Cleaning slide with soap & water?

[Mighty HD]

Once the slide is completely disassembled does anyone clean with soap/water instead of hoppes or other cleaners? If so, would there be a problem with hard water deposits building up anywhere?

[corona]

I wouldn't use soap. Use Simple Green and hot water instead.

There were threads here about 3 weeks ago about it. I highly recommend it. In fact, clean the whole gun in it.

[ColoradoGlocker]

.

[Glock4Life]

I like Gunscrubber myself. I wouldn't use water on any firearm for any reason.

[Mighty HD]

I always use hopps, but keep reading that some people use water, simple green, soap, and other stuff so I was curious.

[gurn]

I'm in Louisiana where humidity is high and out on the salt water a lot. My duty weapons have yet to rust and fall off of my belt. I clean my Glocks and others once in a while with hot water and soap to blast all of the crap out. Follow up with a drying and light oil. Just don't go taking a brillo pad to it. I use a GI toothbrush, dawn and hot water. If you have an air compressor to blow out the excess while it's still hot, you'll be good. Never a problem with rust. Water gets the salt out, oil and solvent doesn't. I'd rather have the fresh water hard water deposits than the salt residue. Since they are wet most of the time anyway, I don't worry about what washing them will do.
BTW, they seem the wettest when leaving the comfort of the A/C and going outside. They drip like a cold soda.

These things were built for war, they can take a beating.

[Sun Kist]

I quite often clean my weapons with soap and water. Been known to put stainless guns in the dishwasher. Blow them out with compressed air and lube them. If a little water will ruin your weapon, keep it in the safe. Police and military weapons get wet all the time. Blackpowder weapons are cleaned with hot water all the time. I clean printed curcuit boards in soapy water, just be sure you dry them before you reapply power.

[civilwarguns]

I worked in the 80's at the sheriff's dept. and our firearms man would clean our S&W model 66 stainless in a pot of boiling water and then hang them in the oven to let them dry. They worked fine and give no problem at all.

[PzGren]

We did it in the military, it was the only way to get the mud off. Many soldiers took their guns in the shower with them.
Of course, they will need a regular cleaning and oiling afterwards to dry the gun and get the water out.

[rick458]

make sure the water is as hot as you can stand it, and shake it thoroughly, of coarse you want to protect it after that.

[DEJ/FL]

I use MPro7. I spray all of the disassembed parts and give them a good brushing with a nylon parts brush, then I rince all of the parts off in hot water. It leaves the parts spotless. Dry off with a clean cloth, lube to spec's and reassemble.
For you Stainless Steel revolver fans, MPro7 will clean the cylinder face so easy you won't belive it!

Dan:cool:

[DBR]

Simple Green 1:20 at about 120 degrees is a good general cleaner. Then put the parts in a pan of boiling water. Leave them there for 10-15 minutes until they are at boiling water temp. Take them out, shake off and put on a paper towel. Getting the parts hot allows the remaining water to steam off the parts leaving them dry. I like the new Breakfree CLP formulation (post 2003) as a general purpose corrosion inhibitor/lube and synthetic motor oil on moving parts.

[YukonGlocker]

I usually fire 300-600 rounds when I go to the range. This is how I clean a Glock when I get home.
1. Disassemble Glock pistol. (completely-except leave the sights on)
2. Run a solvent soaked patch through barrel and set aside. (Hoppe's copper solvent)
3. Arrange all parts on cookie tray and get a large bowl of warm water next to you.
4. Get that barrel thats been soaking for a few minutes and run a solvent soaked brush through it a few times.
5. Hose everything down with Simple Green, inside and out.
6. Take a toothbrush and scrub each part then drop in water. Use a q-tip to clean any holes you can't reach with toothbrush.
7. Rinse all parts well and lay out on paper towels to dry. I take only the receiver, slide, and barrel, and rinse under running water. DO NOT TAKE ANY SMALL PARTS ANYWHERE NEAR THE SINK, trust me!!!
8. Let all parts dry completely. I usually let it set overnight. Compressed air or hair dryer will speed the drying process.
9. You now have an unbelieveably clean Glock. Assemble pistol and lube per the manual. (Breakfree LP)

[Mighty HD]

Instead of taking apart the lower, I have been using gun scrubber to blast the crap out. Works great. I then put a drop of oil on the trigger and I'm done.

Then shoot gun scrubber on the barrell, all slide parts after the slide is completely taken apart. I then use the bore brush about 50-60 times in the barrell to get it completely spotless (hopps 9), then a few patches of hopps 9, and a few dry ones. Let it sit for a few, then bein oiling er down with miltec-1

[A_Swede_17_1911]

I won't use simple green to wash anything that is Aluminum or Anodized, it will remove the Anodizing. I would use regular liquid dishsoap, say like Dawn, and boiling water, to clean my SKS, after shoot corrosive ammo, because the hot soapy water will dissolve the corrisives salts of the ammo. I would field strip and was all the metal parts. Then I would rinse in boiling hot water, then towel dry, the hot water heating the metal would help it dry faster as well. Then I thoughly spray all the metal parts I washed with brake cleaner to displace any water still left. I would lightly lube all small parts with CLP and a rag, then assemble. I only do this with my SKS, the key is the Boiling hot water, use gloves so you dont scald your self.