3 1/2 weeks later...

[feltoosj]

...I got my C&R! This has been a long wait...

They sent it to my mother's house (I'm a college student) because that's more of a permanent residence than my off-campus apartment right now (I know that the guns I order will have to go to the address on my license, right? That's ok, I'll just order around times that I'll be home, or AIM surplus is within driving distance so there goes shipping).

First on my list is either a K31 or a Mauser 98k...I'm leaning towards the 98k but the K31's cheaper. I'd also prefer it if I could find an Israeli 98k. There's one on auctionarms but it ends in 4 hrs. and I definitely won't have my license in hand till next week...$250 + $25 shipping (sounds like a good deal, right? It's got Jewish star markings next to nazi markings--how historical is that!?!

Any opinions on AIM's Mausers? I'm going to try to avoid one with just nazi markings (as I'm Jewish...history be damned at this point) but if I can't I'm going to get them ground off best I can (will that effect the rifle's operation?). The one on AIM's site looks just stunningly beautiful and $220 doesn't seem like a high price at all.

Thanks for all the help I hope to receive!

[Bushbacker]

The AIM 98Ks are typical Russian Capture 98ks. I got one a few years ago. Sometimes the Russians peened the Nazi markings. I would imagine this was done with the rounded end of a ball peen hammer. You could do this yourself or sand them down. Sanding would take off the black paint the Russians typically dipped them in and you'd have a bare spot. Neither technique should damage the rifle unless you just went hog wild and beat the heck out of it.

The Israeli Mauser would fit your bill better but the one you have your eye on would likely be gone. There will be others though.

You could also ask AIM if they have any that were already peened by the Russians. These are not in high demand so they might have a few. Give them a call and also SOG. They don't list their prices but they are similar:

http://www.southernohiogun.com/surrifle.htm

[Marine8541]

Century has the K98 converted to .308 by Isreal for $189 for fair and $199 for good.

[Rick O'Shay]

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=40486

Todd does the searching for you, and charges a nominal (my opinion) fee for that. They have their own website.
www.familyfirearms&finishes.com

[feltoosj]

Interesting on Family Firearms as they're closer to me than AIM...too bad they're more expensive than AIM...

I'll email them and see what they say...I really don't wanna spend more than 250, maybe 275 on an Israeli Mauser.

Thanks for all the input thus far.

1 more question, I know this comes up a lot with new C&R holders, but what should I be looking for in terms of a "good" gun? I know pitting=bad, but a little is better than a lot, I know that I should make sure the rifling is still distinguishable...anything else?

[Rick O'Shay]

Look for good wood, more (rather than less) parkerized finish, serial number on bolt matching the receiver, any missing screws, and good muzzle wear.

To check the muzzle wear, take a round that the gun uses, and put it tip-first into the muzzle. The amount that the brass stands off from the muzzle is an indicator of remaining wear life of the bore.

Also, look at the crown, and see if there are any distortions in the inner rim, where the bullet exits the bore. Any dings in that area can cause bad accuracy. Recrowning is an option, but a bore that does not require crowning is even better.

Avoid rifles that have been modified. For instance, a Garand that's been drilled and tapped, an M1 carbine that's been drilled and tapped, or had different sights installed. If you get a super deal on them, you might want to invest in them anyway, though.

A sling is a plus (saves you a few bucks).

[Marine8541]

I the first thing I do in buying a used rifle is make sure no parts are missing or broken. I start at the butt of the rifle and work my way to the muzzel. I check for the obvious such as a missing front site post to the less obvious such a a butt plate screw. Then I make sure that nothing on the weapon is loose or tight that's not supposed to be. Then I look for pitting, finish, and over all condition of the metal. Next I check the function of the weapon. I make sure the action works, the safety is operable, the weapon can be cocked and the trigger housing group works. Then I check to make sure that things like butt traps work and that any ajustable sights work.

Then I check the condition of the bore, rifling, and crown. I always keep a good flahlight and bore light in the glove box that way I always have them if needed. I then check the stock for cracks and repairs. Remember the stock is usually the least valuable and most easily replaceable or refinishable part of the weapon. Then I check the markings and serial numbers on the weapon and any extras.

The biggest advice I can give is do your research, then do some more, then some more. Know what you want. If things like markings are important to you then know what they mean on the weapon you're looking at. Know if it's common to have matching numbers or not. Know the going rate for what you're looking for. Know things such as ammo availability and cost to feed it. Most of all have fun.

[tat2guy]

PLEASE NOTE-
I undersand where you're coming from, I'm playing devil's advocate, and I had a few beers watching the Phillies get swept by the Rockies, but...

Why would you buy a Nazi marked gun and then eradicate the markings?

It will still have the same past, ie, it was used by a Nazi, no matter what you do to it.

Why not just buy a non-nazi marked gun?


Please note again- I'm in no way saying Nazis were good, or anti-nazi sentiments are bad. Just asking. I mean, from what I understand, 2 guns of the same type, one with the Nazi markings and one w/out, the unmarked one is cheaper almost all the time, right? Why waste money to buy a gun with something you don't want engraved on it, then do extra work to rid yourself of the unwanted thing, when you can usually buy the same gun cheaper the way you want it?

[tat2guy]

Originally posted by feltoosj
It's got Jewish star markings next to nazi markings--how historical is that!?!


Also, I have no nazi guns, nor any plans to buy any nazi guns... but if I came across something like THAT^^ I might just be tempted to buy it.
That is pretty nuts!

[feltoosj]

Originally posted by tat2guy
PLEASE NOTE-
I undersand where you're coming from, I'm playing devil's advocate, and I had a few beers watching the Phillies get swept by the Rockies, but...

Why would you buy a Nazi marked gun and then eradicate the markings?

I guess it has mostly to do with supply and demand...there's a high supply of WWII 98's (which all should have nazi symbols, right?) and a high demand from collectors for WWII 98's. Family Firearms has some from 1938 and earlier without swastikas and they're actually charging $30 more than AIM.

And actually that Israeli Mauser is back up on auctionarms, except looking back at it, the seller says it's "Good" condition and has 40-80% of its finish...I want something I little cleaner than that...