Reducing muzzle jump

[adhocglock]

I just bought my first AR15, a Colt LE6920, and now I'm learning how to shoot it. The recoil is very light, but I'd like to learn how to reduce muzzle jump so I can get back onto target for faster second shots.

I see videos of people shooting AR15s where they get off two shots and it doesn't look like the muzzle ever left the target. Is this a matter of technique or hardware?

I'd sure appreciate any advice and pointers.

Thanks,

[Skintop911]

I just bought my first AR15, a Colt LE6920, and now I'm learning how to shoot it. The recoil is very light, but I'd like to learn how to reduce muzzle jump so I can get back onto target for faster second shots...I'd sure appreciate any advice and pointers.

Training and practice.

Solid stance, good mount, good cheek weld. Body mechanics. Squared, body-supported stances work best. Upright, bladed stances work poorly.

No widgets.

[JBaird22]

Skintop has it dead on. It is a matter of technique not equipment. Staying squared up, leaning over the gun will "absorb" the recoil keeping you on target. Standing erect will allow the gun to move up and walk all over you.

[Jason607]

+1 on skintop's post.

I guess as far as the rifle itself a hevier and/or longer barrel could help. I don't know about the different muzzlebrakes and such how they would help.

[TimP]

put a muzzle brake on it, and work on your stance.

[Daynja]

Use a sling like this.
http://daynja.com/gt/sling.jpg

[adhocglock]

Thanks for all of the replies. I'll try working on my stance.

[Skintop911]

put a muzzle brake on it

Training before widgets.

[Alaskapopo]

Training and practice.

Solid stance, good mount, good cheek weld. Body mechanics. Squared, body-supported stances work best. Upright, bladed stances work poorly.

No widgets.

You mean you can't simply buy more gadgets. LOL.
Seriously good advice.
Pat

[toots shor]

check out part 2 of "bring a rifle to a fight"
http://www.downrange.tv/player.htm
it is the second video in the "tactical rifle" tab. he explains stance pretty well.

[amd65]

If you are using a carbine, try switching to a heavier buffer. I took a friends advice to try a 9mm buffer in my CAR, and the difference was amazing. Smoother cycling, and the sights stayed on target.

[adhocglock]

check out part 2 of "bring a rifle to a fight"
http://www.downrange.tv/player.htm
it is the second video in the "tactical rifle" tab. he explains stance pretty well.
Very cool link; a good visual to back up all of the advice about improving my stance.

Here is the link: http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/bcpid452320104/bclid459256134/bctid1137697611

I went to the range Thursday night and tried shooting with my body squared. A very noticeable improvement. Now I've got to unlearn a lifetime of shooting rifles and shotguns standing in a bladed stance.

[MrMurphy]

Square up, lean in, crouch slightly.

Helps when you wear armor too. :)

[MeanMike]

after watching this video more times than ill admit...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3nbhhY6iMI

I believe having the VFG fairly far forward, toward the muzzle, as opposed to having it more towards the magazine well, aids in reducing muzzle jump

[Skintop911]

If you are using a carbine, try switching to a heavier buffer. I took a friends advice to try a 9mm buffer in my CAR, and the difference was amazing. Smoother cycling, and the sights stayed on target.

Be aware that doing so will bring the gun closer to functional threshold. Keeping a gas gun running is a balancing act of variables.

[amd65]

Well, I ran about 100 rounds of PRVI 55gn and 62gn through mine that day with no issues--this is my home made CAR--Doublestar lower/ used post ban Bushmaster HBAR carbine upper, a weapon which has had no more than a quick bore clean and wipe down in about 700 rounds (in otherwords, no detail cleaning).
I wasn't really concerned with recoil or anything, but I figured, for $25, I would try a 9mm buffer after my friends recommendation, and after reading about it. I could always switch back, and I would have the 9mm buffer if I ever get around to getting a 9mm upper.
All I can say, after trying it, is that the difference was noticable, and there were no ill effects on my well lubed, yet far from spotlessly clean CAR. I liked it enough that I am leaving it in.

[Daynja]

Be aware that doing so will bring the gun closer to functional threshold. Keeping a gas gun running is a balancing act of variables.

yup...seen and experienced too many failures with a 9mm buffer to even consider it.

