Building my first AR, any suggestions?

[Iowa Hick]

I just started building my first AR and so far only have a stripped lower and a lower parts kit on the way. I know I want a flat top with a 20" barrel and a collapsible stock, but beyond that I'm pretty open. So my main question is what companies build good parts and which ones should I avoid. My stripped lower was made by a Accucast in Ottumwa, IA and my parts kit is from Rock River Arms and includes a two stage trigger and a pachmyar grip.

I will probably want a free floating hand guard with some accessory rails on it. I'm also thinking of getting some flip up sights if I can find any I like. I'm thinking about an Aimpoint, so if anyone knows of a cheap place to order one or a better alternative let me know.

Thanks

[bukn77]

you might look at the eotech for a sight. I personally prefer it over the aimpoint. If you wanted to save a little more money you could buy the bushnell holosight. Its the same as the eotech without the "armor" I believe. I wouldn't put the holosight xlp on though; I would get the normal holosight.

[Iowa Hick]

I'll have to check out the Eotech, I've looked at the bushnell holosight and never really cared for it.

[Iowa Hick]

Just ordered a Colt stripped upper.

[1811guy2]

Don't skimp. Get what you want now. You will just end up replacing it later if you compromise.

[Iowa Hick]

Originally posted by 1811guy2
Don't skimp. Get what you want now. You will just end up replacing it later if you compromise.

I'm leaning more towards this train of thought all the time. The only problem is where to stop. I decided I wanted an Aimpoint, so I started looking for one. Then I decided that for the price difference I would rather have an M3, now I'm debating whether it would be worth another $150 over the price of an M3 to get an M4. Oh well, tax return should be here soon.

Anything I should look for when I order a bolt assembly? How bout stocks, anybody got a recommendation for a fairly solid comfortable collabsible stock? Or a good free floating hand guard?

Thanks

[1811guy2]

CMT M16 bolt/carrier assy. from G&R tactical
Magpul mil-spec CTR stock
LaRue or Daniel Defense handguard

[ArXane]

Originally posted by 1811guy2
CMT M16 bolt/carrier assy. from G&R tactical
Magpul mil-spec CTR stock
LaRue or Daniel Defense handguard

Great advice right there :thumbsup:

[M4Warrior]

While shopping for an Aimpoint, remember that you will also need a quality mount for it. LaRue Tactical has good combo deals on Aimpoints with their mounts included. IMHO, they are the best mounting option as they are throw-lever but still hold zero very well. I have had mixed results with other companies such as ARMS mounts.

M4W

[Iowa Hick]

I just ordered a CMT Bolt carrier group, an M4 stock, a charging handle and the parts I needed to finish my upper from Bravo Company.

Now I just need a barrel and handguard.

[bdh_1]

Oops, trigger pins are different not sure about the pins for upper/lower....

[Iowa Hick]

Originally posted by bdh_1
Colt pins are larger than standard, no?

Crap, I did not know that. Is there any way to make it work anyway or am I just screwed?

[bdh_1]

I think I found a good answer for you...

Colt owners often refer to having a small or large hole upper receiver (and corresponding lower receiver). Small hole receivers of .250" are the "milspec", but during early production by Colt for the civilian market, they produced rifles utilizing a .315" spec, so as to preclude use of military uppers on civilian lowers. This production lasted until roughly 1993-1994. As a general rule of thumb all Colt "unblocked" lower receivers, are large hole, while pre-ban "blocked" lower receivers represent transition years where occasional variations popped up.

You shouldn't have to worry at all.

[Iowa Hick]

Thanks alot, my upper should come next week, if it doesn't work I'll just save it for my next build and get a Colt lower for it.

[Iowa Hick]

Just an update, I got all of my parts except the free floating hand guard. So far everything seems to fit together great, there was no issue with the pins. I just bought an Aimpoint Comp ML3 off of ebay, now I need to look for a good mount.

As soon as I get my handguard I'll check the headspace, is there any other checks that I should do before firing it the first time?

Thanks

[Skydivn Shooter]

Make sure your sights are lined up on the target.:animlol:

I'm kidding. Have fun. I'm right in the middle of my first build also. Enjoy!

