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MAX100
12-29-2007, 01:11
For anyone is looking to refinish a firearm this is an excellent way to do it.

The Dupli-Color ceramic added high heat engine paint is excellent to refinish shotgun barrels or receivers or any other firearm that you are looking to put a parkerized looking matte black finish on. It will withstand heat up to 1200 degrees. It is Tough cured finish that resists oil, gas grease, rust, salt, humidity, and solvents. I have used it on many firearms with very good factory looking results. It is tougher that Duracoat or Gun-Kote finish that cost about four times more. It cost about $6 from your auto parts store. (Part # DH 1602 High Heat Black) gives a nice matte black looking finish. You have to prep the surface well like you do with Gun-Kote bake on finish. I heat the part to 100 degrees before I start. I usually put two light coats with 10 min wait between coats. The directions says to hold 10" -12" from surface but at the end of the 2nd coat I hold it out a little further to give it a dusting for that light rough parkerized looking finish. Then you let it dry for about 20 mins and bake it in the oven on 400 for 1.5 hours.

Get the Dupli-Color High Heat 1200 degree engine paint only, it is tough as nails.


Here is the Dupli-Color link so you will know what to look for:

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html

Here is a picture of a mag tube ext I refinished with the Dupli-Color 1200 degree High Heat Black. This Magazine Tube Extension is on a H&R Excel Auto 5. By the way the Excel Auto 5 is an excellent low cost shotgun, very reliable.

This will give you a good idea of what your finish will look like after it has cured.


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii299/MAX100/EXCELA5-1.jpg





GC

Triggerbender
12-29-2007, 08:03
Looks good, did you use their primer or just the paint?

MAX100
12-29-2007, 12:59
Don't use a primer. You want it to bond to the metal. Bare metal is best but you can spray it over a matte blue finish or parkerized finish. The part you are refinishing can't have a polished slick surface. If it does rough it up a little with sand paper.


GC

g19nky
12-31-2007, 23:44
Maxx I was wanting to do this to my 1300 defender to make it look more "tactical" the only thing I questioned was would 0000 steel wool work to rough the surface?

What about the pins? just keep them blued? or install them and paint over them?

when you put them in the oven does it stink "piss off the mrs.?" and how long does the stink last since she works until 5pm :embarassed:

how did you put the parts in the oven on the grill or a pan or? the reason I ask is if I were to paint the barrel when it heats up does it soften enough to make dimples from the grill lines?

I realize you did a small part but I'm hoping others have tried this on receivers etc.

Allman
01-01-2008, 11:06
Just a suggestion for easily placing things in the oven:

I made a "T" bar form 5/16 rod (available at any home improvement or hardware store) with the "T" being about 8 inches long and the leg extending completely the full width of the inside of the oven. The purpose of using a "T" is top prevent the rod from slipping out angularly and dropping the part.

I just take the racks out and use this to suspend parts inside the oven. Shotgun barrels, receivers, frames, etc, are just put over the rod, other parts suspended by wire from it. If you're going to use it for barrels make it from appropriately sized brass rod or suspend the barrel from it using bare copper wire through the bore (don't want to shove a rough steel rod or wire through the barrel). You can hook everything up to the gimmick before painting and then transfer it to the oven easily enough, eliminating the potential of messing up the finish in the process.

Use weld, braze, silver solder or any solder that is of a higher melting temp that you will be running the oven at to assemble the two pieces of rod to form the "T". This is one of the simplest and handiest gadgets I've made lately, and takes no almost thought or skill to make.

Of course, most finishes will warn against using the kitchen cooking oven for curing, so I never do this. Just made the suspension rod for the fun of it.

MAX100
01-01-2008, 23:58
Good advice by Allman You don't want it to touch anything because it will mess your finish up. The smell is not bad so you should be Okay with the Mrs. I have done many other guns also: AK47, Desert Eagle slide, Tech 9, couple of shotguns...ect. You can try the steel wool but I would use a rough sandpaper 100 or 150 grit and very lightly go over the surface, go against the grain or in circles. You don't want to remove any metal. If the receiver is aluminum don't sand the surface because you need the top harder layer. I would leave the pins blue but you can coat the outside of them if you think it will look better. Practice on some metal before you start. You have plenty of paint. Turn the can upside down and spray air to clear the nuzzle and store it inside when you are finished and you will able to use it again later on. I wouldn't bake it any longer than 2 hours on 400. The temp needs to be around 70 degrees or above in the area you paint in. Good Luck and post pictures when you are through.



