reloads with 158 gr bullet -TEST DONE

[armed&well]

caliber: .357 SIG
case : Fiocchi .40 S&W formed to .357 SIG
Puwder : VV 3N37 = 5,4 gr
Primer: CCI-500
Bullet;m : H&N 158gr CUHS .357 Diameter (lead platted flat point)
C.o.l. : 1.148 inch
Test Gun: Glock 31

V 2m = 836 fps; Factor=132


Verry precise,100% reliability, low blast and recoil - a real *****-cat.

I shot 100 of those and everything looks O.K. No overpressure signs- all primers are rounded.

For a plinker it's great.

No warrant on loading data!!!

What do you guys and girls think

;d I'm I loosing it or what?

[grenadier]

In my opinion, forming 357 Sig cases from .40 brass is a bad idea, since you usually end up with a casing that is shorter than genuine 357 Sig brass.

Now, if someone were to form 357 Sig cases from 10 mm brass, that may not be such a bad thing, but then you get into the complexity of having to readjust your loads because you are now using a large pistol primer.

[caz223]

Most of the time, if you got a gun that headspaces ok , you'll be ok.
Brass formed from .40 is shorter, but the shoulder is what counts.
That being said, use common sense working up full-power loads.
The brass might not be as good.
Also 10mm brass is thicker at the web, so you may not be able to get as much powder in there, and normal loads might turn into compressed loads.
A good way to check it is to trim some 10mm brass to same length as a .40, put identical powder charges in them, and see which one looks more full.
Mixing and matching brass is not the way to extreme accuracy.

[EOD3]

;m ;m ;m Forget about the brass... Pushing a .357 bullet down a .355 bore is VERY dangerous. Pressure is likely to be erratic and the chances of a catastrophic failure (read KA-BOOM) are too high to ignore. If you insist, I recommend you call your insurance agent and get a really good AD&D policy.

[Fredalso]

.40 brass means an even shorter neck that standard, which menas less neck tension on the bullet, which means more chance of bullet setback. Also, a .40 case is of weaker construction at the base.

A jacketed (plating is a jacket) .357 bullet in .355 bore means more pressure, even with a light load of slow powder (which is admitedly a good choice if you must fire oversized bullets).

I'm a little surprised that accuracy was good, since there is a good chance of stripping the plating.

I wouldn't do either.
If I wanted a heavy bullet, I'd look for a 147gr TC or RNFP bullet with a short nose section.

[armed&well]

Before loading this batch I called bullet manufacturer (Headler&Natterman) and for glock 9 mm barrels they recommend ussing their .357 dimeter bullets(lead platted).

I was guite nervous firing the first round - for this I ussed .357 sig brass and (5,2 gr of 3N37) I held the gun only with one hand (no mag inserted) as far away from me as as I could. To my surprize no big bang or blast so I procedeed to 5,8 gr.No problem either and only then I loaded previously mentioned batch.Accuracy wasn't just good it was superb.

Anyway I don't feel very save with this combo ( very heavy bullet and perhaps oversized) and would rather usse 147 grainers too.

I don't recommend that you try the same thing at home (kids).
I did it just for the sake of doing it.

[armed&well]

caliber: .357 SIG
case : Fiocchi .40 S&W formed to .357 SIG
Puwder : VV 3N37 = 5,4 gr
Primer: CCI-500
Bullet : PMC 158gr SP SWC.357 Diameter
C.o.l. : 1.137 inch, roll crimp
Test Gun: Glock 31

Verry precise,100% reliability, low blast and recoil - but a bit more than platted bulets.

I shot 30 of those and everything looks O.K. No overpressure signs- all primers are rounded.

No warrant on loading data!!! - don't do this at home kids.