[aaronrkelly]

Originally posted by Iowa Hick
Just an update, I got all of my parts except the free floating hand guard. So far everything seems to fit together great, there was no issue with the pins. I just bought an Aimpoint Comp ML3 off of ebay, now I need to look for a good mount.

As soon as I get my handguard I'll check the headspace, is there any other checks that I should do before firing it the first time?

Thanks

Heres a checklist from AR15.com

--EXTERIOR EXAMINATION
-Unload the rifle and verify clear.
-Check the rifle for any damage from being dropped. Check the muzzle, front and rear sights, hand guards, barrel, buttstock, and sight alignment.
-Ensure that the drain hole in the upper buttstock is clear.
-Check steel parts for rust and porosity.
-Check for any parts that may be loose on the rifle. Check the pistol grip, buttstock, front sight assembly, barrel, and the flash suppressor.
-Pull charging handle back to check carrier for any binding or roughness.
-Check the bolt catch tension and range of motion; depress bottom of bolt catch and retract carrier, check for binding of carrier on the bolt catch.
-Check the magazine catch tension and range of motion. The magazine catch latch should sit flush in its slot and its threaded end should be flush with the surface of the magazine catch button.
-Check that the ejection port cover functions in the open and closed positions. Make sure that the “C” clip is on the ejection port cover hinge pin and that the ejection port cover spring is properly installed.
-Operate safety and check for proper function, tension, and range of motion.
-Check the trigger pull and disconnector engagement; perform the “function check”.
-Check that charging handle locks into upper receiver easily.
-Check that the “paddle” of the bolt catch is not hitting the outside of the upper receiver.
-Ensure that the gas tube roll pin is present.
-With the bolt slightly out of battery, ensure that the forward assist fully closes the bolt.

---INSPECTION OF UPPER
-Pivot upper open/ “shotgun”, you should feel the buffer pushing against the carrier when you do this, check the takedown pin for ease of movement and fit.
-Check that the bolt carrier moves easily from the locked position to the recoil position by moving it with your finger, not with the charging handle.
-Check to make sure that the rear of the carrier is flush with the end of the upper receiver when the carrier is fully forward.
-Separate the upper and lower receivers. Make sure the pivot pin moves easily and is secure.
-Remove the bolt carrier and the charging handle.
-Ensure that the auto sear clearance cut is present.
-On A2, sights make sure that the drain hole under the elevation wheel lock screw is clear.
-Ensure that the takedown pin lug has the proper bevels and facets and that the pinhole is chamfered and oblong.
-Check the charging handle for damage and straightness, check for damage to the upper where the charging handle locks in place.
-Clean and inspect the bore, look for excessive wear, rings, scratches, or other damage. Look for evidence of chrome plating around the muzzle and chamber.
-Check the crown of the barrel for burrs and wear.
-Check the end of the gas tube for excessive wear or damage.
-Inspect the inside of the upper for damage, such as cracks or wear around the cam pin clearance cut.
-Check the gap between the receiver and the barrel extension; it should be no more than 0.012”.
-Inspect the feed ramps for smoothness and completeness.
-On A2, sights make sure that the rear sight base hits the receiver on the last whole click of the elevation wheel. Check the alignment of the 3/8 or 3/6 with the index mark on the receiver.
-On A2 sights, run the rear sight base to its highest elevation, ensure that it does not rock back, or twist more that it does in its lowest position.