This would be an excellent finish for anyone wanting to refinish a Glock Slide. Just remove the plastic sights. It will look like a new gun.


GC

Allman
01-02-2008, 08:46
FWIW, I tried this stuff out last night, Not on a firearm but as a test on a barrel vise I had just made and was contemplating descaling and bluing. Seemed like it would be a lot less trouble to just paint it with this and it should both be exposed to heavy duty use test and an example of what to expect in appearance.

I've got to admit I'm impressed with both the ease and the result. It looks great with a very low luster flat appearance and seems (at least so far) to be quite tough and at least comparable to any gun finish I've used. It went on over the scale (unfinished) part of the vise quite well although the surface imperfections can obviously be seen and looks as good as many commercial steel products I've seen coming from a real factory. The finish on the milled and bored surfaces looks really beautiful and did not take anything but degreasing to get a truly fine application (no rough surfacing).

I can't believe how easy this is to put on, it's several notches easier than Duracoat to apply and Duracoat is really easy. I set my oven to temp and it came out about 430 and I didn't feel like adjusting it so I baked it at that for an hour and a half (only being a barrel vise and the paint rated at 1200 degrees I didn't care to be that accurate). This stuff gives a beautiful, even, smooth and run free surface with absolutely no special care. The baking odor isn't all that bad and doesn't seem to smell up the oven after baking, but the spraying is something that should really be done outdoors, in a garage or shop, or in a very well ventilated area (don't use your kitchen even if it's the only warm area handy, trust me on this).

Some of the other colors look interesting (blue and aluminum), I might try them on something. I'm thinking of doing a little .25 Tanfoglio I have that is finish worn (don't really use it anymore, no mice left) with the slide in this and the frame in Duracoat or Durabake to see how the two compare, side by side, wear wise.

Thanks for the information on this, I would never have thought of it without your post.

MAX100
01-02-2008, 12:59
I though I would share this paint with everyone because of the high prices being charged for firearms paints. I learned about it by reading an old article by a gunsmith who refinished a receiver on a Ruger 10/22 with bake on auto engine paint. It was before they had the firearms finish paints they do now. He tried engine paint and got excellent results. I looked for some and tried the Dupli-Color. I have known about it for about 10 years or so. Recently I have heard of others using bake on engine paint also.

The surface should only be roughed up when it is a polished surface. Matte or Parkerized surfaces that have been bead blasted don't need it. You can paint over them. Parkerzied type finishes that rub off easy, which some do that were cheaply or not applied correctly. I would get as much of the "loose" finish off as possible before applying. A good example would be the finish you find on the WASR 10 AK47, it comes off easy in places around the gun. Just rub it with coarse steel wool or lightly with sandpaper to get the loose finish off.


GC

Texas_XD
01-03-2008, 08:23
Curious if anyone has tried this on a Glock slide yet and what special prep it would need? I know remove sights and internals like the firing pin. Just wondering if i should tape any areas off like the rails and sight notches?

MAX100
01-03-2008, 11:02
It would be excellent for a Glock slide. You will need to tape off the the inside dovetail cuts because it will add dimensions. The rails on the side of the slide will be ok. Also tape any lettering with very thin non sticky tape and spray those areas lightly at the end. The lettering on the slide is so fine it is going to be hard to keep from filling it in. If you hold the can way back and dust it that will probably work. I would say practice on some scrap metal. You can put a scratch in the metal about as deep as the lettering on a Glock and see what happens.


GC

Texas_XD
01-03-2008, 11:35
It would be excellent for a Glock slide. You will need to tape off the the inside dovetail cuts because it will add dimensions. The rails on the side of the slide will be ok. Also tape any lettering with very thin non sticky tape and spray those areas lightly at the end. The lettering on the slide is so fine it is going to be hard to keep from filling it in. If you hold the can way back and dust it that will probably work. I would say practice on some scrap metal. You can put a scratch in the metal about as deep as the lettering on a Glock and see what happens.


GC


I had actually considered just filling in the lettering with crayon then after sparaying remove. Not sure it would work.. but I can try, this poor thing has more bare spots from holster wear then finish.

MAX100
01-03-2008, 12:40
I would say this finish is as tough as the finish that comes on the Glocks now. Try it out on some scarp metal, you will have plenty of paint. With this finish your Glock will look like new. Post some picture after you are through.


