cerama-coated P3AT slide

[dbotos]

Sandblasted, washed with hot water and soap, blew drew, and applied coating. Let dry 30 min and baked at 350 *F for 1 hour. Extractor spring bolt hole was a nice place to stick a 6-32 screw to hold while painting and to hang from while baking. Patiently waiting for it to finish cooling so I can see what it looks like back on the frame. Did a P11 slide with this same stuff a while back that I was rather pleased with. Highly recommend this stuff to anyone looking for a nice tough black finish:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=455475

[ubernoob]

Nice job, it looks good!

Wow, 30$ for 4oz though. That's painful. Has anyone tried ceramic engine paint?

http://www.autobarn.net/dupenpainglo.html

[justa shooter]

Great looking slide! I have a P11 that needs the slide refinished and have been debating between this type of finish and nickel plate. You make a strong argument for using the home kit!

[dbotos]

Originally posted by ubernoob
Nice job, it looks good!

Wow, 30$ for 4oz though. That's painful. Has anyone tried ceramic engine paint?

http://www.autobarn.net/dupenpainglo.html

I think the Cerama-coat used to be cheaper. I remember buying the first can from Midway (which I used to do the P11 and P3AT slide with) and it was somewhere around $12-15. When I bought the second can (which I haven't opened yet), the price had shot up.

That's a good idea with the engine(500 *F)/high-temp(1200 *F) paint. That stuff comes in a ton more colors:

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/colors/highheat.html

I have a can of the 500 *F stuff downstairs and it looks like it's just air cure. Also had a can of Plasti-Kote 1500 *F stuff that said to cure at 650 *F for one hour or by running the vehicle's engine for an hour. The 1200 *F stuff from Dupli-Color says it "resists oil, gas grease, rust, salt, humidity, and solvents". Sounds like some attributes you'd want in a gun finish. I need to find an abused 1911 to fix up so I can paint it lime green and purple. :supergrin:

P.S. DuraCoat is another option. Looks like it's about $16/4oz or $30/8oz. Need an airbrush or HVLP gun to apply, but that could be an excuse to buy another tool. Comes in a bunch of colors too:

http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?TabID=8&Categoryid=11335&categorystring=649***10400***

I saw DuraCoat on a buddy's AR and it looked good.

[JCW355]

That looks good, my kel-tec has alot of wear on the slide being in my pocket. I'll definitely remember the cerama-coat.

[moondog049]

I'm happy with the 1200* engine paint I used on my Ruger .22 MKI pistol, been 2 yrs. It will soften with brake cleaner.

Applied it like Durabake.

[NoGo]

I'm a fan of nice flat black finishes, but have never had success with high wear areas, using spray & bake coatings.

When it starts wearing off from daily carry, send it to Jack for a $25 Nickle plating job. It'll last as long as the gun.

http://www.gunsmith.fuselier.com/slideoffer.html

[Prvt. Toter]

+1 for the Ceramacoat. Coated my .380 back up when it got looking beat up... Did a mask and spray prior to bake. This has been on the gun for going on two years, carry it daily... a few scuff marks in the finish, but looking good over all.


Pics below with carry gear...
OMC (later became AMT) .380 backup, Tex Shoemaker leather, CKRT for the cutting needs, and pen and pad for my CRS...
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o318/Huntbuck/EDCRIGII.jpg

OMC (later became AMT) .380 backup, Tex Shoemaker leather, G23c, Nelson Patriot Leather...
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o318/Huntbuck/Duty.jpg;)

[jaybird79]

Toter, your sig line rules ! You get :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[Prvt. Toter]

Thanks, I think it is a general Montra here on GT... I try to practice it as well...

Cheers


:thumbsup: