dkk73
04-08-2006, 00:03
Greetings trigger gurus,
I've made the following mods to my G27, intended to be a carry gun: $0.25 trigger job (Q-tips and Flitz polish only, no motorized tools nor grinding), stock Glock 3.5# connector, olive New York trigger spring.
The rationale is: I just like a firmer trigger, but wanted a better break than the 5lb connector offers.
The problem is: When I initially installed the new 3.5# connector, about 3 times in 20 the trigger pull would not snap the firing pin. On examination of the receiver (slide off, everything else in) it appeared that the trigger bar would ride back alongside the connector and not be forced down along the angled portion (necessary to release the pin catch from the sear). That is, it looked like the connector wasn't pressing out forcefully enough towards the right side of the gun to make the back end of the trigger bar consistently ride down along it.
After some research, I removed the connector and applied careful pressure outward, taking care to not create any new bends (modifying only the L near the base and straightening everything else). Actually, I think it was slightly bent near the top at the time I received it, so after applying pressure it was straighter. It looks like my 5# connector now.
Now the mechanism fires consistently (tested dry only so far). Though I believe I understand the underlying mechanics, I am not a gunsmith. So I thought I'd ask to see if anyone else has had this problem before.
Since the connector force (3.5 vs 5) looks to be a function of the slope of the ramped portion, I figured that it won't hurt much to have real positive contact between these parts. However, I didn't bend it way out; just to where it made consistent positive contact and looked like the other connector in profile.
Obviously I will test the heck out of this, or have it checked out, before I use this as a carry gun. The fact that the problem was originally intermittent makes me think I should take responsibility for pursuing it either way, though, in case it's something more subtle going on that I am missing.
Additional info: The connector does fit securely in the block and there is no play anywhere along the trigger, bar, and housing assembly. The NYT spring is well-seated. The gun worked fine for about 250 rounds before this with stock spring and connector.
Any advice appreciated.
Happy shooting,
DK
I've made the following mods to my G27, intended to be a carry gun: $0.25 trigger job (Q-tips and Flitz polish only, no motorized tools nor grinding), stock Glock 3.5# connector, olive New York trigger spring.
The rationale is: I just like a firmer trigger, but wanted a better break than the 5lb connector offers.
The problem is: When I initially installed the new 3.5# connector, about 3 times in 20 the trigger pull would not snap the firing pin. On examination of the receiver (slide off, everything else in) it appeared that the trigger bar would ride back alongside the connector and not be forced down along the angled portion (necessary to release the pin catch from the sear). That is, it looked like the connector wasn't pressing out forcefully enough towards the right side of the gun to make the back end of the trigger bar consistently ride down along it.
After some research, I removed the connector and applied careful pressure outward, taking care to not create any new bends (modifying only the L near the base and straightening everything else). Actually, I think it was slightly bent near the top at the time I received it, so after applying pressure it was straighter. It looks like my 5# connector now.
Now the mechanism fires consistently (tested dry only so far). Though I believe I understand the underlying mechanics, I am not a gunsmith. So I thought I'd ask to see if anyone else has had this problem before.
Since the connector force (3.5 vs 5) looks to be a function of the slope of the ramped portion, I figured that it won't hurt much to have real positive contact between these parts. However, I didn't bend it way out; just to where it made consistent positive contact and looked like the other connector in profile.
Obviously I will test the heck out of this, or have it checked out, before I use this as a carry gun. The fact that the problem was originally intermittent makes me think I should take responsibility for pursuing it either way, though, in case it's something more subtle going on that I am missing.
Additional info: The connector does fit securely in the block and there is no play anywhere along the trigger, bar, and housing assembly. The NYT spring is well-seated. The gun worked fine for about 250 rounds before this with stock spring and connector.
Any advice appreciated.
Happy shooting,
DK
