View Full Version : .25 Trigger Job Question
I have the link to the article but he has a tube of some kind of metal polish in the picture.
Can I use a dremel and auto polishing or rubbing compound to get the same effect or do I need to buy a special polish?
metal polish will work prob not paint polish
Skpotamus
09-09-2006, 23:37
I've used flitz metal polish, and a silver polish I got from walmart, both worked very well. Both are a finer grit, so they don't take as much metal off when you're polishing. I think rubbing compound would be too course to do a good job. just my $0.02
vetkaw63
09-11-2006, 18:35
Hi,
Can somebody post a link to that article?
Thanks,
Mike
dglockster
09-12-2006, 10:13
Ask and ye shall receive:
http://www.alpharubicon.com/mrpoyz/glock/
I use rubbing compound.
Works really well.
USPSA Guy
09-25-2006, 14:11
The polishing compound that comes in most of the dremel kits works well too if you want to be just a "bit" more aggressive than Flitz. I always use Flitz for the final mirror finish.
Glock4Life
09-25-2006, 19:12
I've used auto buffing compound with success for years coupled with a soft wheeled Dremel attachment. My favorite though is Maguires Medium Cut Cleaner (Maguires #1). Good mirror finish every time.
Originally posted by Glock4Life
I've used auto buffing compound with success for years coupled with a soft wheeled Dremel attachment. My favorite though is Maguires Medium Cut Cleaner (Maguires #1). Good mirror finish every time.
really?
Glock4Life
09-28-2006, 12:45
Originally posted by wewo
really?
Really. It works great.
I used a dremmel with craytex wheel. Worked fine, I don't know how one would take too much metal off, it's a polishing operation not a grinding operation. Do people not understand polishing metal as oposed to removing metal to alter clearances and angles?
SpectrePilot
09-30-2006, 18:37
The only contact point that really makes a difference is where the trigger bar contacts the connector. NEVER polish the firing pin or trigger bar cruciform sear engagement areas as any change in angle could make the firearm unsafe.
A good quality lubricant on the trigger bar and connector contact point and about 500 rounds gives a similar effect.
is the idea to remove metal or simply coat it with polish, or both? I have a very fine synthetic auto polish (Klasse) that is very long lasting, anyone think that will work?
The idea is to ONLY polish up the parts. DO NOT remove any metal.
You are not 'coating it with polish', you want to remove the top coating (turns a dremel felt wheel black) so that the parts slide together better.
Glock4Life
10-03-2006, 20:18
Originally posted by artjs
The idea is to ONLY polish up the parts. DO NOT remove any metal.
You are not 'coating it with polish', you want to remove the top coating (turns a dremel felt wheel black) so that the parts slide together better.
:agree:
NoMoreSmiths
10-06-2006, 15:26
The steps are detailed, the mental picture appears clear, going slowly seems of paramount importance; now if the process just came with a little man whereby you add water and he becomes life-sized expert on the process - I'd have the last "portion of confidence" that would guarantee I would not be seeing my local gunsmith with a "bag-o-parts"!
Even at what some "wet behind the ears" youngsters consider "old", I can still build you a 800 horsepower race motor; but a handle with inner parts intimidates me. Go figure.
John
:laughabove:
Mike of Oregon
10-09-2006, 23:47
I hate to be a nit picker but polishing removes metal. Very small, maybe even microscopic amounts, but it removes metal. What you are doing with polish (the abrasive) on a rotary cloth wheel is removing the tops of microscopic peaks on the metal surface so when metal rubs against metal it does so with less resistance from the rough surface. Smooth surfaces slide over each other easier.
Mike
Glock4Life
10-10-2006, 11:29
Originally posted by Mike of Oregon
I hate to be a nit picker but polishing removes metal. Very small, maybe even microscopic amounts, but it removes metal.
Once again, I agree. It's just that I've been down that path of explanation many times and have grown lazy and fail to mention it anymore. I figure most everyone will end up doing it correctly by using the "don't remove metal" bit. In theory, you are inarguably correct however. :thumbsup:
vBulletin® v3.7.3, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.