View Full Version : Light primer strikes
Cheezeit9
08-17-2005, 15:19
I went to the range today with my G-23. I had some problems. I was shooting winchester white box today. The first thing is that there were a few light primer strikes. Second, the slide was not going all the way forward after a shot. Its like it was catching and would go all the way back forward, and stop around 1/8th of an inch from all the way. I have not had any of these problems with any other ammo from remingon FMJ, remingto Hollow points and bulk ammo that I got from Cabelas. First question is this...Have any of you had problems like this from Winchester White Box? What could the the problem?
Glock4Life
08-17-2005, 15:23
Originally posted by Cheezeit9
The first thing is that there were a few light primer strikes. Second, the slide was not going all the way forward after a shot.
Right offhand, sounds like possibly a weak recoil spring. Is the gun stock? How old and/or how many rounds would you say have been through the gun?
1. Pistol could need a little oil.
2. Thumb may be riding the slide.
3. Barrel chamber may need a good cleaning.
4. Striker channel may need cleaning.
5. Ammo might be out of spec--it happens some times.
6. Recoil spring may be worn or damaged.
Originally posted by DannyR
4. Striker channel may need cleaning.
DannyR's #4 would be #1 on my list to check if you've had the pistol for a while.
kestrou
Cheezeit9
08-17-2005, 16:20
The recoil spring is around a year old. I got a tungsten rod with the factory 18# spring in it. I just checked the firing pin (striker) and the channel and everything was clean. I would say that I have around 1000 rounds through it now. From what I can tell, I think it was the ammo. If I remember I had used White box before and never had this problem. I have also used Remington, the stuff from cabelas, CCI, and Speer and didnt have anything like this. I just remember this. The guy that I was at the range with used some of his rounds (which was white box) with my gun, and it did the same thing, so it wasnt just my particular box of ammo I was using, although we did buy it at the same time.
Cheezeit9
08-17-2005, 16:21
Sorry, one more thing. What are all the different tests that I can do on the GLock to make sure everything is functioning properly? Along with the tests, could you explain how to perform them?
Although there are many mythical tests reported on G/T, there are few actual tests:
1. Check for proper engagement of the firing pin and trigger bar, using the orange half-cover plate.
2. If the slide locks back without a magazine in the pistol, the slide stop lever is OK.
3. If brass is ejected too far, your recoil spring is worn.
4. If the magazine does not feed the last round, the spring is worn.
Glock4Life
08-17-2005, 17:06
Have you tried to emulate the problem while using the factory recoil assembly?
Aftermarket guide rods are made in varying diameters, as are aftermarket springs. Your aftermarket rod may not be a good match for the factory spring, causing spring binding.
Originally posted by Cheezeit9
Sorry, one more thing. What are all the different tests that I can do on the GLock to make sure everything is functioning properly? Along with the tests, could you explain how to perform them?
I don't think this is really your problem, but to confirm the recoil spring is still "stiff enough", with an unloaded pistol point it at the ceiling and pull the trigger, now ease the slide back (keep the gun pointing straight up) and then ease the slide forward (yup, still pointing the gun up) and see if the spring is strong enough to bring the slide completely into battery.
You said the striker channel was clear - you detail stripped it and ran a Q-tip through it, right? ;f
kestrou
Glock4Life
08-17-2005, 21:33
Agree with Danny which is why I was kind of leading my line of questioning in that direction as well. I wasn't sure if you meant you were using an 18# factory weight spring or the actual factory spring from the stock recoil assembly. In any case, I would agree that one has to be a bit careful when putting setups together. Certain rigs like Wolff use the larger round type springs and they are sold specifically by Wolff to be used in conjunction with their rods. Other setups have a good, proven track record such as THE rods with ISMI springs and so on.
Bottom line, the slide's inability to attain battery, provided the slide/frame interface is lubed and clean really points to a spring issue in my mind although other possibilities can't be ruled out altogether. One idea to at least get some idea of fit might be to use calipers (if you have or can locate a set) to compare the diameter measurements of the stock rod and your tungsten one. If you are indeed using the Glock stock spring on your setup, this may give you some indication as to whether it's a good match.
Cheezeit9
08-17-2005, 22:01
The rod that I have i ordered from either Topglock or glockmeister with the ISMI 18# spring. Has there been a good track record with these? Now that I think about it, I think it was from TopGlock since it doesn't say Glockmeister on the back of the spring.
Correction - I did order the rod from Topglock and it is a THE rod with the ISMI spring.
Glock4Life
08-17-2005, 22:23
My first thought is that barring an abnormality, you've got a good setup there. Alot of folks use THE rods with ISMI springs. Could be the possibility you got an out of spec or weak spring I guess. Perhaps it's something else altogether and I'm just too honed in on one issue. You might try the earlier idea of trying to relpicate it with the factory rig to at least narrow down the field.
Cheezeit9
08-17-2005, 23:13
As far as a weak spring, I did the little test that Kestrou mentioned and it worked. I am going to try and go to the range again this week with the rest of the Wincehster I have and try my factory rod and spring, and then try some remington or CCI and see how it does with that. Everything looked find with the firing pin set up and all. It wasn't dirty at all or had any build-up, but I cleaned it anyways to be safe.
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