Trouble with Wolf competition kit! Am I alone???

[walrus108]

I just got the Wolf Competition Trigger Pack spring set for my G22. This comes with a reduced power firing pin spring, light weight safety plunger spring, and an extra power trigger connector spring. I got this kit from Brownells . Here http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=22867&title=TRIGGER+GROUP+COMPETITION+PAK+for+GLOCK%7e is a link to what I got. The problem I have is when I installed this kit my safety would not reset. It fired and operated fine but when I released the trigger, it would not move far enough back for the safety button on the trigger to move out. Basically, it has no safety at all with this kit. I was able to push the trigger forward and then the safety would pop up and it would be just fine. Shoot it again and it was the same thing. I removed the springs one by one and with just the reduced power (4lb) striker spring removed, it works fine. So that's the way I left it. Has anybody else had this experience? What could cause this? Maybe my trigger bar is from the wrong generation?

[surgeon withG19]

I did a test one day with a stock striker spring sense i had several stock ones laying around. I started cliping coils off of it to just see how light i could get the trigger before it quit reseting or till it would not set the primmers off.
I never got to that point, i had a 3.5# connector in it and the trigger did get lighter and lighter. But after removeing about 1/3 of the spring it got to the point that it would still fire and the trigger would reset but the safty would not reset. So i backed off about 4 coils and left it there along with a .25 cent trigger job it is one sweet trigger.
This is on my G34 competition pistol and with that light trigger it makes shooting one handed and weak handed a whole lot easier and also when im shooting at 100yds. I know alot of people will disagree with what i did but hey its my gun.

[D. Manley]

That's why it's called a "Competetion Kit" and your results are common. IMHO, if you want all safties to function, drop the extra power trigger spring from the mix and you'll be fine with the reduced FP spring and FPS spring. On the latter, be sure you test for proper function of the FP safety.

[walrus108]

Originally posted by D. Manley
That's why it's called a "Competetion Kit" and your results are common. IMHO, if you want all safties to function, drop the extra power trigger spring from the mix and you'll be fine with the reduced FP spring and FPS spring. On the latter, be sure you test for proper function of the FP safety.

That's what I ended up doing. I am just surprised that a matched set of competition springs would take the safety function out of my gun. It would seem even competition guys would want some sort of safety. But on the bright side, with just the two springs installed, it works fine and the trigger is noticeably lighter and more crisp. Thanks for the info. :thumbsup:

[Custom Glock Racing]

Common problem with stronger trigger springs.

[walrus108]

Originally posted by Custom Glock Racing
Common problem with stronger trigger springs.

So with a stock trigger spring, reduced striker spring, and reduced safety plunger spring, it would maybe work? What's better then, a stock striker spring with reduced safety plunger and stronger connector spring, like I have now? Or lightweight striker and safety plunger spring with stock connector spring? I'm gonna try all three in my G24 and see if it works.

[D. Manley]

Originally posted by walrus108
So with a stock trigger spring, reduced striker spring, and reduced safety plunger spring, it would maybe work? What's better then, a stock striker spring with reduced safety plunger and stronger connector spring, like I have now? Or lightweight striker and safety plunger spring with stock connector spring? I'm gonna try all three in my G24 and see if it works.

As I said above, I'd lay off the stronger trigger spring in the mix. What happens is, the extra power trigger spring "overpowers" it's opposition with the light striker spring and the trigger is unable to reset the trigger safety...does not always happen but, is common. Lighter FP springs are fine in competetion or "fun" guns and do lighten the trigger noticably. As long as you get reliable ignition (and, I do), no problem. If you have ignition problems, go with a lightened striker and the problem is easily resolved.

I personally don't have a problem with the little reduced power FPS spring (as long as it does not impair the function of the safety) but, you've also gotta have a more sensitive trigger finger than mine to tell any difference it makes. While the concept is logical frankly, I can't detect any appreciable difference at all lightening the FPS spring. I just don't feel it takes much to push the FPS up with the stock spring so I leave mine stock.

[Custom Glock Racing]

Originally posted by walrus108
So with a stock trigger spring, reduced striker spring, and reduced safety plunger spring, it would maybe work? What's better then, a stock striker spring with reduced safety plunger and stronger connector spring, like I have now? Or lightweight striker and safety plunger spring with stock connector spring? I'm gonna try all three in my G24 and see if it works. Throw away the trigger spring. Great triggers can be made without them and they mostly just cause problems.

[SDM]

I personally don't have a problem with the little reduced power FPS spring (as long as it does not impair the function of the safety) but, you've also gotta have a more sensitive trigger finger than mine to tell any difference it makes. While the concept is logical frankly, I can't detect any appreciable difference at all lightening the FPS spring. I just don't feel it takes much to push the FPS up with the stock spring so I leave mine stock.

I noticed this too. I took the whole thing (safety and spring) out FOR DRYFIRE PURPOSES ONLY and couldn't tell any difference. I'd like to test it with a trigger pull gauge though.

[gregw]

I had the exact same problem. I went back to the stock trigger spring and it has worked fine since.

[Smokecloud]

On my competition G35, I used stock trigger and safety block spring, but used the reduced power striker spring (4lb) for about 2 years. That combo and a good polish job on all of the internal components along with the 3 1/2lb connector, yielded 3 1/8 lb on my trigger pull guage.

I had avoided the other two springs because so many people had problems as you mentioned. It really is one of those things you have to try and see if it works in your gun. I believe the better polish job you have, the better chance your gun will run correctly. I finally decided to try the entire kit out a few weeks ago when ordering a huge amount of parts from brownells for my new project gun. The springs showed up, I put in the entire spring kit, lubed it up, put it on the pull guage and it yielded 2 7/8 lb. It was noticeably lighter to me and i really expected it to pull around 2 1/2, but bottom line is that the trigger spring and safety block dropped the pull by 1/4 lb. I did not test what the safety block spring would reduce the pull with the stock trigger spring. after 300rds, mine seems to be working correctly so far, so I will leave all of them in for now. For $6, you cant go wrong, even if you throw away one or two of the 3 springs.

Oh, BTW, My gun in stock form when I first purchased it, with factory 3.5 connector pulled 4.5lb on the guage, just for comparison.

[T. Harless]

What's a safety block spring?

[J.P.]

Originally posted by walrus108
So with a stock trigger spring, reduced striker spring, and reduced safety plunger spring, it would maybe work?

Yes.
Ditch the "stronger" trigger spring.

[PursuitFRC]

So, what sort of results would a

1. Reduced power striker spring
2. Reduced power safety spring
3. NY1 trigger spring
4. 3.5 connector

yeild?