best lube

[jbremount]

Is the Militec lube the latest and greatest lube for the AR15? I am still using the old clp but thinking of changing . Where is the best place online to purchase the Militec lube?

[CaptToyota]

I have been using Mobil-1, in the 10-30.

I started with the LSA years ago, it was ok, getting harder to find, does not seem to have an oil like film about it.

I bought some CLP.... stuff is crap. I run my AR's with a suppressor, and the added pressure/heat back into the upper when it opens literally baked the CLP into a dry grey chalk, causing rifle to malfunction.

Switched to the Mobil-1 synthetic stuff, the rifle actually runs longer, the oil not burn up.

[RMTactical]

I, along with everyone that I personally know of uses CLP.

I think one thing to remember with AR's is that they DO NOT require large amounts of lubrcation. I've found that most people over lube their AR's, which causes more problems, specifically with sand and other stuff.

Some folks use motor oil, and I don't care for that. Not that I think it doesn't work, but I wouldn't use it unless that's all I had.

As for militec, it's good stuff, but it's expensive and I just don't see a need to switch from what I'm using.

[Sierra]

Breakfree CLP here.

[kwando]

i also use brakefree CLP on my AR and my Glock and my Remington shotgun

[The-Fly]

CLP here, works great for all my guns.

[liliysdad]

MobilOne 5w-20, and Lubriplate for the parts that require grease.

[Yamdog]

I was our departmental armorer and we stopped using CLP. It migrates, evaporates, and doesn't maintain lubricity. Militec is superior for that. On the down side, Militec is not as good a protectorant, but we shot every month so it was not a big deal.

[Tederrific]

I for a short while used FP10 after reading many a rave review. That stuff evaporated and left my rifle bone dry after a relatively short period of time in the safe. Went back to Breakfree CLP.

[Dennis in MA]

Miltec gets bad reviews on ARFCOM. Little-to-no protectant and zero cleaning. CLP does all 3.

I use G96. Probably b/c it smells faintly of bubblegum. Allegedly very good for cold-weather. As good as CLP. Less shaking needed.

[Gmountain]

I use Rem-Oil

[liliysdad]

I personally thing CLP is trash. In my opinion, any one fluid that claims to do all three, does none as well as it should.

I use Hoppes No9 for bore cleaning, Carb Cleaner for carbon buildup, MobilOne for lubrication and protection.

Plus, Breakfree just stinks.

[TimP]

break free CLP for me.

[agtman]

"...and Lubriplate for the parts that require grease"

I've also been questioning whether CLP is the best out there, but the above quote caught my eye.

Maybe I missed the AR-maintenance class on this topic, but what internal parts of the upper receiver or bolt carrier group "require" grease - as opposed to using only CLP (or another oily lubricant/cleaner)?

Thanks.

[Dennis in MA]

I've wondered that too. Like should the FCG be lubed instead of CLP'd? What about the buffah? ("Buffahs? Yeah, buffahs. Da Corleone family had a lodda buffahs.") I can see something thin for the BCG. I dunno. Anyone? Bueller?

(I am pretty sure the military man'well says CLP and nuttin else. But what do they know? LOL)

[liliysdad]

I should have clarified. I didnt mean the AR, necessarily, I was speaking in general terms of gun maintenance. I use grease for slide rails on my auto pistols. I am currently using Tetra, but simply because I found it on clearance at Walmart, and had heard good things about it. When it runs out, I will be going back to Lubriplate.

[Dark_IT_Papa]

BreakFree CLP here also.

[Skintop911]

CLP or Tetra oil.

[Panzerfaust]

I think one thing to remember with AR's is that they DO NOT require large amounts of lubrcation. I've found that most people over lube their AR's, which causes more problems, specifically with sand and other stuff.

Amen to that, brother!!!

Personally, I use the stuff Otis puts out to clean it up, and Rem-oil in the spray can for lubing...

[Black Tiger]

I usually use Tetra-Gun Grease on all my personally owned weapons and I can't think of anything better.

http://www.tetraproducts.com/product_view.asp?ID=1

If it's endorsed by Kimber, Bushmaster, Para Ordnance and Beretta, then is for a good reason.

http://www.tetraproducts.com/endorsements.asp

[Gmountain]

Originally posted by Black Tiger

If it's endorsed by Kimber, Bushmaster, Para Ordnance and Beretta, then is for a good reason.



Money?

[GunBomB]

Tetra is actually a damn good product. The bore solvent stinks but I let that ***** soak up good like it says. In the end, I don't have to use the bore brush!

[macjoc]

Originally posted by CaptToyota
I have been using Mobil-1, in the 10-30.

I started with the LSA years ago, it was ok, getting harder to find, does not seem to have an oil like film about it.

I bought some CLP.... stuff is crap. I run my AR's with a suppressor, and the added pressure/heat back into the upper when it opens literally baked the CLP into a dry grey chalk, causing rifle to malfunction.

Switched to the Mobil-1 synthetic stuff, the rifle actually runs longer, the oil not burn up.



+1 on Mobile 1

[Nick710]

I've been trying Lucas's Gun Oil, its red in color but a good coating will allow you to wipe off the carbon with a rag.

[Jackyl]

Mobil-1 20w50 on the inside, G96 on the outside...on everything.

[Opie]

CLP on all my firearms. Never had a problem with it.....

[jonathon]

Use CLP since I got a crap load of it for a good price.. I like it.

Also had good luck with Mobil 1 so.

Both seem to stay where they are put, and both seem to hold up to carbon and other crap pretty well.

[A_Swede_17_1911]

CLP, is not the end all, but I like it for my AR, and my M4, it dissolves the carbon, so you can get by with out having to clean the star chamber out if its not to bad, I like it cause I can come home and soak the action, then wipe it pretty much down the next day and have it relativly clean.

I also like mil tec just for a lubicant, before had it didnt seem to migrate or evaporate. It sucks for cleainig but good for lubeing so I like it too.

I usally end up just using CLP, its cheap, it works.


Im talking about general cleaing not like getting all the fouling out of a bore, I like some Sweets 7.62 or something like that.

[ElConquistador]

I use Break Free LP it stays put a lot better than the CLP, everything is still nice and oily when you tear it down.

I don't like FP10, a lot of people talk it up but it's worse than CLP and it stains everything nasty yellow. It does smell nice though.

[Gr8Shooter]

3-IN-ONE OIL

[Jackyl]

:laughabove: :rofl: :animlol:

[Critter]

For the most part I use CLP, but I have some Mobil 1 that a racing buddy of mine keeps giving me when he changes oil in his dragster. (Leftovers from the fresn bottles, no the used stuff) All of it works well enough, and as much as I shoot, I don't worry about migration, it's never been a problem, and this is from someone who only cleans every 1000 rounds, whether they need it or not. I have never had a lube related failure, rust, etc...

I have been leaning more and more towards using Slip 2000 as it is Aqueas based vs. petroleum based. It works every bit as well, and although I wouldn't use it as a sunscreen I'm sure it's better on my skin than the others. Several people I trust have said it works better, but I run everything I own wet so about anything would work.

A note on greases, and this is just from having customers guns in the shop that think all of the 'newest greatest' action lubes will help them become better shooters and make their platforms bullet proof. Half of the problems they encounter are from inadequate lube, and this could be from mixing lubes that don't play nice together, I dunno. The excess grease moves to the corners and crannies, along with grit and grime and whatever else gets in there. Keep in mind, most of the grease stays whee you put it, but also keep in mind, it stays where you put it with everything it holds on to. I don;t reccomend the stuff except in rarely shot mouse/carry guns where they are cleaned after shooting and put back into the scabbard or in firearms that require it, such as the M-1/M-14 family.

None of this is scientific, it's just based on what I see through my shop, at the 3-4 matches I host each month, and the heavy use my firearms see with very little cleaning through them.

[LA_357SIG]

What makes one gun oil superior than any other?

[G26man]

I've been using this stuff exclusively for lube and protectorant ever since I tried it. It leaves a thin film that doesn't attract dirt but feels slippery and stays longer then any other liquid lube I've ever tried. As for corrosion protection, well it is unparalleled IMO. Scroll down and read the gun rag reviews. The "tech demo" is kind of interesting too.

http://www.corrosionx.com/gun_use.html


Militec-1 is good to bake on parts and then wipe off. Not so much as a liquid lube IMO.

[Brown Hawk]

Originally posted by Critter
...
I have been leaning more and more towards using Slip 2000 as it is Aqueas based vs. petroleum based. It works every bit as well, and although I wouldn't use it as a sunscreen I'm sure it's better on my skin than the others. Several people I trust have said it works better, but I run everything I own wet so about anything would work.



I tried the Slip2000 EWL (Extreme Weapons Lube), mainly because when I was trying to find a really good dry lube, and called to ask some questions, they sent some free to my son and his whole platoon!

So I figured that I'd at least try some and give them that much support. I did a review of it on AR15.com, but the short of it is that you apply it, let it sit for a while, and wipe it off. When I ran 160 rounds at the range, then let it sit for a little over 24 hours, everything just wiped clean with rags and patches. No cleaner, just dry rags. Including the bolt face, inside of the BCG, and the bolt itself.

One of the guys over there is going to do a rust test with it, but for right now, I'm sold on it as a lube for me. It's also nice for a lube hateing Glock, as there is no residue to collect dirt.

