Essential 1911 Maintenance

[Robert McLeod]

What preventive maintenance procedures do you think every 1911 owner should know? What small repairs should every 1911 owner know how to perform on their own in order to keep from send the gun off to the gunsmith? Now, I am not talking about improvements in accuracy or reliability, just general maintenance.

Here is what I have so far:

Detail strip and clean slide.
Properly remove and install grip screw bushings.
Properly replace plunger tube.
Adjusting extractor tension.

Please discuss any other ideas that you may have.

[Rinehartdv]

After a range session I detail strip the entire pistol, clean lube and inspect each part. It's not that difficult and IMHO is a must.
I've replaced some parts myself but I also know my limitations.
Last night I removed the trigger and ground off the serrations and sanded the trigger face.
Do you have the tools to install a plunger tube? I have a SS replacement for the MIM tube but as this is my CCW piece I don't want it waiting in line @ the gunsmith. I'd be willing to send you a renters fee for the tool(s). Ray

[10mm4ever]

Removing the grip screw bushings would be very low on my list. I think it's a good practice to clean the firing pin/ channel, replace the recoil spring/buffer,clean the extractor/channel,check the extractor hook and inspect the plunger tube and ejector. Do this every 1,000-2,000 rounds and you should be fine. Keeping an eye on where the lower lugs are impacting isnt a bad idea either.

[Robert McLeod]

Originally posted by 10mm4ever
Removing the grip screw bushings would be very low on my list.


After some of the threads that I have seen on here, I think there are some people that don't know how to properly remove and install the grip bushings without risking damage to their pistol.

I am going to try and provide people that are new to the 1911 with some information that may help them out. Hopefully it will keep them from having to send their pistol to a gunsmith for minor repairs. Also, give them some information about preventive maintenance to keep it from breaking down in the first place.

I was just wanting to know what other 1911 users have ran into.

[auto45]

Depending on the model, a "series 80" user would have to look for "timing" issues, i.e. look at the plunger, FP etc for marks.

Also, the trigger screw adjustment can cause problems in all 1911s if not adjusted properly...and stay that way.

General safety checks like the disconnector working, grip safety, thumb safety, etc.

Magazine maintanence/check would be important.

Ammo spec/check just to avoid a "wasted" trip to the gunsmith.

I've had to repair plunger tubes, grip screw bushings, check extractors and one 1911 fail the disconnector safety check.

[jame]

I scrub mine downe with Hoppe's #9 and a brush or a little areosol Break Free, hit the bore with a brush, let it sit for a couple of hours, wipe down, and blow it out with the air compessor.

Some times a guy just has to realize that stuff just wears out, and spending an hour or so every week to save myself $50-100 two years from now doesn't make much sense.

[ccoker]

I do the same with all my guns for years, never had any problems
breakfree (or similiar), let it sit for a bit
and blow it out with an air compressor

if it comes out really nasty I might do it a few times
look for buildup around the breach and hit with a brush

on centerfire rifles I throughly clean the bore with various methods

[quantico]

Good barrel cleaning without causing damage is important to know... I also suggest understanding the firing pin and hammer stop removal so you can clean in there. Getting the gun field stripped is critical to shooting the 1911. Other than that just getting oil in all the places you need is about it for basic shooter maintainance.

[Butcher]

whats that bs in the kimber owners manual that came with my gun stressing the importance of changing out various springs every x # of rounds.

[jame]

Thant one ain't necessarily B.S.

Spring steel will distress over time, and your 1911 won't fuction properly. No biggie, really, as they're pretty cheap. Just buy one and replace it during the field strip/cleaning process....

[Robert McLeod]

Originally posted by Butcher
whats that bs in the kimber owners manual that came with my gun stressing the importance of changing out various springs every x # of rounds.


Do you have a Pro or Compact Series? Does it say to replace it every 2,000 rounds?

[Butcher]

i have a Custom TLE II
http://www.thegrounds.net/images/kimber2.jpg

are u saying i dont have to replace all those springs *that often* ??

[Rinspeed]

Originally posted by Butcher
i have a Custom TLE II
http://www.thegrounds.net/images/kimber2.jpg

are u saying i dont have to replace all those springs *that often* ??


Springs are cheap and a worn out one will cause damage. I always order them a couple at a time so I always have an extra. After you've spent $300 - 400 on ammo what's a $8 or $10 spring.

[Robert McLeod]

Originally posted by Butcher
i have a Custom TLE II
http://www.thegrounds.net/images/kimber2.jpg

are u saying i dont have to replace all those springs *that often* ??

What springs are they suggesting you replace? At what interval?

Here are the guidelines that the FBI uses for the fullsize Springfields.

"The guns are issued with five Wilson/Roger magazines. The agents are instructed to replace the magazine springs every 2,500 rounds, or twice a year, whichever comes first. The guns come with 18 lb. Wolff recoil springs, which need to be replaced every 5,000 rounds."

The FBI no longer issues the Wilson mags., but I am sure they still use the same guidelines for spring replacement. Maybe they don't, I am not real sure on that one.

Your fullsize Kimber should run fine if you replace the recoil spring every 5,000 rounds. I run 18.5# Wolffs in my Colt, I replace it every 5,000 rounds as well. I also replace my Wilson mag springs every 2,500 rounds or every six months, whichever come first.

[auto45]

If you buy chrome silicon springs you don't have to change out springs nearly as much. I had one with 7-8,000 rounds on the spring and it was the same length as a new one. What's the point of changing?

Basically, I think the "music wire" that most springs are made of is old technology and consumers just haven't gotten out of it...yet!

Wolff springs now sells chrome silicon spring also.

[jimbullet]

Chrome silicone springs are good. Cleaning is simply fieldstrip and once a year, would have a detail strip.

[Usingmyrights]

Originally posted by Robert McLeod
After some of the threads that I have seen on here, I think there are some people that don't know how to properly remove and install the grip bushings without risking damage to their pistol.

I am going to try and provide people that are new to the 1911 with some information that may help them out. Hopefully it will keep them from having to send their pistol to a gunsmith for minor repairs. Also, give them some information about preventive maintenance to keep it from breaking down in the first place.

I was just wanting to know what other 1911 users have ran into.

That'd be appreciated. I'm new to 1911s and would love some more insight on the maintain odds and ends.

[EdTracker]

I would recommend buying springs of various weights from say #12 to #20 that way you can tune your firearm to whatever load you have from powderpuff to full on +P+. Mostly a #16 or #18 spring is just fine for full power self defence loads.

Messing around with components is what makes 1911's fun (for me at least) and the zeal with which people defend the platform reminds me of Harley riders.

[jimbullet]

My personal choice is a 16 for defensive loads even for the likes of a corbon and as low as 14 on practice rounds with low powder charges