Mastering the Glock trigger

[Bailer]

Well, I'm about 800 rounds into my new Glock 34 experiment. The pistol has run flawlessly, with much less time devoted to gun/magazine cleaning. On that level I'm very satisfied. On the close/big targets I'm starting to feel comfortable and shoot reasonable scores. My problem comes on longer/smaller targets and when shooting from an awkward position. I end up with a classic low left miss. On Tuesday I ran into a plate rack at 15 yards while seated. I had four misses out of my first six shots before regrouping and focusing intensly on follow through.

I used to be somewhat competitive in the B class. Part of my problem is certainly the 6 months I took off. The trigger isn't helping. Do any of you GM,M,A types out there have any tips? Can I get there with the stock parts or do I need to talk to CGR? If I get the CGR trigger work will I give up the reliablility with Winchester White Box that I'm coming to love?

Thanks in advance!

[Kjott21]

Try reading this it may help you out some:
http://glockfaq.com/shooting.htm#trigger

or this one:
http://glockfaq.com/trigger.htm

Not about trigger gunsmithing but it might help you solve your problems.

[CanadianGlockFan]

If you learn the reset point on the trigger, it acts almost like a single-action pistol. You can do this at home with an unloaded pistol, just CHECK IT'S UNLOADED PLEASE. Cycle the slide, then pull the trigger and keep the trigger back. While holding the trigger back, cycle the slide again, and you should feel a certain amount of pressure come up on the trigger; then, slowly, ease the trigger forward until you can feel a "click" as the trigger resets (usually about 1/8"). If you pull the trigger again at that point, it should "fire" again, and it'll do the same thing when you're using live ammo. So, when you're firing at the range, you don't need to get all the way off the trigger after each shot, just ease it forward to the reset point, and you'll be ready to fire your next round.

[jobob]

Glocks have crappy triggers. The over travel is the worst part of it. I like the Ghost Rocket connectors. They require hand fitting, but when you're done nearly all of the over travel is gone. And you get a quicker reset, too.

[oct_97]

Bailer,

Contact Ralph Sotolo at 2lbdropkit@sbcglobal.net for one of the best competition drop in trigger kits available. It's about $70.00, including shipping, and head & shoulders above the Ghost Rocket. I have had several Ghost Rocket connectors and taught myself to reset the trigger after each shot, it's too slow for IPSC & IDPA. With Ralph's kit it's not necessary although on long shots I still do so to make myself slow down and make the shot.

John

[ECM242]

Originally posted by oct_97
Bailer,

Contact Ralph Sotolo at 2lbdropkit@sbcglobal.net for one of the best competition drop in trigger kits available. It's about $70.00, including shipping, and head & shoulders above the Ghost Rocket. I have had several Ghost Rocket connectors and taught myself to reset the trigger after each shot, it's too slow for IPSC & IDPA. With Ralph's kit it's not necessary although on long shots I still do so to make myself slow down and make the shot.

John I agree.
I have one in my 17 and 19. When he makes one for the large frame (21) I will have one in it as well. My 21 has a glockmeister trigger in it now and it sucks compared to Ralph's triggers.

[ShipWreck]

I "mastered" the stock Glock trigger by selling my Glock 26 and buying a Walther :p ;P

[pitbullk9]

If it's just a range gun you might look into a Vanek trigger. Brian Enos's site has alot of info on his work.

I switched from a Kimber to a G34 and it took a couple thousand rounds before I was comfortable with the trigger. I just kept shooting and worked on "calling" my shots.

[Duck of Death]

When you learn more about the Glock trigger here are some thing to do to it:

I polished thru the plating to get really smooth surfaces. Install a lighter striker spring and a heavier trigger spring. Polish the cruciform sear (do not change the angle or round the sharp upper edge), under the cruciform where it contacts the connector, the connector, the firing pin safety (clip off 2 coils of the firing pin safety spring) and polish the trigger bar where it contacts the firing pin safety, polish the part of the cruciform that is the drop safety. Grind the striker arm on the left side at a 45 degree angle and polish the striker where it contacts the cruciform sear. Polish the striker at the back flats and in the front where it will make contact with the channel liner.
Then install a pin in the ejector housing to eliminate the trigger take up. After this is done the trigger safety must be resloted to be functional. All 3 safetys will work if this is done correctly.

Does the trigger sting your finger?
Try this, push the trigger safety all the way in, it sticks out just a little bit doesn't it? Take a small knife and scrape till it's flush with the trigger. This will take the sting out when the gun is fired

[Clay1]

Ralph's trigger kit is about $50 for your G34 since you already have the 3.5 # connector installed. I love mine and the trigger breaks at 2 pounds 2 oz.

Now I am just a lowly C class shooter so take my answer with that in mind. I have fired over 9000 rounds of the 10000 rounds that I bought so far this year and have figured out that the weak hand grip for me has alot to do with this pushing down and to the left. Increase grip pressure with the weak hand.

The other thing that might help is to put your trigger finger into the trigger a little more. I always shot with the first 1/3 of my trigger finger tip. I found that with the Glock I push the gun with my finger tip a little low and to the left. If I insert the finger a little deeper, not all the way to the joint, but rather shoot with the middle of the pad I pull the trigger in a straighter line rearward.

Try these three things and see what kind of results you have:

Ralph's trigger kit
weak hand grip
finger placement

Good luck,

Rick

[Bailer]

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I've been a little sidetracked lately and haven't made it to a match. I'll look into the Sotolo and Vanek options.

[Speedrock]

"Contact Ralph Sotolo for one of the best competition drop in trigger kits available."

This is an understatement! He should call it the "Thinking Man's" trigger kit as it has all you really need and none of the fluff, like pre/overtravel stops, etc. Actually makes the mushy OEM 3.5 conn. work and "feel" good and, be very, very consistant. RS could charge double or triple for this and still sell lots of them. It's probably the best bargin going for what you actually get performance-wise. Have conservativley 3K thru a 34 with his kit and the control it provides for precision shots, weak-hand and distance stuff is falt-out amazing. After a "full" season of use, am still learning it! Mine's been utterly reliable with FED primers and letting the gun go without cleaning for 400-700 rounds on a couple of occasions.

He did his homework on this one, for sure.......

[Flexmoney]

Buying a new trigger might prove helpful (as would just doing the 25 cent trigger job), but the low-left thing points to a technique issue.

The glock two-stage trigger lends itself to "milking the gun"...and getting those low-left hits. As the shooter pulls the trigger, the rest of the strong hand fingers grip tighter along with the trigger finger. The whole hand grips harder and "milks" the gun off target.

One thing that will help...as mentioned...is to only let the trigger out to the reset point between shots (where possible).

Another thing is to grip less with the strong hand...and more with the weak hand. The strong hand should almost relax...allowing the trigger finger to move independently.