View Full Version : making your own oil anyone???
henchmen77
08-13-2005, 15:43
I used a old bottle of G-lube and cut it with some mobil-1 I had 5-30 and Lucas oil stablizer anyone have a mix they use and like??
Been thinking GTX with Lucas would work great to anyone have thougts?
Jake-Gallows
08-13-2005, 17:20
Why would you make your own when you can buy it at the local Wal-Mart, or any gun store in the world?
henchmen77
08-13-2005, 18:58
becuase sometimes you can make something as good if not better and do it for less over time. I just wanted to see if anyone had a mix they use thats all.
Jake-Gallows
08-13-2005, 19:45
I understand the cost factor. And I am not trying to bust your chops about it or anything. I am just wondering how you know it works better than say Break Free or CLP?
SlammedDime
08-13-2005, 19:50
Originally posted by Jake-Gallows
I understand the cost factor. And I am not trying to bust your chops about it or anything. I am just wondering how you know it works better than say Break Free or CLP? Because he's not making a CLP... he's making a lubricant. Which means he uses a solvent to clean, and if he desired, a protectant to protect. The 'problem' (and I use that term loosely, because breakfree, for example, is a good product), with CLP's, is that they do all, but do not do all as well as a product made for a single purpose could do.
Jake-Gallows
08-13-2005, 20:58
I understand what you are saying about CLP. But I still don't think you understand what I am asking. Why TRY to make something that MIGHT or MIGHT NOT work better than a product that you can buy off the shelf and you know it WILL work. If you want an oil, then buy a brand name gun oil, why take the chance on trying to make something?
SlammedDime
08-13-2005, 21:31
Originally posted by Jake-Gallows
I understand what you are saying about CLP. But I still don't think you understand what I am asking. Why TRY to make something that MIGHT or MIGHT NOT work better than a product that you can buy off the shelf and you know it WILL work. If you want an oil, then buy a brand name gun oil, why take the chance on trying to make something? I see what you're sayin. I agree. There are qualified individuals that could (and have) make their own oil, but for the better part of most of us, just about an ol' oil will do... probably even down to I can't believe its not butter. lol.
henchmen77
08-13-2005, 21:46
I just thought I would give it a try most gun oils are the same as motor oil less you go with gun butter or miltec-1. So I had some oil G-lube left and cut it with 5-30 mobil-1 and some lucas heavy duty oil stablizer I had, and the stuff seems to work as good as anything else I have used.
Just wanted to see if anyone else like using there own mix over buying something off the shelf.
Same as cleaning solvents most smiths just use break cleaner to clean with over buy other top end products.
Jake-Gallows
08-13-2005, 22:21
Originally posted by henchmen77
I just thought I would give it a try most gun oils are the same as motor oil less you go with gun butter or miltec-1. So I had some oil G-lube left and cut it with 5-30 mobil-1 and some lucas heavy duty oil stablizer I had, and the stuff seems to work as good as anything else I have used.
Just wanted to see if anyone else like using there own mix over buying something off the shelf.
Same as cleaning solvents most smiths just use break cleaner to clean with over buy other top end products.
True, but break cleaner and most solvents are doing the same thing, removing carbon, and other fouling.
My questions is this. I know that some gun oils do a better job at keeping dirt from building up...sort of repelling it, but motor oil doesn't do that. Actually it does the opposite, it cathces crap and carries it to the filter. So how do you know that you are doing something good for the weapon that your life may depend on?
henchmen77
08-14-2005, 09:08
CLP does the samething as motor oil does.
Jake-Gallows
08-14-2005, 10:01
LOL....forgive me for using the CLP name in this. It seems that everyone is hung up on the CLP part of my question. I didn't use the CLP name because I like the product, actually I don't even USE it. I just used that particular brand name for no particular reason...ok.. I don't use it, I do not like it, and there are dozens, upon dozens of other oils out there that I could have named. So, let us just use "Brand X" instead of CLP, shall we?
