Advice on 1998 Volvo S70? [Archive] - Glock Talk


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04-25-2007, 06:24
I'm thinking about buying one. It has 130,000, and was recently completely serviced by a trustworthy source.

What I'm looking for is any "warnings" about volvos in general, or this year in particular.


04-26-2007, 10:30
The only warning I can give you is that you can't kill the damned things even if you want to. I had a 13 year old mustard yellow 244DL as my first car in high school. I tried really hard to wear that thing out so I could get another one. Forget it. Can't be done.

ETA: My parents finally sold the car about 10 years ago with 300k miles on it. Only thing ever replaced on it was the clutch...several times from me learning to drive a stick-shift with it. My dad still sees the current owner driving it around town today.

04-26-2007, 11:04
Thanks. I found a deal on another car, but appreciate the info.

walkin' trails
04-27-2007, 18:53
I did manage to about destroy a '74 164 a few years ago. I drove it way too hard. It was faster than most folks expected it to be and, in the era of severely smogged V-8s I took every opportunity to demonstrate that mine would run. It had a little over 100K when I finally sold it. Its second transmission (automatic) was about to go south, the oil pressure light came on constantly, and the fuel injection was a nightmare.

Past that, they are good cars. In the 760/960 era, there was talk that the bodies would outlast the motors, and someone used that as an excuse to develope a kit to convert to 5.0 Ford power complete with T-5. Paul Newman supposedly had one.

05-07-2007, 13:06
I've worked on a Volvo or two. ;)

Assuming this is a 5-cylinder turbo:

These are VERY good cars... but check a couple of things: Listen carefully for a clunk/popping noise going through potholes with the front wheels. The swaybar links wear poorly, but are only about $100 to replace at the dealership.

Check the upper motor mount. It's right there on top of the motor at the back of the engine bay, behind the oil fill cap. The rubber cracks and tears easily... They fail every 60-100,000 miles. Runs about $150 to replace.

It should have had the software in the ETM upgraded. (Electronic Throttle Module) under Campaign 155. If not, it's a free service regardless of mileage at the dealership, and takes about an hour.

There's also a recall on the cooling fan, but I've never actually seen one fail. Look at the back of the fan: There's a rectangular module about the size of a pack of cards. If it's got a black plastic cover facing the engine, it's original. The replacement ones have a metal cover. Again, it's free at dealer regardless of mileage, and never actually breaks.

That's about it for these cars. The front suspension parts and that upper engine mount are about the only things that frequently require repair.

Pull the transmission dipstick and see if the fluid is cherry red like it should be. If it's dark and smells burnt, pass on the car. Also look down the back of the motor at the turbo... there is ALWAYS a little bit of oil on 'em unless it was replaced, but it shouldn't be COVERED in oil with gunk and sludge covering it, either.

PM me if you have any more questions. ;)