New kimber problem

[JBlitzen]

(No pics yet, sorry)

I've got 150 rounds through a Pro CDP II with 8-round Wilson magazines, and mostly it's running fine, and I realize there's a break-in period.

It will periodically fail to fully return to battery. The slide seems to stop a few millimeters away from full return, preventing firing. A nudge will clear it up, but sometimes simply tipping the pistol forward quickly will also do so.

Is this a break-in/lubrication issue? Or should I look into a tougher recoil spring? Or is it limp wristing?

[reflection01]

I wouldn't change anything on the gun until it's finished with the initial break-in. Typically Kimbers, being tight, and the guns built on national match barrels with tighter toleranced chambers, could be causing issue that you are describing. Just be sure to lube the gun well, not necessarily cleaning the pistol, but lube the piece during the range session. Regards

[Short Cut]

Could be lube, could be ammo, what type of ammo are you using? I'd start simple with a good clean and lube and some quality factory ammo.

I doubt it is the recoil spring or limp wristing.

Good to see you are using some quality magazines.

[Sarge45]

Make sure your slide rails are lubed good.

Use only factory ammo until broken in.

Is it brand new or used ? If not new, change the recoil spring.


My Colt Officers ACP would do this until broken in (about 300 rounds). After that, she has loosened up and is 100% reliable. I knew it was tight because while empty (read no ammo in the gun), I could slowly release the slide forward and it would hang about 1/4" open.

Like I said, she runs great now.

[JBlitzen]

Okay, guys, I'll figure it's a lube/break-in thing. Thanks for your help, it sounds pretty normal. Yes, Sarge, it's brand new.

[Rob96]

Funny how nothing is really built as tight as a Les Baer, yet you never hear of this with them. Had one exactly like yours, and even after the "required" 500 round break-in and a return trip to the Custom Shop for repair it still wouldn't work.

[Wolfgang]

had a similiar problem with one of 3 wilson mags. It is fine with Novaks, Ed Brown, and Wolff.


http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w236/elmo39bf/IMG_0184.jpg

[JBlitzen]

Would it break-in better without lubrication?

[reflection01]

Originally posted by JBlitzen
Would it break-in better without lubrication?

JB, com'on, imo, 1911s are alot like a vehicle motor than a Glock. 1911s need to be lubed even after a typical break-in period, and alot more so during the break-in period. Regards

[JBlitzen]

Well, that's my assumption too, but it seems like it would smooth down contact points faster if they aren't lubricated. I haven't tried it, but I saw it mentioned somewhere else, and it seems to make some sense. Anyone have any thoughts?

[reflection01]

Once again, i would say that with a pistol like the Glock, which recommends light lube before and after the break-in period, even then a light lube is recommended-......i would buy that; as is my guns are "well" lubed whether they are are a Glock or any myriad of 1911s. however, it goes against all my logic and experience in dealing with 1911s to run it dry, much less i wanted to try how many rounds it would take to "seize" the gun permanently :)

[Sarge45]

Funny you ask JB because I do have a thought. One thing I did to help mine a little was to remove all lube from the bearing points on the slide, slide rails and disconnector to slide and hand cycle the slide over, and over, and over for about 30 minutes while watching TV. No ammo present. This helped a lot, in my opinion.

Afterwards, cleaned it up and applied lube. You might try it. No guarantees though.

[Berto]

More boolits,more lube,more shooting.;)

[JBlitzen]

Originally posted by Sarge45
Funny you ask JB because I do have a thought. One thing I did to help mine a little was to remove all lube from the bearing points on the slide, slide rails and disconnector to slide and hand cycle the slide over, and over, and over for about 30 minutes while watching TV. No ammo present. This helped a lot, in my opinion.

Afterwards, cleaned it up and applied lube. You might try it. No guarantees though. I may just do that, Sarge, thanks.

[Sarge45]

Forgot to say when hand cycling, don't let the slide "slam" home. Ride it home each time to reduce battering. Good luck !

[ILikeFtLbs]

I had a similar problem and located the causes for mine(there were two). First, the trigger disconnect was slowing down the slide when it didn't have enough lubrication. This problem was my fault and is gone now. The second problem, and this caused the hangup in my springfield loaded as well as the kimber, was handloaded ammo making contact with the slide stop. It sounds like your problem is more like the first since you said pushing the slide returned it to battery. Just shoot it a lot.

[JBlitzen]

I saw that in the manual, Sarge, but a good reminder, thank you.

Nice nick, FtLbs. I'll try lubing that next time, too, thank you.

[Short Cut]

J, sorry if I missed it, but what kind of ammo are you using?

[JBlitzen]

WWB bulk pack 100 round. I think I put 160 rounds through it the first session. I also have a few rounds of gold dot +p sitting in the wings, but I'll wait on that until after it's good with FMJ.

I should let you all know that I'm not disappointed at all. I knew the reputation of 1911's and Kimbers going in. While I get a good laugh at the thought that my P226's have never once had any malfunction of any sort, the 1911's advantages drew me to it as a new novelty, and this CDP feels awesome. I'm certain that between proper maintenance, break-in, and if necessary, customer support, I can work out the little bugs.

[GlockX35]

You beat me to it. I have 5 Les Baers that are tighter than just about anything else out there and have never had issues even during break-in which on a Baer is about 500 rounds. 1000 rounds before it's smooth as butter.

For breaking in Kimbers or really any new 1911 I take it apart and drench it in breakfree, then lube it generously with a combination of grease and oil. Put at least 300 rounds through a Kimber before thinking you have a problem. Clean and lube every 150 rounds.

Originally posted by Rob96
Funny how nothing is really built as tight as a Les Baer, yet you never hear of this with them. Had one exactly like yours, and even after the "required" 500 round break-in and a return trip to the Custom Shop for repair it still wouldn't work.

[Callcthulu]

Just remember too much isn't a good thing. Just a drop will do it spread it around with your finger and get a hopps bore snake. It will be the best investment you make for your kimber.

Hope this helps
Sean

[JBlitzen]

What's the advantage of a bore snake over a good brush and patch rod set?

[GlockX35]

It's quicker. I've taken to using a combination though. I still scrub with a brush but then run the bore snake through 5 or 6 times to clean it out after scrubbing. Then I run a patch through with lube. Without the bore snake it wold take alot of patches to get the barrel clean.

[JBlitzen]

I don't find it that hard. I use an outer's extension rod with a brush, just drop it through and pull a few times so the crap all moves away from the chamber. Solvent patch first, then solvent patch after, then dry patches. My understanding is that a bore snake won't be a perfect solution either.

[Callcthulu]

The bore snake isn't the only thing I use, its a combination of brushes and patches. But, it works really well at getting most of the lead grim out. They are pretty inexpensive and like Glockx35 said save you a bunch of time. I would also use a nylon bush at first to clean the frame and slide at least until you get some rounds though you Kimber.

Just my two cents
Sean