Now, tell me how you are protecting your weapon better using your own cocktail of oils than you would be if you were using "Brand X" when "Brand X" is designed just for guns, and it does something that motor oil does not. That is all I am asking, and so far you haven't given me a reason. So, I will ask again......Why??
Do a search for "Ed's Red."
http://www.building-tux.com/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm
Essentially, it is:
1 part Dexron ATF
1 part Kerosene
1 part Mineral spirits
1 part Acetone
Bud
henchmen77
08-14-2005, 14:54
Originally posted by Jake-Gallows
LOL....forgive me for using the CLP name in this. It seems that everyone is hung up on the CLP part of my question. I didn't use the CLP name because I like the product, actually I don't even USE it. I just used that particular brand name for no particular reason...ok.. I don't use it, I do not like it, and there are dozens, upon dozens of other oils out there that I could have named. So, let us just use "Brand X" instead of CLP, shall we?
Now, tell me how you are protecting your weapon better using your own cocktail of oils than you would be if you were using "Brand X" when "Brand X" is designed just for guns, and it does something that motor oil does not. That is all I am asking, and so far you haven't given me a reason. So, I will ask again......Why??
Brand X is still made from the same thing as motor oil most gun oil is just mineral base stock.
Most gun oils out there you can get the same protect fom motor oil, gun oil is just to lube the parts same as 5-30 if anything you get more out of say mobil-1 then you do most gun oils out there.
The only lube I would say that is different is miltec-1 and butch's oil most others are just oil in a bottle like a motor oil.
I like to mix up and try to make my own I find that mobil-1 works better to keep rust off and lubes as good as most gun oil but adding lucas oil stabilizer makes the parts flow better and protect even better.
And lets look at the temps in a motor and a handgun there not close and motor oil holds up in a motor, and holds up even better on handgun parts sometimes much better then some gun oils out there.
SlammedDime
08-14-2005, 15:11
Originally posted by henchmen77
Brand X is still made from the same thing as motor oil most gun oil is just mineral base stock.
Most gun oils out there you can get the same protect fom motor oil, gun oil is just to lube the parts same as 5-30 if anything you get more out of say mobil-1 then you do most gun oils out there.
The only lube I would say that is different is miltec-1 and butch's oil most others are just oil in a bottle like a motor oil.
I like to mix up and try to make my own I find that mobil-1 works better to keep rust off and lubes as good as most gun oil but adding lucas oil stabilizer makes the parts flow better and protect even better.
And lets look at the temps in a motor and a handgun there not close and motor oil holds up in a motor, and holds up even better on handgun parts sometimes much better then some gun oils out there. Just curious as to where you draw your conclusions from? Do you have some sort of chemical engineering degree? Could I just go buy a bunch of CLP and dump it into my truck?
W Turner
08-15-2005, 11:26
I second the recommendation for Ed's Red. I mixed up a batch a month or so ago and it works as well as Break-free or anything else I have tried.
Here's the recipe:
1 part Automatic Transmission Fluid (Dexron-Mercon III)
1 part Acetone
1 part Odorless Mineral Spirits
1 part Kerosene or denatured alcohol...works just as well
To make a compatible gun oil, mix one ounce of ATF with one ounce of denatured alcohol.
I store mine in a plastic gasoline can that is clearly marked. I also keep some in a cheap spray bottle to use when cleaning my guns.
-DO NOT store it in a container made of HDPE. The acetone will soften it over time.
-ALWAYS use in a well vantilated area and remember that it can be flammable.
Best part is it is cheap. You can mix up a gallon for about $20.
Bull
Ed (the Ed's Red guy) recommends a 50/50 - ATF and Kerosene - mix for the compatible gun oil.
Best part is, I have all the stuff needed in my garage already.
Jake-Gallows
08-15-2005, 19:21
Originally posted by henchmen77
Brand X is still made from the same thing as motor oil most gun oil is just mineral base stock.
