Officers model series 80

[hapuna]

Is there someplace that shows how to field strip this puppy? It seems different from my other 1911s. I don't think you use a wrench on this. Any help appreciated.:sad:

[SouthpawShootr]

Oh boy. Something I haven't done in years. OK, this is one of those IIRC replies (I replaced the slotted plug in my Officer's ACP with a FLGR and reverse plug a long time ago - takedown is now similar to S&W 3rd generation autos). Since nobody else has replied, I'll give it a go. First you need to have a standard screwdriver with an appropriately sized blade. You need to push the plug in and rotate the barrel bushing similar to the way you do it for a standard Government/Commander. You can take the whole bushing out and it won't matter. Then you put the screwdriver blade in the slot, push in, and turn until it clears the slide (as I recall it will need to be rotated from 06:00 to approximately 10:30). You have to be sure to clear the notch in the underside of the slide that engages the tap in the plug. Aside from the push inward, you shouldn't have any resistance. The plug with come out through the front and that will release the tension on the slide and allow you to move it back to the takedown notch. Be careful, after you remove that barrel bushing, there's nothing to stop that plug for exiting rather forcefully. The only thing that keeps the plug in place under normal circumstances is the small tab at 06:00 that engages a similarly sized relief in the slide. Best to wear safety glasses for disassembly. Hope this helps.

[hapuna]

OK so we have figured out that someone had modified the stock setup. There appears to be a recessed hex screw in the retention spring device. How do I get the spring out?? Does the hex screw turn to allow the release??? Its odd in that I can unscrew the inner piece and remove it from the gun. It appears to be similar to something I saw at Brownells but there is no info on it. Its the FLGR kit.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16391&title=COMPACT+1911+FULL-LENGTH+GUIDE+ROD+KIT#specs

[SouthpawShootr]

If you've got a FLGR and a reverse plug, I suspect you'll have to fieldstrip just like I do mine. It is very similar to S&W 3rd gen autos. You pinch the slide back to the disassembly notch, push out the slide stop, then ease the whole topend off the gun. Once you've got that off, you can remove the FLGR from the rear, as well as the reverse plug. The bushing is probably stock and comes off just like a normal 1911 bushing and if I remember right, you will have to take the barrel out from the front due to the flare in the stock barrel. Reassembly is the reverse. You put everything back the way it was and ease that slide back to the notch, then put the slide stop in. Brownells probably carries the stock parts if you want to put the gun back the way it was. There's a chance it won't work properly stock as some of these FLGR reverse plugs necessitated removeal of a small amount of the slide. You see these things alot on Officer's ACPs b/c that little lug on the stock plug had a nasty habit of shearing off and heading downrange along with the recoil spring. The hell of it was (it never happened to me, though - I changed mine to a FLGR before i had a problem) that you couldn't tell when it was about to happen. To my knowledge, nobody ever came up with a round count standard of when to replace the plug. Is this a stainless Officer's? If so, you may be able to tell if the slides been modified if the finish doesn't match in the area where the reverse plug engages the slide.

[hapuna]

Originally posted by SouthpawShootr
Is this a stainless Officer's? If so, you may be able to tell if the slides been modified if the finish doesn't match in the area where the reverse plug engages the slide.

No its not stainless its kind of a beater but my next question will be getting a finish on it that wears well. That's if I ever get it stripped and cleaned.:)

[hapuna]

Originally posted by SouthpawShootr
If you've got a FLGR and a reverse plug, I suspect you'll have to fieldstrip just like I do mine. It is very similar to S&W 3rd gen autos. You pinch the slide back to the disassembly notch, push out the slide stop, then ease the whole topend off the gun. Once you've got that off, you can remove the FLGR from the rear, as well as the reverse plug.
By the way I just tried this as you instructed and it came apart without a problem!!!! Thanks for hanging in there :supergrin:

Whoops I may have spoken too soon. I got the slide apart but now I can't seem to get the guide rod or the barrel out. The guide rod hangs up on the metal "O" attached to the barrel and there doesn't seem to be enough space to clear it. Is there another trick?

[SouthpawShootr]

Originally posted by hapuna
By the way I just tried this as you instructed and it came apart without a problem!!!! Thanks for hanging in there :supergrin:

Whoops I may have spoken too soon. I got the slide apart but now I can't seem to get the guide rod or the barrel out. The guide rod hangs up on the metal "O" attached to the barrel and there doesn't seem to be enough space to clear it. Is there another trick?

All I can recommend is wiggling the guide rod a bit side to side to see if you can clear that link. Don't bend the guide rod though (I think you figured that one out on your own). Also, did you try removing the barrel bushing? It might loosen things up enough to get it out. Still might take some wiggling. B/c the spring bears against the reverse and the chamber end of the guide rod, there's no way to get it out through the front (not with the barrel in there anyway and you can't get the barrel out with that guiderod in place - don't you love it?). Did you see if the guide rod can compress? Push it forward and then lay the barrel link down against the barrel then try to lift/ease it out. There are several different models out there, each one is a little different. Unfortunately, I've never seen even one with the manufacturer's info on it (then you could just give them a call and ask).