---INSPECTION OF BOLT CARRIER
-Check the carrier key. Make sure that the key is tight, the screws are tight and staked in, and thee is no damage to the front of the key. Use a wrench to make sure the carrier key screws are not broken.
-Operate the bolt to make sure it moves smoothly in the carrier.
-Remove the firing pin retaining pin, the firing pin, and the cam pin, with the bolt in the unlocked position stand the bolt carrier on end. The bolt should not slip into the bolt carrier.
-Remove and inspect the bolt, inspect the locking lugs for damage or excessive wear, ensure that there is a swage on the cam pin hole.
-Check the firing pin retaining pin for damage and straightness. If the firing pin retaining pin is bent, then the hammer may be dragging on the firing pin.
-Check the cam pin, firing pin, and the gas rings for damage and wear.
-Check the firing pin protrusion. Use a gauge or calibrated eyeball.
-Depress the ejector to check its tension and to make sure the ejector goes flush with or below the bolt face.
-Check the extractor’s tension and range of motion using a cartridge case. Check it in both the locked and unlocked positions in the bolt carrier.
-Remove the extractor. Check the pin and hook for damage, and check the spring and bumper.
-Check to make sure that the gas tube does not bind in the carrier key and for proper gas tube alignment.
-Clean and inspect the chamber, look for scratches, rings or other damage.
-Reassemble the bolt carrier; make sure that the head of the firing pin retaining pin is flush or below the surface of the bolt carrier.
-Slide the carrier and charging handle back into the upper receiver, lock the charging handle in place, and hold the bolt carrier to the rear.
-With the upper at a 40 angle to the ground release the bolt carrier and check that it locks fully into the barrel extension under its own weight.
-Check the headspace. The barrel must take a civilian or military GO gage; most military barrels will also accept the civilian NOGO gage.

---INSPECTION OF LOWER
-Trigger guard should not protrude into the magazine well.
-Insert a magazine into the magazine well and ensure that it drops free.
-Check the pivot pin, and takedown pin for wear and fit, they should be snug but slide easily.
-Check disconnector engagement: with the trigger forward, rotate the hammer to just short of the cocked position; the tip of the disconnector should almost touch the middle hammer hook. Holding the trigger to the rear, cock the hammer and release the trigger, the trigger should catch the hammer, and the hammer should smoothly slide out from under the disconnector hook.
-Do not allow the hammer to strike the lower receiver or the bolt catch.
-Remove the hammer and check the hammer spring for proper placement and tension. Inspect the middle hammer hook, lower hammer hook, and the “J” spring for damage. Ensure that stake retaining the “J” spring is present.
-Remove the trigger and disconnector. Check for proper installation of the trigger spring and that the disconnector spring is present.
-Check the hook of the disconnector for damage.
-Inspect the trigger, check the tension of the trigger and disconnector spring, and look for wear or damage on the sear face of trigger.
-Ensure that the disconnector slides easily in the trigger slot.
-Check the inside of the lower for foreign matter, such as a primer in the pistol grip hole.
-Remove the buffer and spring and inspect them for damage; such as small indents in the face of the buffer caused by the buffer retaining pin. Check the buffer spring for proper length; 11 ¾”-13 ½” for rifles 10 1/16”-11 ¼” for carbines.
-Check the buffer retaining pin for function and range of motion.
-Check the buttstock screws and lower receiver extension for tightness.
-Reinstall the buffer and spring.
-Reinstall the trigger, disconnector, and hammer.
-When installing the hammer the hammer spring legs must be on top of the trigger pin and in the outside annular groove on the trigger pin. Failure to do so will allow the trigger pin to move. The wide end of the disconnector spring goes into the hole in the trigger.

-Reassemble the upper and lower receivers.
-Check to make sure that the charging handle does not drag on the “bridge” of the lower receiver.
-Look into the magazine well to ensure that the upper receiver does not overhang the magazine well.
-Insert an empty magazine and check for fit and function of magazine catch and bolt stop. The magazine should release smoothly and insert without undue force. Pull the bolt to the rear with the charging handle. The bolt should lock to the rear.

---THE RIFLE IS READY TO BE TEST FIRED---

---TEST FIRING PROCEDURE---
-Unload the rifle and verify that it is clear.
-Check the bore for obstructions.
-Load the rifle with one round from the magazine. Use quality ammunition and a proven magazine for this.
-Aim downrange and fire, the bolt should catch on the bolt stop. Hold the rifle as loose as possible.
-Reload and repeat the process if the rifle does not lock open Depress the bottom of the bolt stop before firing this time. This allows for weak magazine springs, sticky followers, or an overly strong bolt catch spring.
-If the bolt does not lock open then there is a gas system problem. Investigate and repair the problem.
-If it only locks open with the bolt stop depressed, repeat the process with a different magazine. If the rifle still fails to function then look at the bolt stop as a probable culprit.
-If it does lock open then continue to the grouping phase.
-At your favorite zero distance, fire a group. Three, six, ten rounds it doesn’t matter. Look for center wind and mechanical zero on the front sight. The rifle should shoot somewhere near those settings. Adjust the windage if it is excessive, from the front sight, with a rawhide mallet. If the elevation or windage is greater than can be adjusted for at close range, there could be serious problems with the rifle. The barrel may be bent or the sights may be crooked or mounted too high.
-Your windage zero should be within five clicks of center wind/mechanical zero at 100 yards/91.4 metres. I prefer my rear sight to be a centered as possible as it allows me to get on the sights faster.

