Airweight Frame Finish

[KYMike]

Hey everyone,

Just a quick question on frame finish for the newer Airweights. I've seen some awfully ugly examples of the clearcoat J-frames, and some really ugly examples of the resulting corrosion to the Al underneath, even to the point of freezing the cylinder.

So...here's my question. Actually, a series of sub-questions.
1) Is the clearcoat durable enough for everyday use? (I only use CLP to clean my Airweights at the advice of S&W.)
2) If (should I say WHEN) the clearcoat does peel, should I have it refinished immediately to keep sweat/rain/etc. from corroding the Al? Or would proper care keep the raw (unanodized) Al from corroding and pitting?
3) Would having it refinished in Cera-Hide (from CCR), Black T, Mac's, etc. as a preemptive strike help, or should I just carry it and worry about refinishing when the clearcoat peels?

Currently, I clean the gun after each range session with CLP, and wipe the gun down each night after carrying it with a silicone-impregnated cloth to remove any sweat, fingerprints, etc. picked up during the day. Seemingly this regimine would help, no?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated, friends. Thanks in advance!

[LSP972]

The answer to your question seems to be... "depends."

As in, it depends on WHEN the clear coat was applied (what production batch, IOW).

I had a first issue 642 that was carried daily from 1992 to 2002, when I sold it. The guy who bought it carries it daily, and last I saw (about six months ago) the finish was still in great shape. This is the same results with numerous friends who have the natural-color aluminum-frame AirWeights, as well as my 342.

However... I have read far too many complaints about this particular issue for it to be just a few knuckleheads who don't know how to take care of a firearm. Best I can tell, S&W had a couple of "bad runs" back in the late 90s/early 80s; anything reasonably current should be okay.

No need for a "pre-emptive strike"; S&W will make it right if yours happens to peel, etc. I am not discouraging you from using an aftermarket finish; such makes excellent sense on a non-stainless revolver. I have a flat-latch 37 that has been Black T'ed, and it is the LAST gun I'll ever get rid of willingly.

But for an aluminum frame and stainless cylinder/yoke/barrel, roll the dice and see what happens. Odds are, you'll be fine.

.

[KYMike]

...
However... I have read far too many complaints about this particular issue for it to be just a few knuckleheads who don't know how to take care of a firearm. Best I can tell, S&W had a couple of "bad runs" back in the late 90s/early 80s; anything reasonably current should be okay.

No need for a "pre-emptive strike"; S&W will make it right if yours happens to peel, etc. I am not discouraging you from using an aftermarket finish; such makes excellent sense on a non-stainless revolver. I have a flat-latch 37 that has been Black T'ed, and it is the LAST gun I'll ever get rid of willingly.

But for an aluminum frame and stainless cylinder/yoke/barrel, roll the dice and see what happens. Odds are, you'll be fine.

.

The revolver in question specifically was factory-fired last month. Hopefully, I'll be ok, especially if the "bad" runs were long ago.

I may eventually get an aftermarket finish, but I guess there's no reason to rush into it. :) Any chance you might be willing to post a pic of your Black-T wheelgun, please? :whistling: Now I'm curious how it looks. (Oooh...then the gun would match all the way around, too....)

Thank you for the reply!!

[LSP972]

Okay. I'll have to dig it out; may take a day or so for me to get around to it.

.

[LSP972]

KYMike,

The M37 is sitting on my bench. I'll try to get a few pix posted for you later today.

.

[03Shadowbob]

I use Hoppes #9 to clean my 642 and finish it off with a swipe of Breakfree LP (not CLP). This is a newer gun to me so I am wondering if Hoppes is OK for the 642 or if I should change up.
Any help is appreciated.

[janice6]

My wife's 642 started flaking off clearcoat as soon as she started carrying it. It comes off in flakes everytime it is cleaned. I think this finish is crap. That said, She and I love the 642 as a carry gun. I just would not expect the finish to last very long.

By the way, I also have S & W 22s that the finish takes fingerprints with every cleaner I have tried. I don't think I would put any stock in their finish.

[LSP972]

Any "gun solvent" won't harm a finish; unless it is left on for extended periods. Then, all bets are off. Still, thanks to the enviro-nazi movement, GOOD gun solvent cannot be had any more...

The clear coat on those aluminum frame guns is either good, or it isn't. If it peels, flakes, whatever, S&W will fix it.

[LSP972]

Here ya go, KYMike:

[Daryl in Az]

Don't know if this helps, but...

I have a Smith & Wesson 637-2 that I've carried every day since I got it about 5 years ago. It's holster worn in spots to the point that the brushed aluminum has turned to a bright polished look.

Nothing is peeling, flaking, or otherwise appears wrong with it other than it appears heavily used; which it is. I really get a kick of of folks on some boards who post pictures of what they call a "PPP", or Perfect Packin' Pistol, that doesn't have a mark or wear spot on it.

A carry gun should get used, and if it does, it's going to show some wear. If this little Smith I carry couldn't handle that, I'd have sold it long ago. It's really done quite well.

Daryl