3.5 lb trigger

[lewprinting]

Hi all, I have a G 32 with the stock trigger in it (which I assume is the 5 lb one). I am thinking of changing it to a 3.5 lb.

I would like some feedback from some people who have done the same thing I am thinking about.

How do you like the 3.5?

Is it worth it?

What parts do you need to purchase to do it?

Can the average joe do it or should I be looking into a gunsmith?

[boze2043]

Originally posted by lewprinting
Hi all, I have a G 32 with the stock trigger in it (which I assume is the 5 lb one). I am thinking of changing it to a 3.5 lb.

I would like some feedback from some people who have done the same thing I am thinking about.

How do you like the 3.5?

Is it worth it?

What parts do you need to purchase to do it?

Can the average joe do it or should I be looking into a gunsmith?

1. The factory trigger is 5.5# and the connector you want is now a 4.5# connector. Non of the 3.5# connectors will give you a 3.5# trigger pull.

2. The 4.5# connector is an improvement over the 5.5# connector. I prefure the Scherer connector as it gave my G31C a 4.25# trigger pull and the trigger is smoother than my other Glocks that have the 4.5# Glock connector in them.

3. Yes

4. All you need is the connector. No other parts required.

5. The average joe can do the job.

[Duck of Death]

If you are interested in a slight improvement to the Glock trigger then install a Scherer 3.5 and do the 25 cent job.

[ViciousViper45]

I have a G17 I put a 3.5 in, good feel, well worth the few dollars spent on the new connector. Follow up shots for me are more accurate because of the lower amount to force needed.

[jyl]

I recently installed a "3.5lb" connector, and did a 25 cent trigger job, on my G19. This was a stock Glock connector, purchased from Custom Glock Racing.

I followed the trigger job and detail stripping instructions at the alpharubicon page (Google it). The job was straightforward; stripping the gun down took about 15 minutes, understanding which surfaces of which parts needed to be polished took another 5 minutes, and the actual polishing took about 15 minutes. I used a soft buffing wheel on my Dremel tool, some mild metal polish, and was careful to stop as soon as the parts were shiny and smooth - don't take off any detectable amount of metal. The 3.5lb connector gets some polishing and then goes in as part of the normal reassembly.

Work on a clean surface and be careful not to lose any little parts or accidentally launch them into the air when you are removing springs. The gun had never been detail stripped in 14 years, and there were a lot of metal particles and power residue in the nooks and crannies. I washed the stripped frame and slide with soap and warm water, then carefully dried them (a blowdryer with no heat works).

I had put off doing this job for some time, because I was worred about a trigger pull too light for safety, considering that the Glock has no manual safety. After I learned that the so-called "3.5lb" connector actually gives more like a 4.5lb pull, I decided to do it.

The results are very nice. The trigger is much smoother. It is also significantly lighter, but still far from a hairtrigger. The pull is still pretty long, which I like for safety reasons with this gun design.

With the old heavy trigger, after about 50 rounds of carefully aimed slow fire, pulling the trigger very slowly and deliberately, my trigger finger would get tired and my right hand would start trembling enough to affect accuracy (at 25 yds). I also had to concentrate to avoid shooting "low and left".

Yesterday I fired 50 rounds with the new trigger, with no finger fatigue or trembling hands. As for the "low and left", my first shot was perfectly in the middle of the X-ring (at 25 yds). Well, my other shots weren't as good but they were evenly distributed around the bullseye, neither low nor left.

I'm quite pleased.

I do still notice some drag on the trigger, from the side of the trigger scraping against the frame. I may do some very gentle sanding there.

Based on my experience - which is limited, I've only done this once, so consider this as the reaction of a newbie - this is an inexpensive and easy way to improve the Glock.

[switch625]

Put them in all my Glocks. Search and you will find days of reading.

[Glock4Life]

Lew,
Yep, the average Joe can do it. If you're wanting the .25 Trigger Job link (Alpharubicon one) it can be forever found in my signature line just a click away. Also, FWIW, I prefer the Scherer 3.5 as it yields a consistently smooth pull in my experience. You can always polish the stock factory connector too if you decide against the 3.5. Polishing alone, irregardless of connector choice and break weight, will smooth things out.

[lewprinting]

Thank you all for your $0.02 on the matter. I have considered all that you have told me plus what I read in other threads.

This is what I have decided:

I have already purchased the NY1 trigger spring. I have the 3.5 connector coming in the mail in a fiew days. And I'm going to do the $.25 trigger job when I get it all together.

I already installed the NY trigger spring with the help of another thread in GT. It is a heavier pull but it is more of a smooth rolling motion which is nice. Truely like a revolver trigger, like everybody says. The trigger break is still a little harder than I would like but I suspect that will improve when I get the 3.5 connector and I do the polish job.

Now all I need is 1,000,000 rounds of ammo and I'll be ready for the REVOLUTION! (Just Kidding).

Thanks again.

[Glock27Holywood]

I think I got the "Scherer" 3.5, I know for a fact it's a 3.5 but the manufacture is a little fuzzy. Anyway, love the new set up from the Glock factory job. Much smoother and a lot cleaner in the break of the trigger. I would say go with the 3.5 connector.

[Steve in Az]

I recently took my 3.5 connector out after about 10 years of use, and put the factory 5 back in. I was suprised to find that the stock 5 had a much crisper break, and hardly any difference in pull effort---wish I would have done this years ago.

**Something that may be noteworthy:
I had 2 5lb connectors; 1 the original out of my G17, the other out of a G22 that ended up getting stolen out of my apartment (never recovered).

The G17 was purchased in 1992, the G22 in 2000. I noticed that the connector from the G17 was far smoother and looked much better, where the G22 connector looked stamped-out; lots of rough edges, etc. I thought it was interesting. Also the older G17 part was plated (nickel?) the newer G22 part was not (appeared gray in color). This is how I knew which one went into the G17, as all its parts are plated.

Any of you Glock history Guru's know why this was? The way I understood it was Glock began plating the parts because police officers weren't cleaning the Glocks often enough..is this urban legend?

[boze2043]

Originally posted by Steve in Az
I recently took my 3.5 connector out after about 10 years of use, and put the factory 5 back in. I was suprised to find that the stock 5 had a much crisper break, and hardly any difference in pull effort---wish I would have done this years ago.

**Something that may be noteworthy:
I had 2 5lb connectors; 1 the original out of my G17, the other out of a G22 that ended up getting stolen out of my apartment (never recovered).

The G17 was purchased in 1992, the G22 in 2000. I noticed that the connector from the G17 was far smoother and looked much better, where the G22 connector looked stamped-out; lots of rough edges, etc. I thought it was interesting. Also the older G17 part was plated (nickel?) the newer G22 part was not (appeared gray in color). This is how I knew which one went into the G17, as all its parts are plated.

Any of you Glock history Guru's know why this was? The way I understood it was Glock began plating the parts because police officers weren't cleaning the Glocks often enough..is this urban legend?

That grey look is from the anodizing process. The anodizing keeps the parts from rusting and makes them more durable. If you polish it too far you will remove the anodizing and the part could rust