---ADDENDUM---

-The Army considers groups of four centimeters at twenty-five meters to be good enough. Your opinion will vary. Four centimeters at 25 meters is equivalent to nearly 5.5MOA.
-The Army zeros their rifles at 25 meters; they also believe that a scared kid knee deep in mud, using his dead friend as a rifle rest can detect and effectively engage an enemy squad at 800 meters. Use your own discretion where your life is concerned. Look at your area of operations and determine what distances and targets you will encounter, work backwards from there.
-The only way to know if your rifle works is to shoot the hell out of it using the same kind of ammunition and magazines each time. The brand name, the origin of the parts does not matter one bit. All that matters is function. Rifles that do not work one hundred percent are a liability and only a moron would keep one that doesn’t. I would take a functioning gun show special over a broken Colt any day of the week.

===================================================

Im also from Iowa, Moravia just a few miles from you. Im currently building a Model 1 Sales kit using a Superior Arms lower receiver.

Keep us updated and let me know how you like that AccuCast lower.

[Iowa Hick]

Originally posted by aaronrkelly
Keep us updated and let me know how you like that AccuCast lower.

Will do, so far just doing a visual inspection and checking the fit with my upper it seems alright. If you're interested he also makes complete uppers, lowers, or complete rifles.

Here's his websites:

http://www.castbullet.net/
http://www.ustacticalarms.com/

He's a pretty good guy, next time you are in Ottumwa you should stop by his shop, he doesn't have a lot of inventory on hand, but he has some nice custom AR's and he has the best prices on DPMS AR10's that I have found, about $1050 out the door. His shop is right behind his house about a quarter mile east of Hwy 63 on Rabbit Run Road. I think its the first place on the south side of the road but I could be wrong. Its kind of hard to spot so you might drive by it the first time.

[Iowa Hick]

Finally got my hand guard from Model 1 sales and got the AR fully assembled last night. Monday night I'll probably take it to my cousin's house to get the barrel torqued and check the headspace, then maybe tuesday I can start breaking it in.

I was a little disapointed to find that the free float tube I bought doesn't have a stud for a sling on it so I can't mount a harris bipod. Maybe in a few months I'll switch it out for a different one.

[aaronrkelly]

Originally posted by Iowa Hick
Will do, so far just doing a visual inspection and checking the fit with my upper it seems alright. If you're interested he also makes complete uppers, lowers, or complete rifles.

Here's his websites:

http://www.castbullet.net/
http://www.ustacticalarms.com/

He's a pretty good guy, next time you are in Ottumwa you should stop by his shop, he doesn't have a lot of inventory on hand, but he has some nice custom AR's and he has the best prices on DPMS AR10's that I have found, about $1050 out the door. His shop is right behind his house about a quarter mile east of Hwy 63 on Rabbit Run Road. I think its the first place on the south side of the road but I could be wrong. Its kind of hard to spot so you might drive by it the first time.

I called and spoke to the guy, seems like a nice guy. He told me that Superior Arms his who he sub-contracts to build his lowers.


I bought my last lower from Superior Arms....good stuff.

[theTactician]

Originally posted by bukn77
you might look at the eotech for a sight. I personally prefer it over the aimpoint. If you wanted to save a little more money you could buy the bushnell holosight. Its the same as the eotech without the "armor" I believe. I wouldn't put the holosight xlp on though; I would get the normal holosight.

hey man, how much does a bushnell holosight cost? can it readily be attached to the AR's railing?