SA 1911 safety removal question.

[rfb45colt]

Maybe a forum devoted to Glocks is the wrong place for this question, but I've found the most knowledgeable people use this forum... so I'll try here first. I bought a SA Ultra Compact V-10 about a month ago. It has just the right handed safety, and I'm a lefty. I've found some ambi safety levers in my Brownells catalog. I want to install one. Before I start "tinkering" with it, I need to know how to remove and replace the safety lever. I usually don't ask first, and just go ahead and do my thing, but I paid a lot of money for this pistol and I don't want to screw it up. There are no gunsmiths nearby. I've been "tinkering" with my guns for 30+ years, and having been a full time professional locksmith for 17 years, I'm more than used to working with small parts and mechanisms of all kinds. (the similarity between the inner working of some guns and some locks is amazing). It appears to me that it just can be pushed out from the other side with a brass pin punch, but I thought I'd ask here for advice (a rarity) before I muck it up. I bought a book about 1911A1s at a gun show this morning, but it shows just about everything on a 1911 but how to remove and replace the safety lever... so it must be rediculously easy... or too hard to attempt. There's a section on replacing the hammer, and the first step is to "remove the safety lever"... but it doesn't say how. Duh???? I know I'll feel like an idiot after this is answered, but I'd feel more stupid if I screw up my SA.

[JWP]

from J Kuhnhausen's 45 auto shop manual

remove slide

if hammer is not at full cock make it so.
grip the safety firmly and move it to about 1/2 the way toi safety position.
begin drawing it out as you start to rotate the safety lever.
burrs or tight fit may require wiggling the safety as you reach the release point.

reassembly is the reverse

[Butch]

Yup, that's about it, but be aware that there is a spring and plunger that will be freed when the safety comes out, and occasionally, it may move towards the rear of the gun rather quickly. And, reasembly requires that it be depressed.

[glockshear]

Please be aware that the pad on the safety might need fitting to clear the trigger bow. If you do not know how to do this,PLEASE send it to a gunsmith or the factory. I have seen many people try this without knowing about the engagement surfaces. They invariably ruin the thumb safety.
Stay safe,
Albert Shear

[ipscshooter]

If there is no way to get to a gunsmith, at the very least send for Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on 1911's, "The Colt .45 Automatic-A Shop Manual".

Also, be aware that you very likely will have to relieve the back side of the right grip panel for clearance for the retaining leg on the right side of the ambi safety. Check an ambi out in your Brownell's and you will see a piece that needs to fit under the right grip panel.

Removing the safety is as written elsewhere, however I find that you need to do a bit pulling along with the wiggling up and down.

After the safety is out lower the hammer slowly. Don't just pull the trigger. Frame damage can result.

This is so you don't accidently pull the trigger.

Pull out the plunger and spring. The spring should have a little twist in it. There are actually two plungers. One on either end of the spring.

Take a break.

Now, look at the parts and see where the contact surfaces are on the safety and sear in the gun. You can probably see on the old safety where material was removed.

Cock the hammer and go to it.

The safety blocks the sear and the new safety will have extra metal (tolerances you know) that will need to be removed so it can slide in front of the sear as you push it in. Taking your time here is important. Take too much off and the safety is history. A bit off, fit, a bit off, fit.......you get the idea.

Once you get it in flick it up and down a few times to see if it's moving okay. Resist the temptation to pull the trigger.

Pull it out and reinstall the plunger and spring. Depress the spring and push the safety back in.

Now you can slip the right side into the the frame. They work together through a "tab and slot" arrangement.

Install the grip panel, put the slide on and function test. No ammo please.

If all is ok, flick the safety up and down. No flick? You may need a small detent in the back of the safety. Brownell's sells a small bit that fits through the pluger hole to add detents to slide stops and safeties or you can try a dremel. Maybe mark you spot with some bluing or magic marker Again, go lightly. It only takes a little bit. Of course, if you go the dremel route, you need to take the safety out.

Good Luck and Shoot Safe
ipscshooter

[rfb45colt]

Thanks for all the replies.

