Smith and Wesson Frame Lug Question

[NucSub]

I need to push out the frame lug on my new Model 37-2 S&W to "lock" my cylinder into place.
Question: If I remove the side plate will the back of the lug be acessible?
Have asked this on the S&W Forum but it is slow compared to GlockTalk.

[DJ Niner]

I believe they are riveted in place through a hole in the frame; I doubt you will be able to do what you want, even accessing it from the inside. If it isn't keeping the cylinder in place, there is a rather severe problem with the weapon. I recommend sending it to the factory for a checkup. If it is new as you said, S&W should fix it for free.

[fhp490]

Why do you need to push the frams lug?

[NucSub]

Because the lug is too far into the frame to stop the cylinder from sliding back.

[tous]

Need a better description of the problem, mi amigo.

The part that 'locks' the cylinder in place is the cylinder bolt (Ruger) or cylinder latch (Colt) or cylinder stop (S&W). It snaps up after cylinder rotation and fits into the recesses in the cylinder. Is that what you mean?

Note that the cylinder should not slide backwards.

[Bren]

So you are saying that when the cylinder is all the way open and you point the muzzle in the air, the cylinder falls off the yoke, because the lug isn't stopping it? I believe the lug is staked from the inside and you do remove the side plate to get to it. I have never fooled with one, so I don't know how much adjustment is possible.

Are you sure this isn't a matter of the yoke being loose, so the cylinder can jump over the lug? I'm just guessing - I loosened the yoke on a 586 to test this and it didn't cause a problem short of the yoke coming out of the frame.

[DJ Niner]

Could be a bent yoke; if it allows the rear of the cylinder to ride too far from the frame when open, then the results would be similar to a "too short" frame lug.

I still think you should give the factory a shot at fixing it.

[KB4IFS]

I do know S&W stakes their frame lugs from the inside. I called about replacing mine as it rotated upder heavy recoil, a 10MM, and they said to send it back. The part only costs a few dollars. The hard part is getting the sideplate off properly to expose the part and replacing it. I would call S&W first to see if it is warrented first. Then decide if you want to send it back or get a local "real" gunsmith to replace it.