polishing feed ramp on Jarvis barrel

[scorpion_7374]

Hi folks:) Last week, I ordered a Jarvis replacement barrel for my Glock 22 .40 S&W. I did this because of all the reports that I have heard about G22's going kB! due to the unsupported chamber at the 6 o'clock position, and I plan to reload for my G22 as I do for all my handguns. I know that the Jarvis has a fully supported chamber, as well as a somewhat tighter chamber. My questions are: 1. Will the tighter chamber increase the likelihood of a jam? And 2. I found out after I purchased my Jarvis barrel that the feed ramp doesn't come polished, and that service costs another $25 (I haven't received my barrel yet, but I am assuming that it is enroute to me). Is the lack of polishing on the feed ramp also going to cause jamming/feeding problems? Any feedback about this will be most appreciated.
Scorpion

[4eyes]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by scorpion_7374
[B]Hi folks:) I know that the Jarvis has a fully supported chamber,

Not true--support is slightly better than the new Glock chambers, but not fully supported.

as well as a somewhat tighter chamber. My questions are: 1. Will the tighter chamber increase the likelihood of a jam?

Chances are much greater with the Jarvis. Yours may be fine or you may have to work the feed/chamber transition area and there is a possibility that you will have to send the barrel back to open the chamber

And 2. I found out after I purchased my Jarvis barrel that the feed ramp doesn't come polished, and that service costs another $25 (I haven't received my barrel yet, but I am assuming that it is enroute to me). Is the lack of polishing on the feed ramp also going to cause jamming/feeding problems?


Easier to try it first and polish if necessary.

[Duck of Death]

*QUOTE*
support is slightly better than the new Glock chambers

I hadn't heard that the new Glock barrels have better support. Please give more info. Pictures if possible.

[4eyes]

There have been several pic threads here showing support of old vs. new feed/chamber areas of glock barrels. Timing was when the follower itterations started because the old followers didn't feed well in some of the new barrels.

[scorpion_7374]

Thanks for the info, 4eyes and Duck:). I am planning to reload for my .40, and I just hope that I won't experience a kB!.....that is my only concern. Besides using the Jarvis barrel, I only plan to use new, virgin brass to make my handloads (NEVER range brass), stay within SAAMI pressure specs (I almost always load on the light side...if the loads will operate the slide, then that's good enough for me), load only copper jacketed or coated bullets, and faithfully clean my gun after each shooting session. I hope this will be enough to keep me out of trouble. If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know....it will be deeply appreciated.
Scorpion

[4eyes]

Originally posted by scorpion_7374
I only plan to use new, virgin brass to make my handloads (NEVER range brass), stay within SAAMI pressure specs (I almost always load on the light side...if the loads will operate the slide, then that's good enough for me), load only copper jacketed or coated bullets, and faithfully clean my gun after each shooting session.

Commendable, but a bit expensive. Most high volume shooters use range/ once shot/many shot brass at 1 to 2 cents a piece (or no cost if you pick it up). And if you plan to shoot major, or less, pressures; I suggest that you include your Glock barrel in your load/shoot development. You may be pleasantly surprised.

For mild to major loads, I suggest you include Titegroup in your powder choices.

[Duck of Death]

I put a KKM in my G23 and shoot nothing but pick up brass. For the light loads there shot till the brass splits. My carry loads (155@1330) are loaded in used brass. In a good tight chamber w/good case support it is safe. I'm sure the Jarvis will serve you well. If you do have to polish the ramp use a Dremel, Flitz and felt wheels. Polish in the direction the bullet travels on the ramp.

[Bren]

Originally posted by scorpion_7374
Besides using the Jarvis barrel, I only plan to use new, virgin brass to make my handloads (NEVER range brass), stay within SAAMI pressure specs (I almost always load on the light side...if the loads will operate the slide, then that's good enough for me), load only copper jacketed or coated bullets,
Unless I miss my guess, it sounds like you are trying to turn out near-factory ammo but it will cost a lot more and take a lot more work. For instance, 1,000 rounds of Winchester .40 costs about $150 at Wal Mart, but using the cheapest new brass and jacketed bullets at Midway USA it would cost about $205 to load the same 1,000 rounds.

Why not just buy factory ammo and save both work and money?

Personally, I would use range brass and save $95 per thousand and $45 off of WWB ammo at Wal Mart.

[scorpion_7374]

Bren,
I guess I forgot to mention that I am going to load my new brass a number of times before I throw it away. The only reason I am starting with new brass is that most once-fired range brass has been fired out of a Glock with an unsupported, loose chamber. This tends to buldge the case near the web area which weakens it, and renders it permanently unsuitable for reloading. At least this is the consensus among most handloaders. I'm also planning to reload my once-fired factory ammo brass which I have fired out of my Jarvis barrel. But yes, you are absolutely right...if I were just going to load it one time, then I would go down to Wal-Mart and buy some factory ammo and save myself all that time and trouble.
Scorpion

[454]

Jarvis barrel will serve you well. I'd not worry about KB even in a stock Glock barrel. I've been reloading for my G22 for several years. Not a single problem. I get 5-6 loads from each case (starline, once-fired Win, AE). I use Nosler's 135 gr JHPs, they are cheap enough. Universal Clays seems to work well for me.