A few comments:

The illustrations of the ambi-safeties in Brownells are actually quite informative. They have ambi-safeties by Ed Brown, Wilson, Les Baer, McCormick, and a few others.

The "pad" on the right side appears no larger than the left side. The Ultra Compact has a Hogue grip, and clearance should be no problem if the right side of the safety isn't any larger than the left... and in the catalog it looks to be the same size, or even a little smaller.

I had to chuckle a little about "removing a little at a time", because this is how I've been fitting keys for some locks for 17 years, and that's second nature to me (making things fit by filing off a little at a time, sometimes as little as 0.001"), but it's good advice none the less. Thanks.

The Brownell's illustrations shows the "tab" where the two parts of an ambi-safety fit together. Just like the pivot pins on some panic-exit bars. Much harder to take these apart than to snap them together, so checking to make sure everything works OK before installing the right-hand side lever (the lever used by lefties) is a good idea, if that's possible.

Before I do anything, I'm going to call Springfield and see what they say about this. They may do this for me at a reasonable cost (although two way shipping of a handgun likely will cost more than the actual safety installation.) I know I can do this properly, but.... this pistol came with a lifetime warranty, and I don't want to destroy that to save a few bucks. Springfield has other models that have an ambi-safety (don't know why they all don't), and they can likely swap mine out.

Thanks again for all the good advice.

BTW... I did remove and replace the existing safety after reading the responses here, without any problems. It was just as I thought... but it doesn't hurt to ask.

[Michigun]

I'm not adding a thing to this "post" worth a penny, but... It's "topics" like this that make me appreciate the simplicity of the GLOCK design even more!:)

[ipscshooter]

To Michigun: You're right about Glocks. Simple, but effective.

rfb45colt
The pad that you can rest your thumb to move the safety is usually smaller on the right side (viewing from reat of gun)on most ambi safeties. Another concession to the right-handers. Only used in weak hand situations. Unfortunately for us lefties, we have to make do, if we shoot left handed. What I was refering to on the right side is more like a leg that sticks down along the side of the frame on the right side. It gets tucked underneath the right grip panel and keeps the safety from walking out. The grip panel needs to be releived to make clearance for this.

"A little at a time" was just a warning to avoid ruining a $60 safety. As a watch maker I'm sure you could handle it, knowing the risks going in.

Springfield would probably honor your warranty if the breakage was not safety related, but it sure can't hurt to find out and be sure. I'm sure Springfield qould do the work. My guess is it will cost you about $100 or so, not including shipping.

Good Luck and shoot safe
ipscshooter

[ipscshooter]

Locksmith NOT watchmaker. Oops!

[rfb45colt]

Originally posted by ipscshooter


.... What I was refering to on the right side is more like a leg that sticks down along the side of the frame on the right side. It gets tucked underneath the right grip panel and keeps the safety from walking out. The grip panel needs to be releived to make clearance for this.....


When I said "pad" I was referring to the same part you called "leg". If the right grip panel is used to retain the right side safety lever, can this be done with the rubber Hogue grips? I'd rather just have a right handed safety than give up those great Hogue grips. I've been adapting to the right-handed world for 52 years. I can live with it as is.

Here's a photo of the grips, clearance, etc. The pivot hole for the safety (which also holds the top of the grip safety) is, at it's closest point, 13/16" from the edge of the rubber grip.

[ipscshooter]

You should be able to remove the material from the grip panel. Might be a little tough with the rubber like material gumming up the works. At any rate it will be tedious unless you have a milling machine, but it can be done. You may find that you have to remove a bit of material at the top of the grip also for the safety to snick all the way down. I have had to do that on wood grips. Depends on the combo of grip and safety.

I can see where the finger groove Hogue's would help hold that puppy down. I have a Kimber Ultra in 45 and if the front strap wasn't checkered it would be a handful. Of course, I don't have the fire breathing comp cuts to help.

[bnlchris18]

Im about to order the Taurus PT 1911, but I want to order the Hogue finger grove rubber grips. The gun has an ambi safety so I have no idea if the grips will fit. If not, how would I go about the process of making the correct fittings? Thanks