[SouthpawShootr]

Originally posted by hapuna
No its not stainless its kind of a beater but my next question will be getting a finish on it that wears well. That's if I ever get it stripped and cleaned.:)

After the disassembly problem is solved: Brushed hard chrome would be about as durable as you can get. Try Tripp Research. They come highly recommended. Maybe one of Robars finishes if you don't like silver and prefer black. But that's for another time.

[hapuna]

But of course a new day a new attitude and the danged thing comes apart with only a little banging around. I must say for as hard as it looked like this thing has been ridden it looks pretty good on the inside!
I can't wait for reassembly!!!! I already know gettig that damned pin back thru the frame is going to be a bear.:shocked:

[ipscshooter]

Originally posted by hapuna
OK so we have figured out that someone had modified the stock setup. There appears to be a recessed hex screw in the retention spring device. How do I get the spring out?? Does the hex screw turn to allow the release???

Sorry I'm a bit late on this.

It appears you have a two piece guide rod with reverse plug.

This was a common modification to OM's as the stock set up had a reputation for being fragile. Wilson sold, and may still sell, parts for this. It required slight modification of the slide.


The easiest way to disassemble is to unscrew the rod while the gun is together. This prevents back of rod from turning. Then move slide back to take down notch and remove slide stop. Take slide off frame. Should be a breeze from there. To reassemble...put barrel and rod/spring, bushing /plug into gun, then screw in front portion loosely. After reassemble of slide to frame tighten the rod real tight and you ready to go.

I know this works, since I just took my OM apart and back together in a few seconds just to make sure I was telling you right.

Good luck.

[hapuna]

Originally posted by ipscshooter
Sorry I'm a bit late on this.

It appears you have a two piece guide rod with reverse plug.

The easiest way to disassemble is to unscrew the rod while the gun is together. This prevents back of rod from turning. Then move slide back to take down notch and remove slide stop. Take slide off frame. Should be a breeze from there. To reassemble...put barrel and rod/spring, bushing /plug into gun, then screw in front portion loosely. After reassemble of slide to frame tighten the rod real tight and you ready to go.

Good luck.

Yes I now see what you're saying that way the rod is shorter and comes right out. I was wondering why I could unscrew it.
Now do you have any hints for getting the pin to go back into the frame/slide on reassembly. For some reason I get it 95% of the way there and can't get the last 1/4 inch home!!

[ipscshooter]

Originally posted by hapuna
Yes I now see what you're saying that way the rod is shorter and comes right out. I was wondering why I could unscrew it.
Now do you have any hints for getting the pin to go back into the frame/slide on reassembly. For some reason I get it 95% of the way there and can't get the last 1/4 inch home!!

If by "pin" you mean slide stop, you need to make sure that the swinging link on the bottom of the barrel is in the right position. If it's not the pin will not go all the way in. It may take a few tries and fiddling a bit with it to get it right. Of course you are aware that plunger spring on the frame might need to be pushed into the staked on tube so the stop clears. With the right technique you can usually do this without a tool. but you may need a non marring tool of some type to push it in so the stop clears.

[hapuna]

IPSC Of course you are aware that plunger spring on the frame might need to be pushed into the staked on tube so the stop clears. With the right technique you can usually do this without a tool. but you may need a non marring tool of some type to push it in so the stop clears.

I followed everything until this part. What plunger spring are you talking about??? Is it the thing in front of the safety lever? That does appear to be in the way at times. Even when I get the thing in I'm not sure how I did it!!!

[ipscshooter]

There is a plunger tube staked to the side of the frame. It is between the frame safety and the slide stop. In the tube is a compression spring that has a small metal plunger in each end. On the safety end it provides tension for when the safety is flicked on and off. On the slide stop side it provides tension to help keep the slide stop from jumping up during recoil and locking up the slide, like an empty mag would do. The back of the slide stop is also angled slightly to aid in this tension.

When reassembling the slide stop into the gun, unless you know the trick you may need to push the plunger in slightly to get the slide stop to go into the frame. The trick is basically pushing the slide stop in and up at the same time when it contacts the radius edge of the plunger. There is a small plastic tool that is made that will fit behind the stop or safety to help push the plunger in, but any thin non marring device will work. A thin screw driver wrapped in tape, a thin piece of plastic like a chunk of a credit card (good use), even a toothpick. Just use it to push the plunger back slightly so the stop or safety will clear the radius. It can help in avoiding the so called "idiot mark" of the slide stop scratching up the frame with an arc shaped scratch.

Make sure the link on the barrel is in the right position.

[G19Tony]

Thanks guys. I was having the same problem with my RI compact. The screwdriver and going to the 1030 position worked great. :wavey: