How, What, When, & Where To Lube/Oil 1911

[Carlson1]

What oil/lube should you use? All help is appreciated

[gcmj45acp]

I'm no expert. I generally use Tetra gun grease and gun lubricant anywhere two pieces of steel routinely rub together. Hilton Yam offer's a better explaination though....

http://www.signaturegrade.com/sg/1911userguide.pdf

[CCV]

In my experience tightly fitted 1911's don't perform well with grease on the slide rails, especially in cold weather. I now use oil exclusively.

I've tried most everything over the years:

Breakfree CLP- Worked fine (the formula changed a few years ago)

FP-10 - Works well, one of the better oils I've found.

Militec 1- Works OK. Doesn't seem to last as long through those long firing sessions between cleanings, although I never had a lubrication related problem while using it. However, it is SLICK.

Mobil 1- Yep, the motor oil. I've started using it on my 1911's and I must admit, the pistols seem smoother than before. The oil stays put (as best and oil can) and the slide surfaces are still "wet" when I field strip for cleaning. This may be the one I stay with, time will tell.


I'm sure there are other good options, these are just the ones I've tried.


Good shooting

[SilverState]

For the inside of the barrel after cleaning, I use Hoppe's gun oil or Break Free CLP. I then spray Rem Oil on all metal parts after cleaning but before reassembly.

I put several hundred rounds of differnt ammo through my 1911s at a time without a hiccup.

[gcmj45acp]

Originally posted by CCV
In my experience tightly fitted 1911's don't perform well with grease on the slide rails, especially in cold weather. I now use oil exclusively.


I noted similar experience with an Eddie Jimenea built Caspian several years back. I actually ran 90w gear oil in that gun and it really ran well with it. The great thing about the gear oil was that didn't evaporate or easily run out of the gun. But while it worked well in the super tight pistol, it still tended to run out over time and the gun was always slick. Almost too slick to handle.

These days, with so much going on between the real job, working at the range and attending local matches, I often have to run my guns for extended periods with little or no maintenance. I'm also too scatter brained to ever remember to re-oil a carry gun so that's how I landed at a combination of grease and oil. The result is that the gun isn't nearly a stiff as it might be with grease alone but critical surfaces stay "wet" far longer than is usually the case with oil alone and with less mess than I typically have with the gear or motor oils.

[Carlson1]

Stop at Autozone buy oil for the car and 1911. Makes a one stop shopping. Thanks for the information.

[prezzz]

Don't over lubricate. Oil is a dirt/girt magnet and the result is an effective lapping compound. A little is good...A lot is NOT gooder.

Two drops in each frame rail...A drop on the cocking/disconnector rail in the slide...A drop between the cocked hammer and frame for the hammer hooks and sear...A drop on the link...A light smear on the bushing OD and ID...A drop on the thumb safety lug(when removed) A drop on the slidestop crosspin...A drop on the top of the disconect...A light smear on the trigger bow(When removed) Push the mag catch button and put a small drop on the right side and work it in...Firing pin...LIGHTLY..with slightly oily fingers...Firing pin spring...LIGHTLY...with oily fingers...A light smear on the extractor with oily fingers...One drop in each locking lug in the slide...Wipe the surface down with a lightly oiled cloth, and follow with a dry cloth. Yes. Stainless pistols too. Lightly oil all pins whenever the pistol is detail-stripped. If you don't know how to detail-strip the gun...learn to. I can help.

Carry guns should be maintained each time they are fired. Though detail-stripping each time isn't necessary, do it at 500 rounds or quarterly..whichever comes first. Cheap insurance. Carrying a gun concealed exposes it to a lit of lint and dust. Lightly re-oil the frame rails weekly.

I use Tetra Gun products but everything mentioned so far is good also. Yep, Even Mobil 1.

[BilltheCat]

would love to detail strip my Kimber series II but am just sure I will have parts left over when back together!

[prezzz]

Originally posted by BilltheCat
would love to detail strip my Kimber series II but am just sure I will have parts left over when back together!

Here you go: Detailed instructions.

http://www.marstar.ca/AssemblyColt1911.htm

[BilltheCat]

thats what I mean. scares the hell out of me. I have no tools for guns, and am not sure I can get em back in and working right.

would love to see it done up close and personal to learn by doing with supervison as I do it. I would be broken hearted to screw a grand plus gun up.

[prezzz]

It purely depends on your mechanical ability. That's the beauty of the 1911, there are no special tools required.

I don't want to talk you into something that is beyond your skills, but nothing ventured.....nothing gained, that's the way I approached it the first time. But, it was a $300 Charles Daly and not a $1000 gun and I would say that I have a better than average mechanical kills.

[BilltheCat]

My brother has mechanical ability flowing from his pores. He took the family's quota.

I am working from the wisdom not to take a chance on a crucial tool. If it were my 7th 1911, heck yes.

someone could make a mockup with all parts to teach maybe. souns like a business opp for someone.

[Big B]

Originally posted by BilltheCat
thats what I mean. scares the hell out of me. I have no tools for guns, and am not sure I can get em back in and working right.

would love to see it done up close and personal to learn by doing with supervison as I do it. I would be broken hearted to screw a grand plus gun up.

That is pretty much how I feel as well.

[lethal tupperwa]

getting it apart is indeed the easy part.

[SVTNate]

The slide on a 1911 is very easy to disassemble. I take out my extractor and firing pin once every couple times I shoot the gun, just to clean and lightly lube both parts.

Taking the frame apart looks easy, it's just knowing how to reassemble it that worries me. I have to add that I have very little mechanical ability, but I can detail strip a Glock and reassemble it :)

[freepatriot]

the trigger group looks like a conglomeration of parts and springs, don't it?

[SilverState]

I am surprised my 1911s are 100% reliable given that I only field strip them and clean them as I previously indicated.

If it ain't broke...

[1991]

Detail stripping a 1911 is not hard, although it looks daunting the first time out. Go slow, observe how the parts fit together before they are removed, and lay everything out in the order in which it is removed. To put the pistol back together, start with the last part removed and reinstall in reverse order.

[michael t]

Originally posted by 1991
Detail stripping a 1911 is not hard, although it looks daunting the first time out. Go slow, observe how the parts fit together before they are removed, and lay everything out in the order in which it is removed. To put the pistol back together, start with the last part removed and reinstall in reverse order.

It really not all that hard I took my apart first time and laid every part out on a white towel. Remember 45 was designed to be torn down in field with no tools by a GI in those days that was lucky to have a 6th grade ed. Their plenty of instructions out here on net.
Try it and suprise your self. First time I did it as soon as back together I took apart again I just couldn't belive how easy it really was.

[Cam Cooke]

I have been using Lucas synthetic motor/transmission/differential additives for years now.

They have now come out with a synthetic gun lube that I have been using for about a year.

Seems to be about the best lube that I have used so far.

I put one drop onto any 2 mating surfaces on the slide and the occational drop on the hammer area after I am finished cleaning and during reassembling my Colt Delta Elite.

[vanilla_gorilla]

I use Tetra and put it anywhere 2 surfaces rub together. It's thick stuff, and stays put, so you only need a dab. In fact, a coating so thin that you can't see it but can feel it is obtainable, and probably what is needed.

[NoGo]

+ 4 or 5 on the greased rails/ tight pistol/ cold day malfunctions, but my production 1911's tolerate it fine on cold days.

The only advantage to grease is that it says in place instead of creeping or wicking away. Not necessarily a better lube, just there when you need it.

I'm not real picky with lube, using the free Militec or wheel bearing grease on all but my tightened Commander rails. Army leftover Break Free CLP, Militec or Mobil 1 oil on everything else.

To honor the Military tradition of overlubrication, I still slop a few more drops of oil on the rails at the start of range sessions.

If the gun works well, the lube choice isn't critical. Corrosion protection is another issue, but many past threads have discussed that.

On dissasembly, cleaning and reassembly of the 1911 and similar pistols- Come on guys, it's not a Swiss watch (Stolen from 1911 Tuner). Besides a bushing wrench if needed, all you need is a brass or plastic punch (I've used a piece of a bamboo skewer. A $0.25 piece of brazing rod [cut a 3" piece] works fine as well.) and maybe a screwdriver handle to act as a mallet/ hammer to tap on the punch and drive out the MSH pin, it's an easy job.

Just buck up and do it. Part of owning a 1911 ;)

[gwalchmai]

Originally posted by 1991
Detail stripping a 1911 is not hard, although it looks daunting the first time out. Go slow, observe how the parts fit together before they are removed, and lay everything out in the order in which it is removed. To put the pistol back together, start with the last part removed and reinstall in reverse order. Yep. I finally feel comfortable after doing it a few times. One trick I learned is to get a partitioned plastic box to keep the parts grouped together. Oh, and the pins CAN be put back in backwards...

[prezzz]

Originally posted by vanilla_gorilla
I use Tetra and put it anywhere 2 surfaces rub together. It's thick stuff, and stays put, so you only need a dab. In fact, a coating so thin that you can't see it but can feel it is obtainable, and probably what is needed.


Ditto. I use the same stuff for the same reason. It seems to be the perfect viscosity and a nice compromise between oil and grease. Most oils I've used in the past tend to run into areas oil isn't needed, thusly causing the concentration of lubricant in the area you needed it originally, to be very thin.

The Tetra product stays where you put it, but fluid enough to allow the parts to move freely.

............and it smells good! Not quite as good as Hoppes though :)

[auto45]

Aside from the good posts here, Wilson has a good book out for @$10 that has good instructions and pictures for all you needs.

Keep in mind, IMO, that Wilson shows every tool you could possibly use and he "oils" just about everything, which you don't need to for proper functioning. But, keep in mind, a lot of parts that you should lubricate are done to reduce "wear". Which is a good thing if you shoot a lot and want to keep it "right" as long as possible. 1911's are not cheap to rebuild.

I use FP-10 which seems to work quite well. As do other lubricants. ;)

[freepatriot]

Originally posted by NoGo
Just buck up and do it. Part of owning a 1911 ;)


You convinced me. Time to man up.

[SVTNate]

I'll detail strip eventually. I only have one 1911 right now, and it's sitting at the SA Custom Shop.

Of course, if it's extra pretty when I get it back... well, I'll have to get another 1911 to detail strip :)

[BilltheCat]

yea maybe a cheapo version with no love invested in it.