help me out guys

[delG30]

I posted this question on another thread but got no response so I'll ask it here.

The trigger pull on my 21 (my latest addition) seems very heavy compared to my other models. I know I need to measure it with a scale but haven't gotten around to it. I'm a big guy, and the gun feels great in my hand, but I just don't shoot it very well.

My G30 shoots much better for me for some reason. I've got to admit that the G30 and G17 both feel better in my hand than the 21. Could the trigger do this or is the larger grip affecting me more than I think?

I really want to love this gun but am getting frustrated.

[G-30Jet]

A few possible reasons for a stiff release could be lack of proper lubrication, worn trigger related parts, overpolished parts,debris in the mechanism.
Most of these problems are easily taken care of if you can take the pistol apart. There are online sources to get the information you seek.The possibility exists that you will only have to clean the interior parts to restore proper operation.

Edited to state that you may also have the Newyork trigger group installes.

[Arc Angel]

:) OK, how to get a really smooth Glock trigger? One way to smooth out a Glock is to use a high tech gun grease like Sentry Solutions, ‘Hi-Slip’ grease or Browning’s, ‘Midas Grease’ on the cruciform and connector angle. Another way is to keep the rails and front edges of the dust cover lubricated – again with a light high tech gun grease.

http://www.browning.com/products/catalog/accessories/detail.asp?value=006J&cat_id=124&type_id=12988C

http://www.sentrysolutions.com/HiSlipkew.shtml

It really does help if you take the time to completely polish the following items: (1) lock block, (2) striker, (3) safety plunger, (4) connector, (5) trigger bar, (6) extractor and extractor depressor rod, and (7) the tops of the slide rails.

I used my Dremel Tool and several felt wheels with Flitz Polish on them to polish my trigger mechanisms. (You could, also, use Simichrome polish.) I ran the tool at, about, 5,000 rpm. and applied almost no downward pressure while polishing. The whole job took me, something like, 3 hours to complete.

Make sure you get a 3.5# connector before you polish the internal mechanism. Personally, I would recommend a new Lone Wolf 3.5# connector; the LWD’s seem to have less, ‘front-end mush’ as well as less drag than any of the other aftermarket connectors I’ve tried.

If you use a Dremel tool instead of Q-Tips and elbow grease to do your polishing: Hold the metal parts with your bare hands in order to avoid overheating any metal; and, do NOT bear down or use force while polishing - Just let the wheel do the work! In order to keep the dust down, use no more polish on the spinning wheel than you actually need in order to bring up a bright shine. The usual spots to concentrate on are described

HERE! (http://www.alpharubicon.com/mrpoyz/glock/)

I used Wolff, 'extra power' (6#) firing pin AND trigger springs in my G-21’s; but, if you’re not comfortable with the idea of changing springs, then, just stay with the factory standard springs. In spite of using heavy springs, my own G-21 carry pistols break very smoothly at, about, 5# - A trigger pull weight I consider to be ideal. **

Finally I installed one of LWD’s, ‘Glock Ultimate Trigger Stops’. (Identical to a standard factory unit except for a small adjustment set screw.) AFTER I was positive I had the correct trigger adjustment, I epoxied the set screw permanently in place with, ‘PC-7’ epoxy.

The before and after difference in my G-21 triggers is remarkable! These newly modified triggers are very smooth; firing from reset is, almost, too fast; and, for everyday carry, my G-21’s have proven themselves to be every bit as safe as they ever were! As always, I simply make sure that I continue to keep my finger outside the trigger guard and everything works exactly as well as it should.

In case you should need to know: It’s NOT difficult to take a Glock apart. I was afraid to attempt it for 3 years; then, one day I called my friends at Lone Wolf, had a brief talk with them, and took mine apart for the first time – It turned out to be a piece of cake!

All you need is a Glock armorer’s tool and a small bladed screwdriver with a 3-4” shaft. (The blade has to be narrow enough to fit into the groove the striker lug rides in, and the shaft has to be long enough to reach the magazine release spring.) You don’t really have to; but, usually, it’s a good idea to work from left-to-right; in exactly the same way an AR15 is disassembled, and reverse the direction from right-to-left in order to reassemble.

The toughest part is learning how to separate the trigger bar cruciform from the trigger housing unit; but, once you’ve done it, you’ll never forget how: Hold the trigger in your right-hand, and the housing unit and cruciform in your left. Pull the right end of the trigger bar forward, widening the distance between your two hands, in order to get a little stretch in the trigger spring. Next, move your right-hand, in, toward your body centerline. This creates a horizontal 15 degree angle between the cruciform, and the housing unit. Now gently lift the trigger bar in a, slightly canted, upward direction and, voilŕ, the two pieces will come apart.

The Glockmeister website has good pictures of how to take a Glock apart. Make sure the trigger spring is installed exactly in the form of an, ‘S’. Do not install it as a backward, ‘S’. Check to see that the slide stop lever spring is UNDERNEATH the upper pin after it is installed. That’s pretty much it!

http://glockmeister.com/glockinf.shtml

That should do it for ya! :thumbsup:





** NOTES: Remember a 3.5# connector is actually a 4.25-4.75# connector. (With either a heavier trigger or firing pin spring you will approach or slightly exceed a 5# trigger pull.) The Wolff, 'extra power' (6#) firing pin spring used in my G-21 pistols increases the trigger pull weight by a good 1/2#; but, at the same time, it also guarantees even the hardest primer ignition.

Yes, I know what it says on the Wolff website about using a 3.5# connector with an, 'extra power' trigger spring; so, I was careful to talk with several knowledgeable parties before I made this change. (In my pistols, the balance between a 6# firing pin spring, and a 6# trigger return spring seems to more than even things out.)

Nevertheless anytime you change anything on your Glock pistol, you really do need to go to the range and wring everything out with, at least, several hundred rounds of fire. In my experience, this is the only way to figure out what does and doesn't work, well, with your particular pistol. ;)

[delG30]

really appreciate such a detailed reply.