Anything to watch out for when assembling?

[emt1581]

When my kit gets here, I plan on tearing into it like a monkey on a cupcake!

Just wondering if there is a part or two that I really want to be careful with. Whether its making sure not to bend it, snap it, strip it, etc...

What mistakes are common that I can avoid?

Also, I'm guessing it'll come with directions (me being a first timer, I sort of need them) but if not, where online should I look?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

[Scott30]

My RRA kit did NOT come with directions. Maybe yours will.

A great source of info is:

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

I would suggest that you read it before you get started and pay attention to the suggestions.

Good luck. It really is not hard to put together.

[USMC03Grunt]

If you are using a collapsable stock, make sure the locking plate is all the way back. When you screw in the extension tube, if the plate is not all the way back, you swipe it over the takedown pin detent spring and bugger them up fairly easily.
Another thing to watch out for is putting the pivot pin detent spring and detent pin in. I've launched a couple of those detent pins in my time.
When barreling the upper, make sure that the notch in the barrel nut is in line with the gas tube hole in the upper receiver. I've used a piece of old gas tube cut down to make sure that the gas tube is going in straight and aligning on the gas key. If it's not, your bolt may not close all the way or the gas key may bing and wear unevenly on the gas tube.
Another trick that helps putting the trigger in (on an M-16A2 or M-4, this can especially be a pain in the neck) is to use a cut down trigger pin as a slave pin to hold the disconnector and trigger together than drop them in together as a single unit. When you put the trigger pin in, use it to press out the slave pin at the same time.
If you are using an A2 compensator, you want to heat the peel washer torch to delaminate the washers. You want to be able to hand-tighten the compensator until you get the middle of the first slot in the 12-o'clock position then tighten it down the rest of the way until the middle slot is at 12 o'clock position (roughly about 15-20 ft./lbs.)

[USMC03Grunt]

One other thing to watch out for is that is you ever plan to take the barrel off in the future be it shot out, bent, damaged, etc. that you coat the threads of the upper receiver with moly-B or another form of suitable anti-siezing compound. I've taken bad barrels off uppers that were assembled without it and usually it winds up completely distroying the barrel nut and in some cases the upper receiver!:shocked:

[emt1581]

Originally posted by Scott30
My RRA kit did NOT come with directions. Maybe yours will.

A great source of info is:

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

I would suggest that you read it before you get started and pay attention to the suggestions.

Good luck. It really is not hard to put together.

Awesome thanks!

And thanks for the other advice Grunt;)

-Emt1581

[emt1581]

Also, am I going to need any special tools to assemble the whole kit?

The handguard is already installed. Now I have a very nice tool shed (work bench, tools, vice, etc...but any special wrenches or anything I'll need?...or can everything be assembled with a hammer, pliers, screw driver, etc...?

How long should such a kit take to get totally together?

Only reason I ask is because if it's taking me 20mins or 20hrs and it should really take about 2hours, I want to know ahead of time so I don't goof up.

Thanks!

-Emt1581

[neeko]

Your upper is already assembled I imagine. Just install the LPK according to the walkthru on AR15.com and pin on the upper.

[Rob1035]

Just take your time. Definitely put masking tape around the various pins you are installing to prevent scratching your receiver. AR15 specific tools would come in handy, and it would be much easier to install using a vise and AR mag block...

[GixxerSixxer]

Your upper will come fully assembled from Del-Ton. All you need to do is attach it to the lower.

Look closely at how the hammer spring goes on. It can be put on backwards which gives light strikes and a walking hammer pin.

File the edges of the roll pins before inserting to get them in easier.

You'll need some slip joint pliers with tape around the end. Also, a hammer, punch set, and a file. That's all I need to assemble a lower. At most it should take 2 hours. My first one took 45 min, now I'm down to about 20 minutes.

The spring with the slightly larger base goes with the disconnector NOT the bolt catch.

The safety and fire control group go in before the grip gets put on because the grip retains the safety.

The buttstock holds the rear takedown pin in place. So the rear takedown is put in before the buttstock gets attached. This can be tricky because you have to thread on the buffer tube while not launching the buffer detent and not dump the safety out the side.

[Critter]

Support the 'ear' on the lower at the trigger guard on the rear side that the roll pin goes through. I have a jig I made out of wood. You do not want to break it off when tapping in the roll pin.

[1811guy2]

The vise grip method for inserting the rolls pins is the easiest and it supports both ears.

[Gibbles]

Watch out for the front take down pin detent, wear some safety glasses. :supergrin:

[Tom P]

Buy some roll pin punches (got mine from mcmaster.com). They will make putting in the mag catch and trigger guard pins much easier. I don't remember what sizes you need, but they are listed in the assy instructions on the other site.

[Algaroth]

Originally posted by Gibbles
Watch out for the front take down pin detent, wear some safety glasses. :supergrin:

This part is possibly the most difficult part of the whole assembly. I've only done one lower, but I will say that an extra set of hands really does come in handy.

A friend and I built my lower in about an hour.

[emt1581]

Well after putting her together 4 times due to various screw-ups...she is now complete and I'm still drooling. :hearts:

Thanks for the help!!

-Emt1581