GC

sharpshooter
01-03-2008, 13:23
The regular DupliColor Engine Enamel completely dissolves when sprayed with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, and Gun Scrubber. You don't even have to scrub it, just spray it on and the finish literally melts off. I learned that the hard way myself.

The regular DupliColor engine enamel is different from the bake on high temp stuff. I've never tried the bake on stuff, and I don't know if it melts with brake cleaner or not.

MAX100
01-03-2008, 17:46
The enamel is different than the 1200 degree High Heat it is not as durable that is why I suggested the 1200 High Heat only. I don't believe the 1200 High Heat would be affected by brake cleaner, carb cleaner, and Gun Scrubber. I know Duracoat would have a problem with these cleaners. I haven't had any problems with gun cleaners on any the the guns I've done with the 1200 High Heat

The camo finish you find on shotguns you have to watch what cleaner you use on them.

But I say test the High Heat out and see.

GC

sharpshooter
01-03-2008, 23:11
Duracoat won't stand up to brake cleaner or gun scrubber???

wallew
01-04-2008, 00:04
I spent most of my time working for Rocky Mtn Arms disassembling firearms so they could be 'Bear Coated' and then reassembling firearms after that had been done. A side note is that SIGS have really tight tolerances and are a screaming beotch to reassemble without marring the finish if you are not VERY careful. But SIGS are great hand guns BECAUSE of their tight tolerances.

Bear Coat is a teflon paint, mainly used to coat the landing gears on F-15 fighters. It's REALLY expensive, like $10k a gallon. Yes, they do thin it out, because otherwise it's WAY too thick to put on a firearm.

Crayons or other things mentioned to fill the lettering will work. Right up until you put it in the oven. THEN it will melt all over that nice new paint job.

Also, consider grit blasting the parts you are considering painting. Oh, and USE PLASTIC GLOVES once you've got your surfaces clean and are ready to paint. You'd be surprised how well a finger print shows up. Your skin is just oily enough to pass that onto a newly bead or grit blasted piece of metal.

And unless you live alone, have a REALLY understanding wife, or are looking to get divorced, DO NOT USE the same oven that your wife cooks your meals in. Slight a chance as it is, you can literally have gasses come off the paint as it's drying in the oven that can be transfered to food your wife puts in the oven later. Don't ask. Personal experience. Cost me a new oven for my wife. And then a new stove top. And then a new refrigerator.

But this IS an excellent way to refinish a firearm. Or almost any other metal you wish to do this to.

A couple of items. You can ALSO use 'BBQ Grill' paint - it's good to at least 1200, though your color choices are pretty limited. I buy mine at Lowes in really large cans for like $3 -$4 each, but it has been a while. I tend to buy things in large quantities so I don't have to keep going back.

I use coat hangers to hang things in 'my' oven. Ask me WHERE I got this oven from. Remember I said "Cost me a new oven"? Guess where the old one ended up? Yep. In my shop. Comes in really handy.

Last, but not least, if you are using this method on pieces that will NOT see high heat (like that mag extension on that shotgun) and ARE looking for a flat finish, then hit it with one or two coats of 'Matte Clear' paint. It literally will take a dull flat paint and bring it to life. Not shiny really. More of an 'in between' flat paint and a gloss paint. I've used this trick on NUMEROUS items, including when I refinished the steel wheels on my military Blazer. Looks just like factory. If that's 'too glossy', hit it LIGHTLY with another coat of flat. FROM AT LEAST 16 inches and it looks spectacular.

I've also used powder coating, but that's for another thread.

Bren
01-04-2008, 05:50
It would be excellent for a Glock slide. You will need to tape off the the inside dovetail cuts because it will add dimensions. The rails on the side of the slide will be ok. Also tape any lettering with very thin non sticky tape and spray those areas lightly at the end. The lettering on the slide is so fine it is going to be hard to keep from filling it in. If you hold the can way back and dust it that will probably work. I would say practice on some scrap metal. You can put a scratch in the metal about as deep as the lettering on a Glock and see what happens.


GC

I don't know about this stuff, but I've sandblasted and finished a few guns with both duracoat and GunKote and even the finest lettering comes through very clear. I thought it would be a problem too, but it isn't.

Texas_XD
01-04-2008, 08:57
Crayons or other things mentioned to fill the lettering will work. Right up until you put it in the oven. THEN it will melt all over that nice new paint job.

That thought occured to me about 1 hr after I posted.. :)



And unless you live alone, have a REALLY understanding wife, or are looking to get divorced, DO NOT USE the same oven that your wife cooks your meals in. Slight a chance as it is, you can literally have gasses come off the paint as it's drying in the oven that can be transfered to food your wife puts in the oven later. Don't ask. Personal experience. Cost me a new oven for my wife. And then a new stove top. And then a new refrigerator.

But this IS an excellent way to refinish a firearm. Or almost any other metal you wish to do this to.

I just bought all that a year ago and have NO intentions of replacing any of it for at least 5 yrs. I was thinking of an old toaster over since it is just a slide. I may have to entend the bake time some but that's better than a $750 new stove/range!



A couple of items. You can ALSO use 'BBQ Grill' paint - it's good to at least 1200, though your color choices are pretty limited. I buy mine at Lowes in really large cans for like $3 -$4 each, but it has been a while. I tend to buy things in large quantities so I don't have to keep going back.


I was wondering about the longitivity of this, it will see a lot of holstering and I don't want to have to re-do it every 2 months.

rgregoryb
01-04-2008, 16:17
I have refinished the stock of a mauser FR8, that was really banged up and was patched in several places with Duplicolor spray truck bed liner. The stock looks like a new synthetic stock. It is as tough as nails.

Fr8 stocks if you can find them cost as much as a full gun........ a new stock for 8.00 out of a can

wallew
01-04-2008, 16:46
I just bought all that a year ago and have NO intentions of replacing any of it for at least 5 yrs. I was thinking of an old toaster over since it is just a slide. I may have to entend the bake time some but that's better than a $750 new stove/range!

I was wondering about the longitivity of this, it will see a lot of holstering and I don't want to have to re-do it every 2 months.


I can actually help you with the cost of a new stove and or stovetop/oven combo. Go to Habitat for Humanity Resale store. Not sure where De Leon, Tx is (sad comment for an old Texas hand - most of my relatives still live in Texas). But most larger cities have one or two. I paid $125 for a like new Jennair double oven and $25 for a like new Jennair stovetop. The reefer is a used SubZero that we paid $250 for. But we now have basically brand new kitchen appliances on the cheap.

I can't say about longevity with a firearm that's in a holster a lot. But I can say that the wheels on my truck still look great after almost one year of driving it. It seems pretty tough, but as with ANY refinish, wear IS a concern. But I don't mind refinishing a piece once or twice a year. Especially with paint that is as inexpensive as the BBQ Grill paint.

Hope that helps.

eXe
01-05-2008, 15:07
Well I have been looking at this thread for a while so I figured I would give it a try,

I have a Glock slide in the oven as I type this baking, it looks AMAZING right now.. we will see how it looks after 2 hours.. lol I'm sure it will come out great.

This is a 3rd gen Glock 17 that had been carried a whole lot when I got it (I suspect it was a police trade in because the internals and barrel were like new) so I had it as my truck gun.. but it was looking pretty beat up. I roughed it up a bit with steel wool but it was already rather rough, then I cleaned it up with soap and water after a dunk in degreaser.

Cant wait to see how it comes out.. come on and hurry up 2 hours lol.

I will post pics when it is done.

Texas_XD
01-05-2008, 16:12
I have a Glock slide in the oven as I type this baking, it looks AMAZING right now.. we will see how it looks after 2 hours.. lol I'm sure it will come out great.

Cant wait to see how it comes out.. come on and hurry up 2 hours lol.

I will post pics when it is done.


Mine in oven now too! I just used Grill paint as that is all I can find in THREE towns, not a drop of dupli-color to be found. :crying: I coated it 3 times lightly and have it around 350 degrees now. About another hr and we'll see, it's just meant for a temp fix till I can afford something like Cera-hide. Too many costly medical issues with our baby to blow too large a funds where "momma" notices!

I am hoping the glossiness calms down when it cools. Right now it looks exactly like gloss paint.

eXe
01-05-2008, 16:33
I just took mine out of the oven and I am letting it cool. The glossyness calms down its a nice flat black finish. Once its cold enough Ill stick the sights back on and take some pics.. right now its too darn hot to do much of anything with :)

Not a really stinky smell either, it was smelly but nothing serious. I did notice it smoked a bit when it got hot but all seems ok. The finish is dry to the touch and feels almost like it was parkerized.

eXe
01-05-2008, 17:09
well, please excuse my crummy photo skills.. lol and my cheap camera, but you get the idea.

This slide was worn down with holster wear pretty badly, and now it looks pretty darn good. Looks much better in person, its almost as good as the factory finish.

Let's just hope it holds up well :)

FWIW I accidentally sprayed some hoppes on it, wiped it off expecting that the coating would come with it, but it did not.. not even a bit of it. Looks like it will hold up well.

I put the sights back on easily, and put the whole thing back togehter for a few pics.

Texas_XD
01-05-2008, 17:44
LOL.. I got to go get mine out, I just turned off the oven and letting it sit in there to cool. Should be ready by now and once my new rear sight comes in, I'll be set.. I hope.

BlenderWizard
01-05-2008, 18:24
4 or 6 ga. bare copper ground wire is what I have used to make "mounts" for baking firearm parts. you can make any shape you need.

MAX100
01-05-2008, 18:40
eXe Great Job the Glock looks nice just right. You did well on the lettering.

Usually if the results are a glossier finish you are holding the can to close or spraying to heavy with the 1200 degree HH Black.


GC

Texas_XD
01-05-2008, 18:51
eXe Great Job the Glock looks nice just right. You did well on the lettering.

Usually if the results are a glossier finish you are holding the can to close or spraying to heavy with the 1200 degree HH Black.


GC

Well.. Good news, bad news for mine!

It came out nice, a bit of gloss, more of a fresh oiled look, which is nice to me. Lettering is just fine, everything from the proof stamp to ss # is readily readable.
Now the bad news! Did you know that a firing pin channel liner and 2hrs of 350 degree heat do NOT mix well?? Well, I do now! :embarassed: During re-assembly I had issues getting the firing pin to slip back in, finally realized what the issue was, a 1/2 melted shut liner! :shocked: I obviously forgot it when I was prepping/breaking it down and trying to help my wife with the baby. Guess it is done and down till I can locate one and get it here, but it is a pretty looking paper weight. :crying:

eXe
01-05-2008, 19:11
Yeah that was the one thing I didnt take out.. The channel liner. Mine made it just fine however No melting, I did check.

Sorry to hear the news, Hope you can get it fixed quickly.

MAX100
01-05-2008, 19:12
The grill paint I've used gave a glossier finish. I did a AK barrel with some, it looked good. It was a charcoal black color. As long as you can get the melted plastic out you are OK.

The newer Glocks now, have a more glossier charcoal black finish.

GC

Texas_XD
01-05-2008, 19:44
. As long as you can get the melted plastic out you are OK.

GC


It did more of a collapse on one end, over 1/2 shut. Since I am guessing it helps keep the firing pin tip in line with the FP hole, I should just leave her be till I can get a new one. Hate to ruin a FP over this.

MAX100
01-05-2008, 20:49
I meant you would be OK until you replace the part. If melted plastic was stuck in the channel you would have a little problem.


GC

xm17sbullpup
01-06-2008, 16:39
I did my G21 today. It came out excellent. As good as the Durabake I used on a SA 1911before. And at less than $6.00 per can at NAPA a lot cheaper. After degreasing, I heated my slide to 150 degrees, then sprayed 3 light coats. After 20 minutes I baked it for 90 minutes at 400 degrees. I'm waiting for a new Heinie Front Night Sight to arrive, before I reassemble it. Thanks for the heads up Max100.

Now do I want to try the Gray Paint sometime?
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i17/E_Henckel/100_9834.jpg
Glock 21 with Heinie Sights/Tritium Front. Grip Reduction. I refinished the bed liner on the grip and refinished the slide with Dupli Color Ceramic High Temp Paint.
Yes I make the holsters in my photos.

MAX100
01-06-2008, 17:06
Show us some pictures when you take some.

If anyone is looking for free site to host your pictures so you can copy paste them right in your post go to Photobucket.com it's free.

When you have your pictures downloaded on photobucket click beside (IMG code) below your downloaded picture then click copy on your computer, click paste to paste it directly in your post. It should look something like this when you paste it before you submit it:

[IMG]photobucket..max100..::ghtrf..edtrc..///[IMG]

The picture will come up in your post so others won't have to click a link to get to your picture.



GC

swatemintx
01-06-2008, 17:27
did this to a smith... sand it down and put masking tape on the underside of the slide. =-)

eXe
01-07-2008, 09:49
Being that I had no other guns to re-finish I did an AR15 mag with this stuff.. normally I use the moly spray lube to re-finish them in the correct gray color but this stuff worked amazing. This will come in handy when I buy some older beat up AK Mags as well.. I was using BBQ paint for them.. but this method is much more permanent and looks better.

coltc
01-11-2008, 14:59
Just got done doing my Ruger I picked up. It wasn't in the best shape so I decided to give this paint a try. I'm happy with the results. I did the trim pieces in the black and the barrel and frame in the aluminum color. Blasted it all, wiped it down, painted it, baked it on. It had some rust and all on it and you can still see some of the pitting caused by the rust but it came out pretty good. It looks better in person, there is a lot of glare in the pics.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/wydrjc/Ruger2p.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee87/wydrjc/Ruger.jpg

MAX100
01-11-2008, 16:49
Good job! Looks Great! I have never seen what the Aluminum looks like. You won't have to worry about rust anymore. Thanks for the pictures.

I just did a Norinco 870 Shotgun in the black and it looks like it came from the factory that way. I will post pictures of it soon.

xm17sbullpup Your Glock looks like a new gun, Good Job! The bed liner on the grip looks nice also.


GC

Oreo
01-15-2008, 23:55
Here's a tip for you guys...

This paint is probably a decent way to refinish your guns this time, but the paint WILL wear over time & the next time you go to refinish your gun you're going to have to work your arse off to strip all the old paint off before repainting or else it will look like crap.

HOWEVER.... I discovered while using this paint to refinish the brake calipers on my car, that brake fluid will disolve this paint like liquid lightening! And it won't hurt the steel parts of your gun. (Watch out for the plastic bits though!)

Allman
01-16-2008, 11:44
Oreo,

What kind of brake fluid did you use and was the finish baked on? I just got through trying to remove the finish on the barrel vise I mentioned coating earlier with DOT 3 fluid and it wouldn't phase it. Might as well have been trying to use water.

Ripple
01-16-2008, 12:18
Brake fluid will remove most paints.. better then more paint removers on the market :)

Another thing to watch out for with this type of finish, stay away from miltech.
Have not tried it with this exact type of spray paint, but did have a issue with Krylon Fusion being melted by miltech.

Allman, did you let it sit on there? Or did you just rub it on? Let it sit overnight and it should come right off, unless its powder coated.

MAX100
01-16-2008, 13:03
Here is a picture of a Norinco 870 shotgun I just refinished with the Dupli-Color 1200 degree HH ceramic paint. It looks like it came for the factory that way. You can't see the receiver very well but the finish you see on the barrel is how the whole gun looks. A rough parkerized look.

Allman Thanks for the brake fluid results. This stuff is tough as nails.


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii299/MAX100/GCMT-1.jpg



GC

Allman
01-16-2008, 13:49
Allman, did you let it sit on there? Or did you just rub it on? Let it sit overnight and it should come right off, unless its powder coated.

Did both. I've also tried lacquer thinner which does remove it. Nothing I would normally use in cleaning guns seems to affect it, but I don't have every potential gun cleaner in my shop. I'm interested in knowing if gun scrubber, which I think may be the same as brake cleaner, affects it as I use that occasionally but don't have any on hand.

proraptor
01-19-2008, 16:13
wow....this paint looks like its worth a try....I think I might refinish my mossberg 590A1 with this stuff...Thanks for the awesome post

proraptor
01-31-2008, 15:03
Well today I decided to spary my mossberg 590a1 with this stuff....Its in the oven right now and looks very very nice! Hopefully this stuff is as tough as you guys say it is...

TGC100
01-31-2008, 21:42
proraptor Let us know how it turns out. Post Pics if you have them.

Texas357
02-01-2008, 00:13
Just found out gf's oven has been massively overshooting temp settings... just as well I didn't try this yet.

I guess this explains the burnt cookies, though...

Bren
02-01-2008, 04:51
4 or 6 ga. bare copper ground wire is what I have used to make "mounts" for baking firearm parts. you can make any shape you need.
I did the same - went to home depot and got some heavy gauge bare ground wire and used it to make hangers to hang barrels/receivers/etc under my top oven rack for baking. Then I went to Wal Mart and got a little oven thermometer that will sit right on the rack and let me look in the window and keep track of the temperature, which I keep an eye on and regulate by turning the temp control or cracking the door a little.

proraptor
02-01-2008, 08:47
I did the same - went to home depot and got some heavy gauge bare ground wire and used it to make hangers to hang barrels/receivers/etc under my top oven rack for baking. Then I went to Wal Mart and got a little oven thermometer that will sit right on the rack and let me look in the window and keep track of the temperature, which I keep an eye on and regulate by turning the temp control or cracking the door a little.

You guys are all high end and stuff...I just used clothing hanger to hang my shotgun parts from the top rack....worked great just make sure to degrease the wires or cloathing hangers also.

No pics yet o my shotgun as my camera has been missing for 2 months...sucks...But it was super easy to spray and it came out looking really nice. It seems to be holding up very very well...I might just refinish my ak with this stuff

kenleissler
02-01-2008, 10:21
Wow! This is so cool. I love this type of finish. Does this stuff have any lubricating qualities like gun-kote. If not, would this be a problem on the frame rails of a 1911?
Ken

Allman
02-01-2008, 12:31
Just found out gf's oven has been massively overshooting temp settings... just as well I didn't try this yet.

I guess this explains the burnt cookies, though...If you want to get fancy, Walmart has a digital oven temp gauge with a probe that goes into the oven (or turkey or whatever else might be inside it) for about 15 bucks. Has an alarm timer and makes it easy to regulate the correct temp and time for baking cures.

Most ovens aren't very accurate as far as the real temp and the temp on the dial, and a lot aren't even consistent from one use to another.

Texas357
02-01-2008, 16:11
If you want to get fancy, Walmart has a digital oven temp gauge with a probe that goes into the oven (or turkey or whatever else might be inside it) for about 15 bucks. Has an alarm timer and makes it easy to regulate the correct temp and time for baking cures.

Most ovens aren't very accurate as far as the real temp and the temp on the dial, and a lot aren't even consistent from one use to another.

I used a dial thermometer. When oven is set for 350, needle pointed to 650+ (not numbered that high.)

And we wondered why the frozen pizzas were so inconsistent....

xm17sbullpup
02-04-2008, 16:26
I used this to refinish my Springfield Loaded 1911. It came out just as nice as my Glock 21. After about 400 draws from my Kydex Holsters, I've gotten a small amount of wear in the usual areas, but it seems to get to a certain point and stop. It's only shown a small amount of wear on the slide rails. Nothing that you won't see with any other finish. I did my 1911 frame in Gray and decided I didn't like it. I let it soak in Brake Fluid overnight and scrubbed it with a brass brush. It took it off but it was some work. I then used Brake Cleaner Spray, which worked much better. I then redid the entire pistol in Black. As with my Glock 21 it came out just as good as the Durabake I used before. For 6bucks a can, and as easy as it is to do, if I have to refinish a firearm every 2 years, I wouldn't have a huge problem with that.

eXe
02-05-2008, 21:07
Yeah I have a working AR7 .22 rifle that I redid with it as well a few days ago.. came out SUPER nice and the cool part was it was cake to break down :) Baked it a bit too long but it still came out nice and black and it wont scratch like when you just use normal paint (Which was what was on the gun before this stuff)

Looks like its really handy.

curriek
03-30-2008, 16:39
Just thought I'd share mine. Quick question, there is a spot where the paint did not flatten (its kind of rough n pourous), do I need to remove all the paint on the whole frame and then reapply and bake? If so, what do I use? Break cleaner works?

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh144/kcurrie911/refinish.jpg

MAX100
03-30-2008, 23:56
If you just have a rough spot in the paint you can use some steel wool on it very lightly and that will smooth it out. You don't have to repaint the whole thing. You can just spray some on a small area and bake it again if you have to do some touch up.

It looks good. It looks like you did an excellent job. Which sliver color did you use.


GC

curriek
03-31-2008, 07:25
It looks good. It looks like you did an excellent job. Which sliver color did you use.


GC


Thanks, used black and aluminum (were the only colors the store had). Took a lot longer than expected to put it back together again.

jr4521
04-28-2008, 17:57
http://i28.tinypic.com/sfxeko.jpg[/IMG]


Thank you for the help, the Duplicolor worked great!

herose
04-29-2008, 01:19
Saw some dupli-color with ceremic something or other added to help heat dispersition. Thought it'd be good to use on my mini 14 barrel seeing as it has a heating problem.

Any thoughts how to bake on if you don't have an oven to use? Thinking about using a heat gun maybe.

Texas357
04-29-2008, 03:13
Saw some dupli-color with ceremic something or other added to help heat dispersition. Thought it'd be good to use on my mini 14 barrel seeing as it has a heating problem.

Any thoughts how to bake on if you don't have an oven to use? Thinking about using a heat gun maybe.

You could set up an "oven" of sorts. Use a large metal pipe, or metal-lined box, open at both ends. object goes in, heat gun blows hot air into the box, and be careful to monitor temperature.

herose
04-29-2008, 04:41
Good idea. I think I have exactly what I need in my outbuilding. Thanks

Texas357
05-01-2008, 13:24
Good idea. I think I have exactly what I need in my outbuilding. Thanks

Let me know what you work out; I'm curious where you go with it.

I was thinking of how long peices of wood can be steamed before bending by putting them in a pipe and running steam through the pipe.

dsmw5142
05-02-2008, 12:15
I tried looking for the Dupli-Color engine paint all over the place and all the auto parts stores are sold out of the black!! Your idea must have gotten out or something...

I picked up some of the BBQ grill paint and think I will try that. It has a 1200 degree rating and pretty much the same contents except the ceramic whatever. Is it equally as good? Anyone know?

Edit: I found the Dupli-Color 1200 degree paint and I am going to try it today. I will let you know and post up some pics when I am done.

rgregoryb
05-06-2008, 15:30
My Browning HP is cooking in the oven as we speak. Wife went out of town for a few days so I didn't have to ask permission. So far it looks mahvelouuuuus!
the paint did not fill in any of the lettering, proofmarks or numbers!!!

dsmw5142
05-08-2008, 22:36
Well, my shotgun came out looking great. I showed it to several people who asked... when I got the new shotgun :supergrin: LOL. I will post pics when I can and I will let you all know how it holds up after a while. I only wish I had done before/after pics. This gun really looked like crap :wow:

Oh yeah, I used a bit of "Old English" (dark) furniture polish/scratch cover on the stock and fore end. It looks almost like a brand new gun ;)

ETA: The smell/smoke from the oven was very mild. Nothing to be concerned about IMO. I just made some hooks from some heavy gauge wire and hung the receiver, barrel etc... from the bottom of the top rack. I attached the hooks prior to painting though, so I didn't have to handle the parts while they were wet.

rgregoryb
05-11-2008, 21:13
My BHP:

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm71/rgregoryb/DSCF0131.jpg

Looks just like the "ceramic" finish on NightHawk customs

rider
05-12-2008, 16:22
Just out of curiosity, anyone ever try any of that Brownell's Alumahyde II stuff?
Anyone with personal experience with it?
Lee

g300d
05-14-2008, 06:35
wow those guns look brand new! From the pics I wouldn't be able to tell it from a commercial plater. :cool:

Now anyone have pics of those guns after some use? Pistols with a lot of draws from the holster? I'd really like to see how they wear. :cool:

forjoshhall
02-02-2010, 17:03
Total Rookie but I think for an $85 dollar gun show shotgun it looks good now. I regret not taking any before pics but it had spotty rust on receiver and barrel and the barrel had been cut back to 20" and re-choked. this is it now after painting and baking the VHT Ceramic Header Paint that i got at the auto store. I Like it...let me know what you guys think. Remember, it was my first time.

forjoshhall
02-03-2010, 21:09
:dunno:pics are gone

hackinpeat
04-24-2011, 20:36
WARNING: Do not use winchester powder blast spray cleaner on guns using engine paint!!!!


I have a ton of paint experience, and gave this a whirl with my new (used) 10/22... thankfully I only paid $100 for the gun.

I did a great job on the paint, (pat pat on my own back.) But I got the gun in parts, so when I cleaned the barrel out with some winchester break free it wasn't attached to my newly built upper and lower. It INSTANTLY ate though the paint.

I'll get some of the solvent I see other people mention in this thread for use on the 10/22, I just thought I'd share the harsh lesson so others can avoid the pain of waiting for paint to bake for the second time around.


Another caution in case someone is...well frankly dumb...

the paint may be good for 500 degrees, but you shouldn't bake your gun above 150, even that is too high for a proper cure. at 300 degrees most steels of any carbon content will temper and soften...resulting in bad ish happening.

hackinpeat
04-27-2011, 21:40
After that boo boo I thought I'd share the project (after I fixed it.)

Here's a closeup so you can compare finishes, the mag release was anodized aluminum, the rest I painted...you can tell by the few scratches from assembly.. lol.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx266/hackinpeat/misc/ruger-10-22-2.jpg

Yeah, the stock is a bit "different." I'm a different kind of kat. I camo'd it out using a stencil I cut of the ruger logo, using rustoleum paints. The base is Drab, with some black and sand in for good measure.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx266/hackinpeat/misc/10-22-1.jpg