noob to MilSurp questions.

[shooter05]

OK I am applying for my 03FFL and will be getting a M44 first. I have a question on when I get any type of milsurp rifle.
Do I need to have it headspace checked and stuff before I attempt to shoot it? I will go over it heavily and clean it completely when I first get it but wondered about having a smith check it and what I should expect to pay for that.

[Bushbacker]

It's a good idea to have a gunsmith check the headspace before shooting it. There's no guarantees that it's safe unless you do.

[shooter05]

Originally posted by Bushbacker
It's a good idea to have a gunsmith check the headspace before shooting it. There's no guarantees that it's safe unless you do.

I have been searching for a place to get a "field gauge" in 7.62x54r and have only found one place.
I read where some swear by nogo, go or field gauges. The feild gauge seems to be the hard to find one. any reccomendations?
I'm going to be buying quite a few guns and figure if I go ahead and buy a field gauge and do some reading I could handle it myself.

[Marine8541]

I don't have my surplus weapons checked by a smith but I do have some common GNG gauges but even if I didn't i wouldn't have every rifle sent to a smith unless I thought there may be some reason to do so.

[shooter05]

I guess I'll have to get some go nogo gauges. The field gauge doesn't require bolt disassembly so its easy to use in a gunhop or at a show without ticking anyone off.

[Rick O'Shay]

If I buy one that's all matching, I shoot it. If it's not all matching, I have the gunsmith gauge it for me.

[LonghornGlock]

If the gun isn't obviously in unshootable condition I prefer testing it with the old 20ft of balerstring and ducking behind good cover method myself:supergrin: . Never had one fail yet, but seriously after using the string method take out the empty case and look it over carefully for any obvious irregularities, cracks, blown primer or serious stretching around the case's base. Also check the bolt for any obvious problems. That saved $35-40 bucks buys a lot cheap surplus ammo.:)

[ndbullet500]

I use the same rule of thumb as Rick O'Shay. Note however, that it is easy to get lax about really being as careful about checking it as you should as the numbers add up without problems.

I was reminded to be more cautious after 2 punctured primers on a No.3 Mk 1 SMLE Enfield. Actually a ShTLE, WWI vintage, IIRC.

I had cleaned it thoroughly, and eyeballed it for obvious problems, but did not check firing pin protrusion or headspace. The Enfield is a safer than average design, in my opinion, and I suppose I could have let that influence me, but it was more the lack of a gauge. So I let it slide.

The first one I though it was CLP blowing back on my shooting glasses. I gave it a once over, glanced at the brass and didn't see anything amiss. I have no idea why I did look at the primer, but I didn't.

Fired a couple more of the 5 rounds I had intended, and got another bunch of spots on my glasses. That got my attention, I had a reality check, and realized I had a problem. 2 primers pierced. And yep, it was headspace. Lesson learned. The Enfield is very well designed to prevent injury in just such an event, so it was an easy lesson.

But I still do not headspace every Mil-Surp. K31s (matching) and Mosin-Nagants (if arsenaled and matching) I don't do. Nor did I headspace my Garand from CMP. But older firearms, especially if not matching, get a real checkout.