Most gun oils out there you can get the same protect fom motor oil, gun oil is just to lube the parts same as 5-30 if anything you get more out of say mobil-1 then you do most gun oils out there.
The only lube I would say that is different is miltec-1 and butch's oil most others are just oil in a bottle like a motor oil.
I like to mix up and try to make my own I find that mobil-1 works better to keep rust off and lubes as good as most gun oil but adding lucas oil stabilizer makes the parts flow better and protect even better.
And lets look at the temps in a motor and a handgun there not close and motor oil holds up in a motor, and holds up even better on handgun parts sometimes much better then some gun oils out there.
If you show me that you have formal education on this subject, I might buy it...
Also, I can pour motor oil like 5-30 out and it is much thicker than my gun oil, so right there I know that there is something different. Also as I said before, good gun oil is designed to repel dust, and debris, and motor oil does not do that, it actually traps dust, dirt, and debris so that it can carry it to the filter. Now, my gun isn't equipped with an oil filter....so why would I want that? The lucas oil company web page says that lucas oil stabilizer "also stops most seal leaks" Now how does it do that? What sort of chemical properties does this stuff have to do that, and do I want that in a weapon that is there to keep my alive? Also, this product is "pure petroleum based" as the company says, and after googling it I have found that it is flammable. Is that something to worry about in small quantaties, I don't know....do you?
You say that motor oil holds up better than handgun oil. How do you know? What testing have you done? What testing have you seen? Can you show me something scientific on this? Personally, I just don't see why would would be willing to take a chance on something that could cost you your life. It's just a couple of bucks for gun oil, why sweat that? If you have a nice weapon that you use for defense, why not take care of it with something that has been tested and proven to work on what you are using it in and using it for.
metroplex
08-18-2005, 08:16
I use BreakFree CLP because it meets/exceeds MIL-L-63460D, and is on the QPL for 63460. Militec-1 and FP-10 did not meet this spec, and my own corrosion testing confirms that they most likely failed the corrosion protection portion. They may lube better but they still don't protect the metal as well.
63460E is supposed to be coming out, and there are rumors Slip 2000's MIL-X meets this new spec. We'll see...
GoGoGophers
08-19-2005, 00:43
Oil, schmoil... This topic seems to get people nearly as breathless as the 9mm vs .45 issue.
There are 62 dozen products out there under the generic classification of "gun oil & lubricants". Many of them are formulated by individuals who have no technical background, much less any advanced training in chemistry, yet they all claim their product is superior to the competition. Some even claim their products possess magical properties, such as the ability to repel dirt and debris.(This being achieved by the use of anti-gravity powder, I suppose.) These claims normally aren't validated by any independent scientific testing procedure, but rather are advertised as such merely on the basis of "because I say so".
It's oil, for crying out loud, not nuclear fission. All it does is lubricate (prevent metal to metal contact) and prevent corrosion (by providing a simple physical barrier between the metal and the atmosphere). As long as it doesn't oxidize too rapidly or otherwise decompose into something nasty (like some gear lubes), just about any good oil, mineral or synthetic, will do the trick. Thin as necessary with your favorite non-evaporating solvent, add something exotic if you want to, like a dab of moly-di-sulfide, and you'll have something you too can claim is superior, then put your own label on it, and make millions in the process!
metroplex
08-19-2005, 05:35
+1
That is why I don't into much of the hype regarding XYZ product unless it meets the MIL-63460 spec and is on the QPL (which tells me that it met/exceeded the spec). BreakFree CLP on the civilian market is similar to the military version, but has a bit more solvent and is thinner. It's not necessarily a bad thing but it works great on all my firearms. It does lack some boundary lubrication properties... but I found that since firearms are designed to run dry most of the time (AR-15, AK, Glock) w/o significant wear, it's not really necessary to use ultra thick protective oil like grease for instance.
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