Hawk

[Razoreye]

KY Jelly.





Ok, so I really use Slip2000. :supergrin:

[Rob96]

I use Breakfree CLP.

[epsylum]

another CLP user, on my AR at least. I went with it since a marine buddy said that what the corps uses. I figured that they trust their life to it, so it can't be all that bad.

On all my other guns I use Hoppes and what ever gun oil I have around.

[Strider47]

I used to use Break-Free, but am trying Slip 2000. No problems so far and it being non-toxic is bonus. I was using Hoppes Elite (MPro7) on my knives and wasn't terribly impressed with its corrosion resistance.

[GLOCKMASTER]

I haven't tried it yet but SLIP 2000 EWL (http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html) is getting some great reviews. I plan on ordering some soon.

[LabTech]

Mobil-1 15W50

[Razoreye]

Originally posted by GLOCKMASTER
I haven't tried it yet but SLIP 2000 EWL (http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000-EWL.html) is getting some great reviews. I plan on ordering some soon. Don't wait, order now! :thumbsup: Bravocompanyusa.com should be the only one stocking their products right now or you can go wholesale direct.

[RENEA]

Militech-1 here on all of my AR's. I use their grease on my SKS's , AK's and Garand.

[Martindog]

Originally posted by Critter
I have been leaning more and more towards using Slip 2000 as it is Aqueas based vs. petroleum based.



Help me out here, where is it that everyone keeps saying SLIP 2000 is aqueous-based? You are not the first person that's posted this, but I'm just trying to understand where this started. SLIP's website says nothing of this, although it does make that claim for their Carbon Cutter and cleaner/degreaser product. Is that where the confusion is coming in, or do I have it wrong?

Maybe I've got it wrong, but when I think of aqueous-based I think of something like water soluable cutting oil. I don't think SLIP 2000 is anything like that.

It's my understanding that SLIP 2000 is a synthetic lube as opposed to a petroleum-based lube. But I don't think synthetic oils (e.g., Mobil 1) are aqueous-based.

Can anyone shed some light on this? Again, maybe I've got it wrong, but SLIP makes no claims their lubes are aqueous-based.

[Jackyl]

Owner of SLIP 2000 or whatever the parent company's name is sold me on the SLIP 2000 lube over Mobil-1 on the phone one day and even sent me a free bottle, but I'm afraid to try it because I've been loving the CHEAP & ENDLESS supply of Mobil-1 15-50 for years now. He said it was something based, rather than petroleum-based and that their product wouldn't attract or hold the carbon / fouling that Mobil-1 would. I think it's splitting hairs, but if it's enough to notice a difference, I just might have to make the switch. That is, if I can put the Mobil-1 down long enough to give it a shot.

[LApm9]

Any one use Ballistol? I just got my first AR and that is what I use on my other weapons.

[Critter]

Originally posted by Martindog
Help me out here, where is it that everyone keeps saying SLIP 2000 is aqueous-based? You are not the first person that's posted this, but I'm just trying to understand where this started. SLIP's website says nothing of this, although it does make that claim for their Carbon Cutter and cleaner/degreaser product. Is that where the confusion is coming in, or do I have it wrong?

Maybe I've got it wrong, but when I think of aqueous-based I think of something like water soluable cutting oil. I don't think SLIP 2000 is anything like that.

It's my understanding that SLIP 2000 is a synthetic lube as opposed to a petroleum-based lube. But I don't think synthetic oils (e.g., Mobil 1) are aqueous-based.

Can anyone shed some light on this? Again, maybe I've got it wrong, but SLIP makes no claims their lubes are aqueous-based.

You are correct. I get to talking about the Slip 2000 tend to not clarify completely, and in this case screwed up royally, thanks for pointing it out.

Here is the scoop, the Slip 2000 Weapons Lubricant and Cleaner/Preservative is totally synthetic based, non-hazerdous and non-toxic, as well as there Extreme Weapons Lube which is basically the same, bujt much more durable and withstands higher temperatures and pressures, so it stays put. The Slip 2000 cleaners, Gas Piston Parts and Choke Tube Cleaner and the Carbon Killer are water based cleaners that are non-hazardous and non-toxic.

[RM]

I really like TW25B, it is a good lube. A q-tips worth following cleaning a week plus in the desert without recleaning and was enough to get through a UBLs worth of ammo.

[Sierra]

RM - Where did you get the TW-25B? I just cannot seem to find it locally.

[RM]

Got it through the supply system, it is used to lube M3s and Miniguns so all we had to do was order the NSN and got cases of it.

[Martindog]

Originally posted by Critter
You are correct. I get to talking about the Slip 2000 tend to not clarify completely, and in this case screwed up royally, thanks for pointing it out.