[BJSM16]

Armed&Well,
I have been reloading .357 sig for the last 2yrs now and have a question for you. I once reloaded formed .40 s&w brass with a .356 bullet and had very good results. I am having a hard time finding any bullets, other than Hornady XTP HP, that will work and meet the cartridge OAL because regular 9mm bullets are too long and will not crimp. Have you ever used formed .40S&W brass with regular 9mm bullets? If so what kind of results have you gotten? Also, do you know of any place that makes a 9mm flat point hollow point bullet in the 158gr category, or close to it? That has been on my mind for some time. I am trying to reaserch the use of a suppressor for .357 sig with a very heavy bullet at aroung 1000 fps. Anyway, sorry to get side tracked. Can you help me? Thanks, Brandon.;f

[armed&well]

I use mostly normal 9 mm bullets (.355 dia) and almost exclusevely formed .40 S&W brass. Round nose bullets don't work because they have to long ogive.
I use Flat pointed bullets (123 gr)- some brands have enough bearing surface that contact between end of case neck and bullet is firm enough.

Try plated bullets - Berries or West Coast - that's what people use I read here.

As I can recall the haviest bulets in 9 mm is 150 gr from Nosler- if you down load a bit you could probably suppprese it.

Technicaly not to sound idea, and you didn't hear it from me ;) is tu use .357 dia bullets with JHP design.Probably would be fasible with glock poligonal barrell - I'm rather tempted to try Hornady XTP.

If you realy don't need JHP design then try lead .357 dia or plated bulets .355 -.357.

Hope that helps and do not hesitate to ask

[petej88]

So what did the barrel look like after firing a batch of .357 bullets through your pistol? Are you using polygonal rifling or standard?

Maybe your .357 lead is soft enough to reshape? I know that with Oregon Trail hard lead bullets, their 9mm is .356 so it will contact sufficiently with the barrel to seal properly. But .357 just doesn't sound right. Call Oregon Trail Laser Cast and get a second opinion.

[armed&well]

After shooting 40 PMC JSP bullets the barell looked a bit scarry - Lots of jacket material in the lands (they've looked very yellow).
I intend to thouroughly clean the barrel after few dozen of those.( I loaded 100 of those and really don't want to work the bullet puller
- me lazy).

When ussing lead soft plated (H&N 158 gr .357 dia) - the barrel didn't look that dramatic - I would feel comfortable shooting 100- 200 of those before cleaning.


Petej, it is a real honor to reading from you.

[armed&well]

I'm ussing factory Glock barrel (31).

I know that people in Germany use Speer 125 gr SP .357 Bullet for SD and hunting - because HP bullets are baned there - so it can be done - pushing .357 diam. bullet through 9 mm barrel.
If somebody must use .357 diam jacked bullets than Speer's Hot-Core design sound interesting.

But generally :


USE ONLY 9 mm BULLETS - .355 dia!!!!!!!!

[ryucasta]

Armed & Well,

The Nosler reloading guide number 4 actually recommend the use of a 357 diameter bullet for 38 super so it's not as uncommon as some believe.

[ryucasta]

BSM16,

Just about any FP or HP bullet in 9mm/355 should satisfy most of your requirements. In the following attachment, I’m using formed 40 S&W brass with a 124 grain Rainer/Berry’s plated bullet and 5.2 grains of N320 seated to an OAL of 1.135. I mainly use this load for USPSA Production and IDPA competition.

Now with regards to the sonic crack just keep your loads below 1000 FPS and you just won half the battle. http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/sound/souspe.html

[BJSM16]

Thanks a lot for the info Armed&Well and ryucasta. I appreciate it. Brandon.

[roygun]

Good thread there boys!

[petej88]

Did a quick test.

http://petej55.home.mindspring.com/radical.357.bullet.htm

[armed&well]

caliber: .357 SIG
case : Fiocchi .40 S&W formed to .357 SIG
Puwder : VV 3N37 = 5,4 gr
Primer: CCI-500
Bullet : H&N 158gr .357 Diameter CUHS (platted flat point)
C.o.l. : 1.135 inch, roll crimp


I shot 500 of those till now and I can say that it works for me just fine. 100% reliability, precise as hell, verry firm grip of the bullet with case neck(so I'm not nervous hendling bullets with greassy hands(from case lube).

But because 158 gr hit a bit high - about 3 inches on 25 yards I will try it with 147 grainers (.357 platted).