How do you remove a delta-ring assembly?

[firefly]

I'm considering purchasing a troy handguard for my m4 with a continuous picatinny rai. The installation calls for removal of the delta ring and "ta-da" you're ready to clamp it on without removal of the barrel, front sight or gas tube. Supposedly, this can be done relatively easily with a dremel. I removed the stock handguard and glanced at the delta ring; pretty close tolerance to the barrel nut and doesn't exactly leave much room for error. So, whose done it and how hard is it? I google searched for a step-by-step to no avail. It almost seems like one of those things you get right in the middle of and wish you'd left up to a gunsmith. Your experience and comments are welcome.

[RMTactical]

It'd be wiser to just remove the FSB instead IMO.

[jrs93accord]

It can be done with a dremel and a good heavy duty cutoff wheel, but with extreme care. I did mine a few months ago to install a TI MRF-C unit. I made one cut directly above the gas tube and two more equi-distant from the gas tube. You have to be very careful not to cut the gas tube. At that point, I took a pair of pliers and twisted the ring off. You will also need to remove the welded spring. Both of these pieces will be rendered useless afterwards. The process is not hard, just a little time consuming. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, I would highly recommend have a gunsmith do it. Of course, the other option is to remove the FSB and go from there.

[firefly]

I believe the FSB is the front sight base right (sorry I'm a new-b). Then I would need to remove the gas tube and figure out how to remove the d-ring and its spring, right? Is this actually easier than simply cutting off the D-ring?

[Critter]

Even if you remove the front sight base, the delta ring is held in behind the barrel nut. I believe this unit requires the Delta ring be gone. The reason they mention the FSB doesn't have to come off is that it uses the handguard cap as the forward mounting point.

Keep a real steady hand and you should be okay. I would at least suggest you remove the gas tube and rotate the delta assembly around as you cut and cut on the bottom of the upper receiver, you will have more clearence there. I actually think it would be wiser to remove the barrel and FSB and get a free float system for the amount you'll be spending on those particular handguards.

[biggl35]

The deta ring assembly is actually held together with a snap ring.

But I would recommend that you use the dremel method, as it isnt that big of a deal.

Use generous amounts of masking tape to cover areas that are close to where you intend to cut, that way if the dremel gets away from you, you wont nick the barrel or the reciever.

Have faith in yourself, it isnt a difficult task.

[Critter]

Originally posted by biggl35
The deta ring assembly is actually held together with a snap ring.



There is a groove behind the barrel nut for the snap ring. The delta ring, or handguard slip ring, is held against the back of the barrel nut, then the weld spring is sandwiched between it and a snap ring in the groove. The snap ring keeps the assembly on the end of the barrel while it is assembled. All of these have a gap that needs to be aligned for the gas tube to pass through. If you remove the gas tube and rotate the assembly around to the bottom you will have a much easier time cutting it as there will be more clearance. With this cut, you should be able to break thedelta ring off and pry the weld spring and snap ring off, or rotate them around again for another cut.

I still maintain there are much better options out there if you can find a smith locally to remove and replace the barrel and front sight for the same amount of money plus labor, or choose a different handguard at less than half the price if it's just the rails you are looking for and not 'the look'.

[firefly]

It never ceases to amaze me the vast amount of knowledge that is available here at GT. I appreciate everyones input and plan on looking over the D-ring assembly to decide if I want to give it a go or take it to a smith. If anyone knows where I can find a pictorial of a D-ring assembly being cut off, let me know. Thanks

[jrs93accord]

Originally posted by firefly
It never ceases to amaze me the vast amount of knowledge that is available here at GT. I appreciate everyones input and plan on looking over the D-ring assembly to decide if I want to give it a go or take it to a smith. If anyone knows where I can find a pictorial of a D-ring assembly being cut off, let me know. Thanks

This is not very detailed, but this is what I went by. It worked for me.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

Scroll about halfway down until you see this:

Install your own free-float rail system, step by step:

TROY MRF-C step by step:

[crazymoose]

Honestly, I'd either A) spend the $50 on tools you need to be able to take the barrel off (and use the free guide on ar15.com), or B) have a smith do it. Why ruin a part that you might want to use on a rifle down the road?

[firefly]

...good point. And, the same amout to have a smith do the job.

[1811guy2]

So, your options are:
1) Buy your own tools and remove it - $50
2) Have a gunsmith remove it - $25 - $50 depending on your gunsmith
3) Dremel the sucker off - $0

I would go with #3. The parts your are losing are worth less than $10.00, and are very easy to find in case you decide to swith it back. It is not that difficult to remove them. If you plan on building more AR's in the future, then buy the tools.

I have the Troy MRF-C on my Mforgery. They are rock solid, look graet and function perfectly.

[firefly]

...and so the pendulum swings. Seriously though, I will take a look and see how hard it would be to dremel it off without removing the FSB and the gas tube. I may even give it a shot. If it looks starts to not look good, I can always stop short and take it to a smith. I'll decide tomarrow and let you all know how it ends up.

[jrs93accord]

Originally posted by 1811guy2
...I have the Troy MRF-C on my Mforgery. They are rock solid, look graet and function perfectly.

Same here.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m8/jamesrea_2006/041_41.jpg

I like mine a lot.

[firefly]

...oh yeah, it's all but done now!

[gruntmedik]

This is ironic! Just this afternoon, I cut my delta ring off so I could install my Midwest Industries MCTAR-21. Cutting it off was easy--I made the 1st cut about even with the ejection port, making sure my cut-off wheel was in-between the points of the barrel nut. I went slow and took my time. Then, I turned the upper so I was 180 degrees from the 1st cut, and cut again. There will be a small amount of metal remaining, that is easily broken by using a large screw driver in the cut you just made, with a twisting motion. Here is a pic of the ring after I cut it off. You can see the thin portion of metal I was referring to. This really was an easy job to do.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b180/gruntmedik/Deltaring.jpg

[firefly]

What are the chances, really? Thanks for the pic. Doesn't look too scary. I'll give it a try tomarrow for sure. We'll see how it turns out.

[plow78]

I did mine last night w/ a dremel. Set the dremel on low speed to make a outline cut then to medium speed and take your time checking your cut every once and a while to see how deep you actually are. I also made two cuts as described. I then slightly pried the two pieces apart and they poped off. then took the ribs/ c clips off and vola.

[firefly]

Oh yes...As soon as I figure out how to upload pics from my wifes Christmas Casio, I'll show you all pics of my Bushy with a newly floated GG&G handrail. I ran by a local AR custom shop on my way to get some blades for my dremel, saw a free-float rail I really liked and bought it along with a yankee hill buis. The kind shop personnel installed it for free. Funny thing was, I didn't even know the shop existed and its not even a mile from where I work. Reguardless, I truly appreciate everyones input and advice. I'll get the pics up soon. Thanks again.