Here is the scoop, the Slip 2000 Weapons Lubricant and Cleaner/Preservative is totally synthetic based, non-hazerdous and non-toxic, as well as there Extreme Weapons Lube which is basically the same, bujt much more durable and withstands higher temperatures and pressures, so it stays put. The Slip 2000 cleaners, Gas Piston Parts and Choke Tube Cleaner and the Carbon Killer are water based cleaners that are non-hazardous and non-toxic.

Thanks. And again, hope I did not come off as being argumentative, that definitely was not my intent. I just wanted to challenge this point since it just didn't make intuitive sense.

And it's not just Joe "internet" Schmoes reporting this, I've seen it in print in a SWAT gun rag, Pat Rogers was the author IIRC. It's not a big deal except when I first read that it was aqueous-based, I was turned off to it. I just didn't understand how a water-based lube was a good thing.

After making my initial post above I 've contacted SLIP, both by phone and email, asking for their clarification. If I get any response from them I will update it here.

[Razoreye]

Originally posted by Martindog
I just didn't understand how a water-based lube was a good thing. EASY KILLER! I believe water based lube is good to go with condoms as oil based will counteract the barrier eliminating the "protection." Oh, not that kind of lube?? :banana: :banana:

[Critter]

Originally posted by Razoreye
EASY KILLER! I believe water based lube is good to go with condoms as oil based will counteract the barrier eliminating the "protection." Oh, not that kind of lube?? :banana: :banana:

Vagasil will work in a pinch sport, don't toss it out if you happen to have it.:tbo:

[Critter]

Originally posted by Martindog
Thanks. And again, hope I did not come off as being argumentative, that definitely was not my intent. I just wanted to challenge this point since it just didn't make intuitive sense.

And it's not just Joe "internet" Schmoes reporting this, I've seen it in print in a SWAT gun rag, Pat Rogers was the author IIRC. It's not a big deal except when I first read that it was aqueous-based, I was turned off to it. I just didn't understand how a water-based lube was a good thing.

After making my initial post above I 've contacted SLIP, both by phone and email, asking for their clarification. If I get any response from them I will update it here.

Absoloutly not, it was a mistake on my part in the form I put it in, I just got caught uo in te moment.

Personally, I have used/use standard CLP and motor oil, but the Slip 2000 products seem to being doing the same job better as far as clean-up goes down the road. It being non-toxic is a big plus as I have finally reached the age where I realize that I am not immortal and that stuff does make your hair fall out along with many other undesirable concequences if you don't take care of yourself.

Now, as a side note, the two carbon cutters mentioned above are actually the same thing with the exception of the color and packaging, so if your local range, most likely a shotgun heavy range has the one but not the other, use it and don't bother ordering the other. If you use the Slip 2000's CLP products regulary, you will most likely avoid the need of the carbon cutter altogether.

[Martindog]

Originally posted by Critter
Now, as a side note, the two carbon cutters mentioned above are actually the same thing with the exception of the color and packaging, so if your local range, most likely a shotgun heavy range has the one but not the other, use it and don't bother ordering the other. If you use the Slip 2000's CLP products regulary, you will most likely avoid the need of the carbon cutter altogether.

That's exactly what the SLIP rep told me a year or so ago when I called him about the Carbon Cutter. He said it's the same stuff as the Gas piston and Choke Tube cleaner, just repackaged so the LE/MIL crowd would be willing to buy it.

Also note their 725 Cleaner/Degreaser is water-based. Not sure what the difference is though between it and the Carbon Cutter since they both are advertised to do the same thing. Not sure which one is more effective at removing carbon, but I understand they both will also remove oils so as soon as you clean the parts and dry them you are supposed to lube/protect them right away to avoid corrosion.

[Martindog]

UPDATE from SLIP as promised:


From: info@slip2000.com

Hi John,

Our
slip 200 lubricants are not water based. Theyare infact a pure synthetic lubricant. ONLY our cleaners (Carbon Killer,725 Cleaner and Copper Cutter) are water based.

Hope this helps.

Slip 2000





John Martin writes:

> I read in more than one publication that your lubes are aqueous-based.
> I see on your website you mention that fact for your 725 Cleane

r/Degreaser and your carbon Cutter, but I see no such claim for
> your lube. I understood your lube was synthetic-based (rather than
> petroleum-based), but I didn't think synthetic lubes were aqueous-based.
>
>
>
> Are your lubes aqueous-based? If so, wouldn't that allow quicker
> evaporation and/or decrease protection against rust?
>

[Rinspeed]

I use FP-10 or CLP.

[Fear762]

Quaker State 10w/30 :cheers: