New J-Frame: Stiff Cylinder Release?

[Arbee]

The release on my new 642 seems to be a little stiff, but maybe it's supposed to be. The cylinder release lever moves forward about half way + and then hits stiff resistance. I tend to think it has gone all the way and then find the cylinder will not open. Maybe this keeps the cylinder from releasing accidentally, so this may just be something I need to practice with and get used to.

Can anyone speak to this?

Thanks,

Arbee

[G27Chief]

Assuminmg this is a locking version of the model, I will say that you have probally a burr or "ridge" in the indent in the frame to accomdate the release. The release "rides" along a cutout and actuates off of a flat coil spring.

Work it with the cylinder out and see if you still meet this resistance. If so then either there is a burr, spring guide problem as a possibility.

[Berto]

Make sure the ejector rod is tight.
It's reverse threaded.

[Arbee]

Assuminmg this is a locking version of the model, I will say that you have probally a burr or "ridge" in the indent in the frame to accomdate the release. The release "rides" along a cutout and actuates off of a flat coil spring.

Work it with the cylinder out and see if you still meet this resistance. If so then either there is a burr, spring guide problem as a possibility.

Right, it's a locking version. With the cylinder open, the release is in the forward position and moves back and forth with no resistance.

Make sure the ejector rod is tight.
It's reverse threaded.
Ejector rod is tight.

[Dot_mdb]

Check the pin under the barrel where the ejector rod is locked. If this is an older gun it is possible that there is some corrosion in there and that can be causing the problem. I had an older 640 that had that problem and S&W fixed it for me a few years ago.

Bill

[G33]

Use key and work lock back and forth.
:supergrin:

[Arbee]

Check the pin under the barrel where the ejector rod is locked. If this is an older gun it is possible that there is some corrosion in there and that can be causing the problem. I had an older 640 that had that problem and S&W fixed it for me a few years ago.

Bill

Thanks, but this is brand new, not yet fired.

[G27Chief]

If in battery is is tight, make sure the lock is in the out of cam position (unlocked) and usiing a flat instrument or your thumb press the lock up pin on the cylinder to see it is floats free on the spring. Check the front of the ejector rod and make sure it is tight.

[Arbee]

If in battery is is tight, make sure the lock is in the out of cam position (unlocked) and usiing a flat instrument or your thumb press the lock up pin on the cylinder to see it is floats free on the spring. Check the front of the ejector rod and make sure it is tight.

Thanks. In battery it is tight. Lockup pin floats fee on the spring. Ejector rod tight.

I have a slight weakness in my right hand, so while the cylinder release is stiffer than on my Det Sp, it may be within normal limits. I'll check a new 642 in a gun shop soon just to be sure.

Thanks everyone.

[LSP972]

Thanks, but this is brand new, not yet fired.


Doesn't matter. There might be a bit of crud, machining residue, whatever, in there that prevents the locking bolt (the proper term for that part) to move forward far enough to allow the rear of the center pin to clear the recoil shield.

DO NOT try to remove the part; just use something under pressure to flush the area.

Also (and this is the most likely cause), clean thoroughly under the extractor star. The slightlest bit of foreign matter under there will cause what you describe.

.

[Arbee]

Thanks. I am going to give it a thorough cleaning and see if that helps. Just working the cylinder release seems to have helped some.

Can you be more specific about using "something under pressure".

[LSP972]

You bet.

Get a can of carburetor cleaner, install the little plastic tube, and blast out that area.

Be careful with this stuff; its an excellent cleaner, but it removes all traces of lubrication. The non-chlorinated variety (says so on the can) is safe for plastics and polymers, but it is NOT a substitute for regular cleaning methods. Some places, though, nothing else will do the trick if you cannot disassemble the parts.

.

[Arbee]

Thanks. That helps. I'll get some and report back.