"Wet forming" a holster for PM9

[alnitak]

I got a Bianchi #105 holster, size 14. This supposedly fits Bersas, Kahr and a couple of others so it's not specific to the PM9. While the PM9 "fits", it does require some effort to jam it into the leather, and then unholstering the gun becomes difficult. I've heard of "wet forming" holsters (with a couple layers of Saran wap around the pistol). Anyone ever try this? Any other ideas for getting the holster broken in and conforming to the shape of the PM9 -- oiling the inside, silicone spray, etc?

[Denied]

If I have a holster thats snug I use silicone spray inside the holster, then work the pistol in and out until it feels right. I then leave the pistol in the holster overnight. The next day if its still tight I do it again. I don't wrap the pistol in anything since the silicone won't hurt it. Go easy as you can get one too loose.

[Indy_Guy_77]

This is just my opinion, but I would rather have a too-tight fit as opposed to too loose...

If the holster came in a thick plastic bag (mine did, from High Noon Holsters), they advise taking the pistol, placing it in the bag, and then running the pistol/bag in and out of the holster a few dozen times.

This certainly helped with the holster that I purchased...also an unmolded leather holster. Since then, having the pistol inserted and the whole rig on my body (IWB), the combination of pressure from my belt and body heat have effectively molded this holster to the pistol.

I personally wouldn't want to spray any kind of lubricant into my holster! (especially something that would penetrate and may take months to come out)

-J-

[kubmiester]

I have "wet formed" a couple of my holsters. Although many holsters are made for a specific gun, they sometimes fit a little more tight than I would like. To the point of yanking my pants up trying to get it out. I don't know if this is the right way or not, but it works: Wet the holster down for a minute or two. Wrap the gun in a couple of plastic sandwitch bags. Don't want ANY moisture on the gun (unloaded of course). Push the gun into the holster and kind of kneed the holster leather around the gun to get a good fit. Leave the gun (wraped in plastic) in the holster over night. The next day take the gun out and let the holster dry for another day or two.

Once its dried, the holster should fit the gun much better without having to jam it in there. Just make sure its completly dried before leaving the gun in it without the plastic bag. Some leather oil might be a good idea after that.

I haven't had a problem with a gun rusting doing it this way, and the holster fits much better.

Has anyone had problems doing it with water?

[user]

I use Lexol, a silicone-based leather conditioning product, for that purpose.

[JohnJak]

This is just my opinion, but I would rather have a too-tight fit as opposed to too loose...

If the holster came in a thick plastic bag (mine did, from High Noon Holsters), they advise taking the pistol, placing it in the bag, and then running the pistol/bag in and out of the holster a few dozen times.

This certainly helped with the holster that I purchased...also an unmolded leather holster. Since then, having the pistol inserted and the whole rig on my body (IWB), the combination of pressure from my belt and body heat have effectively molded this holster to the pistol.

I personally wouldn't want to spray any kind of lubricant into my holster! (especially something that would penetrate and may take months to come out)

-J-

+1000000000

It will loosen up over time.

[alnitak]

Wet the holster down for a minute or two.


Kub -- Do you just wet the inside, or the whole holster? Do you immerse it, run water through the inside, or spray? Any problems with the dye running or fading?


I use Lexol, a silicone-based leather conditioning product, for that purpose.

User -- I have Lexol for my car leather. Is that what you use? Any concerns about other substances in the conditioner that may not be good for the pistol?

Thanks all!

[kubmiester]

alnitak:

I've just normally run it under the faucet with cool water. It can take a few minutes for the water to penitrate the leather. You'll be able to tell when the holster isn't as stiff. Do be carfull if there are any metal parts on the holster (snaps, clip, etc.). After weting it, I wipe off the excess water with a paper towel.

I haven't had a problem with the dye running or fading. The holster would most likely have been sealed in some way. Fading will happen anyways with use.

[flybywire]

You shouldn't put any of these liquids on a leather holster.

[flybywire]

from High Noon Holsters website

DO's
-The occasional application of paste shoe polish to touch up surface wear is all that is needed.
-Do make sure the holster/magazine carrier provides secure gun/magazine retention.
-If holster gets wet, dry the leather naturally. A fan blowing room temperature air will do the job or just leave it alone it will dry by itself.

Don't
-Never use anything like saddle soap or mink oil. It will make your holster too soft. We oil them as part of the manufacturing process and that should be enough for the life of the holster.
-Do not submerge or saturate your leather product in water or any other liquid.
-Do not dry your leather product with forced heat from a hair dryer, oven, radiator, direct sun light, etc.
-Do not use holster if tension unit(s) are missing.

[kubmiester]

Flybywire:

Good info. I can't argue with leather experts.

[flybywire]

You can't argue with the experts. Well I guess you can...

[user]

Kub -- Do you just wet the inside, or the whole holster? Do you immerse it, run water through the inside, or spray? Any problems with the dye running or fading?

User -- I have Lexol for my car leather. Is that what you use? Any concerns about other substances in the conditioner that may not be good for the pistol?

Thanks all!

Yes, same product - and it's like a Baptist baptism: total immersion; I soak the holster really well in the stuff; it makes the leather expand in all directions, so it can be a bit of work to jam the gun in while the leather's swollen. But after it dries out the thing fits nearly perfectly (which takes longer than it would with water, by the way).

It never occurred to me that there might be something in there that's not good for pistols, but I can't imagine that product containing any such stuff. It's widely used by people who keep horses for saddlry and tack, and by people who make and refinish furniture, and it's been around for about forty years. I think I'd have heard something if there were anything in it that was bad for metals or metal finishes.

The idea that you shouldn't put liquids on a holster is generally right, but that's because the liquids will make the holster lose the original shape and "tone". But in this case, that's precisely what's wanted. Generally, holsters should be treated like fine leather shoes - paste-type products should be used for polishing and that, but you don't want to stand in the muddy water with them.

[alnitak]

Thanks User. A couple more questions if you don't mind.

How long do you leave the gun in the holster? How long until it dries completely (days?)? Does the Lexol soften the holster up at all (such that it loses shape over time)?

[Bulldog]

Keep in mind that most holsters will be sealed with acrylic or similar, so it may not be as easy as just running some water over it. However, if you're just doing some remolding and not any dying, there shouldn't be anything to worry about. (If you're redying, there's a finish remover available from Tandy Leather - or you can use acetone or something).

Some recommendations to start:
- Don't use any oils or anything (including neatsfoot oil, IMO).
- Don't try molding soaking-wet leather
- Don't wrap your gun in baggies/saran wrap/whatever
- Don't get too carried away with the molding

I've made a few holsters for my guns, and what I do after stitching everything up is run the leather under running hot water until everything is wet and has darkened (keep in mind, I'm doing this on undyed and unfinished leather, so I can easily see it darken). This takes all of a minute, including warm-up time for the water.

Next, I let the leather dry out for a couple of hours. Ideally, the holster will be cool to the touch and barely damp come molding time (soaking wet leather doesn't really hold its shape very well).

If you truly want a good fit, don't wrap the gun in anything. You want the holster molded to your gun, not to your gun with baggies/saran wrap on it.

Place the gun in the holster, and start molding by hand the best you can. Just knead the leather to the gun. Careful, you can go too far. Mold too much in the ejection port area, you might end up with a holster that doesn't want to let your gun go.

If you want to go further on the molding (detail molding/boning), careful what you use. You want a tool that is smooth without rough/sharp edges that can bugger up the leather. I use the back end of a sharpie marker for most of my detail molding. High tech, I know... Whatever you use, try to draw the tool along the leather in a smooth motion keeping steady pressure. Try not to push or poke too much with the tool or you risk marring the leather or removing dye that you don't want to lose.

Once you're done molding, take the gun out. Don't leave it in. Reshape any areas that might have popped out upon removing the gun, and set the holster somewhere to dry overnight.

If you've done it right ("right" being a subjective term, here), the gun shouldn't even get wet in the process, or at least not wet enough to matter. It doesn't take that long to do the molding, so it's not like the gun will be in a wet holster for hours and hours. (If the gun does get wet, just wipe it down after you're done molding. If you're extra worried, clean and relube your gun.)

You should also end up with a holster that's not too tight, not too loose, and is perfectly molded to your gun.

[user]

Thanks User. A couple more questions if you don't mind.

How long do you leave the gun in the holster? How long until it dries completely (days?)? Does the Lexol soften the holster up at all (such that it loses shape over time)?


About three days; about a week, depending on temperature and humidity; slightly, but to me a bit more flexibility makes it easier to use, they're usually too stiff when new, but I've never had one lose its shape at all.

I do wrap the gun in one layer of plastic kitchen wrap before I do this.

[randyc74]

Hey Guys,

Bulldog has it right. Thats pretty much the way us holster makers mold our holsters. The naked pistol is only left in the holster long enough to mold/bone the holster. Once the pistol is removed, gently push the expanded leather areas back in. Lexol and Needsfoot oil are not used for concealed carry type holsters. You want a stiff molded holster for weapon retention.

Randy

[user]

I certainly respect the opinions of people who are in the business, however I can't help wondering whether some of that's tradition for the sake of tradition - I get good results with my method - and in particular, the use of a (carefully applied) single layer of saran, which is, after all, only about two to four thousandths of an inch thick. And I think Lexol is a high-quality product that's good for leather, which, being a water based silicone product, doesn't cause excessive suppleness.

I suggest that anyone who's risk averse ought to do it the way the holster makers say. Though, the worst that could happen is you'd have to buy a new holster, no matter what you do.