[TimP]

Training before widgets.

I disagree. But thats ok :)

Why struggle with learning to shoot at first, when a simple muzzle brake will greatly enhance the shooters learning curve. Then once you master it, you can remove the muzzle brake and go back. Same thing with optics. I prefer to start a new shooter with a red dot, then going back to the irons.

[adhocglock]

Who makes a good muzzle brake? I've heard good things about the Miculek brake, but haven't found much details in my internet searching.

[coverdog]

Who makes a good muzzle brake? I've heard good things about the Miculek brake, but haven't found much details in my internet searching.

Be prepared for some serious noise.

[mseiferth]

Who makes a good muzzle brake? I've heard good things about the Miculek brake, but haven't found much details in my internet searching.


Check this out...
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=603

The best brake period!

Watch the videos....

[DT]

yup...seen and experienced too many failures with a 9mm buffer to even consider it.

I wonder why this would be. The 9mm buffer I have is about the same wt. as a standard rifle buffer so I would not expect it to short stroke or induce malfunctions compared to a standard rifle buffer. I could see a problem if you used extra power or worn out springs.

[bdh_1]

I wonder why this would be. The 9mm buffer I have is about the same wt. as a standard rifle buffer so I would not expect it to short stroke or induce malfunctions compared to a standard rifle buffer. I could see a problem if you used extra power or worn out springs.

The difference there would be the differences between a carbine length gas system and a rifle length gas system. Gas tube length and gas port size play a role in proper timing too.

[DT]

The difference there would be the differences between a carbine length gas system and a rifle length gas system. Gas tube length and gas port size play a role in proper timing too.


So that would mean if a CAR style carbine had problems with the 9mm buffer it probably would also have problems with the standard full length rifle buffer ? I have not seen this.

Getting back to the topic at hand on my various ARs I have used a sabre gill, and surefire brake. They both work well. The surefire is louder. I also use an MGI buffer. From what I recall it is heavier than the 9mm buffer. I think it is close to 7 oz. The only problem I had was trying the MGI buffer with a Tubbs extra power spring. This caused short cycling.

[Panzerfaust]

put a muzzle brake on it, and work on your stance.


A muzzle brake on an AR is unnecessary. There is enough recoil-absorbing ability in an AR, this is nothing much more than a flash enhancer and noisemaker.

A good sling technique is a good place to start.

[mseiferth]

A muzzle brake on an AR is unnecessary. There is enough recoil-absorbing ability in an AR, this is nothing much more than a flash enhancer and noisemaker....

I disagree, I put the DNTC compensator on my STAG and it is incredible...Much better than the Phantom hider on my 14.5.

[DT]

I prefer a brake. I know it is a little louder and shooters to the sides may not like it. I did not always feel this way but I have found using a good brake increases my accurracy and speed of firing controlled pairs.

[Alaskapopo]

A muzzle brake on an AR is unnecessary. There is enough recoil-absorbing ability in an AR, this is nothing much more than a flash enhancer and noisemaker.

A good sling technique is a good place to start.
For a real world gun I agree. For a competition gun I disagree.
pat

[TimP]

I agree with Alaska popo.

For real world stuff, I guess its negligible, but for shooting a competition it makes a world of difference. Yes it is loud, yeah others dont like it. But I can shoot as fast as I can at an IPSC target at 50 yards and the sights never leave the target. Muzzle brakes work, period.

For a new shooter, brakes are a great thing. They let the shooter focus on the mechanics of the proper trigger pull, sight alignment, and grip, and not worry about the recoil.

[Panzerfaust]

For a person who is just learning to shoot, the muzzle brake levels out the barrel almost negligibly, but with new shooters, tends to create a new, even more difficult problem to deal with... the flinch. It isn't bad enough that a gun is loud, anyway, but when the sound gets directed right back to them, >flinch!!<

If you have your stuff together, and want to create one of those abomination space guns with a muzzle brake on it, that makes sense (I guess), but two of my pupils won't shoot rifles because they can't keep from flinching. One reason of many why I would like to see suppressors become unregulated (yeah, that would take violent overthrow of the tyrants, I'm certain of that).