them, I had the distinct impression that the bushings were turning with the screws at first. I guess it's going back to Springfield warranty service again. Too bad it can't rack up frequent flyer miles. It'd have a bunch by now.

[Denny]

They sell a special diver to remove and install the bushing. when I first started "working" on 1911 I used a screw driver and messed up a bunch. Buy the driver. Are you having problems with your Springfield. My TRP has been back to the shop 3 imes for various things

[jcmios]

If it is striped it is easy to fix. Secure the gun in a drill press or mill and drill out the center of the bushing so only a thin amount of metal is left, then with a needle nose pliers grip one side of the bushing and twist it, it should break and come out. Then order the over sized bushings and tap from Brownells, run the tap through the damaged bushing hole and insert the new bushings. Use Loc Tite 222 to secure them. Also order the proper screw driver bit for 1911 bushings.

Jim

[njl]

Silly question, but if you end up with the same problem after using oversize bushings, then what?

I'm either going to have a local smith do this, or send it back to Springfield and let them deal with it. I'm starting to think my gun must have been built on a Monday.

[jcmios]

Don't over tighten it again and with the use of Loc Tite 222 they will not come loose unless you want them to with a bushing driver. You can also put a small amount of grease or anti seize compound on the grip screws so if you over tighten them they will not get stuck in the bushing.

Jim

[VN350X10]

Springfield will make it right, as long as you don't mind the shipping & turn-around time.

I've never had this problem on any of my Glocks...(HAHAHAHAHA)

shoot safe

uncle albert

[njl]

I just spoke to springfield and they told me the bushings are not threaded/screwed in, but are peened and glued. I told the customer service rep that disagreed with what I'd read and asked that she double check. She put me on hold for a bit, and said they were definitely not threaded.

They're going to send me a new set of bushings, and I guess I'll see if a gunsmith friend can get me fixed up.

[jcmios]

Thans news to me, every SA I own and have ever worked on be it carbon, stainless or alloy have all had conventional screw bushings.

Jim

[njl]

Maybe its a recent change. We'll find out when I get the replacement parts and see the smith. I mentioned this to him after talking to SA, and at least he'd heard of 1911's being done either way and said that he had the tools for this type.

[VN350X10]

Sounds like another way to cheapen up a pistol. J.M.Brownings original design for the 1911 was with threaded bushings....sometimes the old ways ARE best !





uncle albert

[Marksman44]

Brownells sells the driver bits especially sized for removal of standard grip bushings and thin grip bushings.

[njl]

SA was just being silly. Both the old ones and replacement set they sent me do thread into the frame. I managed to get the originals out. AFAICT, they didn't use any thread locker, but did try to stake them after screwing them in. The staking just doesn't seem to have taken very well.

I see you recommend Loctite 222, but that seems to be a particularly weak threadlocker. Is there a reason not to use 271?

[photobybill]

I bought a new 1911 WWII stainless and had nothing but problems. My grips screws also spun. But I was really shocked when the front sight fell off. Worst customer service ever. I Complained to the cust serv manager until she bought back the gun, tax and all. Went out and picked up a Colt model 80 and love it.

[njl]

Originally posted by photobybill
I bought a new 1911 WWII stainless and had nothing but problems. My grips screws also spun. But I was really shocked when the front sight fell off. Worst customer service ever. I Complained to the cust serv manager until she bought back the gun, tax and all. Went out and picked up a Colt model 80 and love it.

What brand is "1911 WWII stainless"?

My experience with SA has been outstanding customer service (though this last time I did get bad info from them over the phone), but quality control / assembly seems to be quite lacking. For what's been spent next day airing my gun back and forth to SA twice, they could have paid someone a bit more competent to assemble and test it before it left the factory the first time. I suppose they still end up ahead because not all of them turn out to be lemons and even of those that are, not all of them are discovered as they either get shot very little or go straight to a smith for customization.

[newservicecolt]

Locktite 271 is OK but you may need to use heat to break it.
I don't care for my bushings to ever come out except in the shop so I solder them in place. Fini, never come loose.
BTW you can also do the same with plunger spring housings.


NSC

[njl]

Originally posted by newservicecolt
Locktite 271 is OK but you may need to use heat to break it.
I don't care for my bushings to ever come out except in the shop so I solder them in place. Fini, never come loose.
BTW you can also do the same with plunger spring housings.


NSC

How exactly do you do that? I don't want these ever to come loose again on their own, so the idea of 271 needing a lighter or torch to break it free is fine by me. My concern now is that I may have flattened the frame's threads a bit when removing the staked in original bushings. Can I force in the new ones, or do I need to have someone clean up the threads with a tap first?

[photobybill]

njl:
My 1911 wwII stainless is a springfield, stainless, wwII replica.

[njl]

Originally posted by photobybill
njl:
My 1911 wwII stainless is a springfield, stainless, wwII replica.

A friend of mine bought a Cold Gold Cup not long after I got my Loaded. He's had no problems and keeps telling me I should have bought a Colt.

[W Turner]

I had the same problem with my Loaded Lightweight.

Actually the bottom bushing on the left side (mag release side) had loosened just enough to allow the left grip to move back and forth. I took the grips off to inspect it and the bushings came off with them. Once I was able to get the bushings loose, I just screwed them back in using red loctite. I know this is one of the stronger versions, but that is the way I wanted it. If that bushing comes loose again, I will send it back to Springfield. What concerns me is that the one bushing that worked loose had actually worn the threads in the frame enough to make it tedious when re-installing that particular bushing.

Bull

[newservicecolt]

NJL,
You may have to chase it out with the proper tap (available from Brownells) but generally you can get them started back in place even with the boogered up threads. Have to play wit it a bit and hold your mouth just right.

NSC

[njl]

Anyone want to lend me the tap? I hate to spend $30 on a specialty tool I'm (hopefully) only going to use once.

[Mail Clerk]

Originally posted by njl
What's supposed to be involved in removing 1911 grip screw bushings? Several of mine have come loose. I tried unscrewing the loosest, and though it rotates, it doesn't appear to be backing out.


njl,

Keep turning that screw and see if it does indeed come out! IF your threads are indeed striped you'll have to buy some new "oversize" bushings from "Brownells" and have your smith retap the frame for the new one. Once that's done I'm loctite them all. You can have your smith stake them in BUT that'll be a permanent deal. Personally I'd loctite them with some of the blue version. This way if your considering customizing in the future you can do it by removing them with a screw driver.

Mail Clerk

[njl]

Originally posted by Mail Clerk
njl,

Keep turning that screw and see if it does indeed come out! IF your threads are indeed striped you'll have to buy some new "oversize" bushings from "Brownells" and have your smith retap the frame for the new one. Once that's done I'm loctite them all. You can have your smith stake them in BUT that'll be a permanent deal. Personally I'd loctite them with some of the blue version. This way if your considering customizing in the future you can do it by removing them with a screw driver.

Mail Clerk

I eventually did get them all out. Springfield sent me a new set of bushings, and with my fingers, I can only get them about half way screwed in. I've ordered a bushing driver tip from Brownells a couple days ago.