Cleaning Agent Query

[TripleGlocker]

I use to detail strip my G17, G22 and G23 every after range session and here's my routine.

All polymer part, Frame to be exact is washed with Dishwashing soap Only and rinse throroughly with water.

All metal parts, including the whole slide gets washed with Premium Gasoline and pat dry afterwards.

Upon assembly I just put a light oil on the disconnecter, barrel exterior, barrel hood under the slide, and some on the frame metal rails that meet the slide.

I would like to hear your opinions on my routine.

[myg23]

I use to detail strip my G17, G22 and G23 every after range session and here's my routine.

All polymer part, Frame to be exact is washed with Dishwashing soap Only and rinse throroughly with water.

All metal parts, including the whole slide gets washed with Premium Gasoline and pat dry afterwards.

Upon assembly I just put a light oil on the disconnecter, barrel exterior, barrel hood under the slide, and some on the frame metal rails that meet the slide.

I would like to hear your opinions on my routine.
Dude, are you serious about the gasoline ...? :wow:

[TripleGlocker]

Yes it dries up very fast and smells good. Why will it corrode my slide and other metal parts?:shocked:

Dude, are you serious about the gasoline ...? :wow:

[Lugi]

Drop the damn gas............just use CLP!

[Swattie]

I actually found something better than CLP. It is called Ballistol. The stuff is great and safe on polymer too. It also give the polymer a shine. You can find it on the net if you can't find it locally. I got to drive 30 minutes to pick the stuff up.

[myg23]

I use gun scrubber and Rem oil

[DanK]

I use 91% alcohol on the exterior of the gun to get rid of any left over gun oil or oil/sweat from my hands. Inside I am happy to use anything, haven't found anything that smells better than Hoppes though. I generally use the solvent/lubricant rather than the No. 9 solvent and seperate lubricant.

[BrianNH]

Way overkill. You were either misinformed, or you've got OCD. Your Glock does not need to be detail stripped every range session and the parts do not need to see any harsh chemicals.

Pick up a Glock Annual or an owners manual and read the section on maintenance.

[OD GASTON]

Drop the damn gas............just use CLP!

:rofl:

For real!!!!

[SCC]

:whistling:

[Arc Angel]

:shocked: About the silliest cleaning routine I've ever seen posted. Not very smart, at all, to expose your skin and lungs to gasoline; but, from the tone of the OP's initial post, it may already be too late. :freak:

[jmsfmtex]

I just watch a very informative video by Robert Dunlap on cleaning the Glock. He used some sort of machine parts cleaner. It was green. Does anyone know what product he was using? He just soaked the parts in the cleaner, tooth brushed residue and washed off in clean plain water. Then a little oil on necessary parts.

[kelsitone]

So, is this a joke? :dunno:

CLP does the job for me. If I get mud all over my gun, it happens, a brush and some water takes care of it.

And a detail strip after every use. Unless you're going through a few cases of ammo every range trip, that's a bit extreme.

[SCC]

I just watch a very informative video by Robert Dunlap on cleaning the Glock. He used some sort of machine parts cleaner. It was green. Does anyone know what product he was using? He just soaked the parts in the cleaner, tooth brushed residue and washed off in clean plain water. Then a little oil on necessary parts.:whistling: this is what he used and i use it on all my glocks it is good stuff

[3rdRRU_PhuBai]

"...washed with Premium Gasoline...."

If you smoke while cleaning your Glock try to keep ashes from falling into the gasoline and don't mistake the gasoline pan for an ashtray. Can't be too careful.

[jmsfmtex]

Yes, that is what I was looking for. I will go to my nearest store, that I think would carry it, and buy it.

[EdMan63]

I can't believe anyone would use gasoline on a gun.:shocked: Are you kidding? That's a precious commodity! Much cheaper and safer alternatives.

[sphillips45]

Simple Green Works Great..

[Leigh]

No offense, but there is no need to attempt to re-invent the wheel.
Just follow the cleaning procedurs outlined in your owner's manual and you will be fine.

[sigcalcatrant]

After every shooting session I hose out my G17 reciever with Break Free aerosol, let soak, repeat, then blow it out with an air hose. After several thousand rounds I detail stripped it. I shouldn't have bothered, it was spottless, even in the nooks and crannies. The slide, on the other hand, gets taken apart and cleaned every 4th or 5th time.

[TripleGlocker]

Just the reaction I expected.

But thanks Gentlemen, I just found that using premium gasoline to be cleaner and all this is done while I'm wearing surgical gloves and a face mask.

I might move to simple green then.

[magiaaron]

Wow. I didn't reply to this thread earlier, but I REALLY thought it was a joke. Let me try to offer my advice on this, too.

First off, I see nothing wrong with detail stripping after every range session. The GLOCK doesn't need it, but neither do most guns. I do, however, because I just love to know there isn't a speck of anything left inside the gun. So, on this point, I congratulate you for being as OCD as myself. ;) Strangely though, guns are the only thing I am like this about.

OK. The gasoline, though? I have questions about this. Why did you start using it? Did someone recommend it, or were you just like, "You know what? I've got some extra gas. Why not?" And why premium? Does the higher octane content clean better than regular 87? Honest question. I just would like to know more about the logic behind this. I'm not closed minded. If there's a really good argument for something, then I'm all for it.

That said, it seems somewhat silly to me as explained. CLP works great (as many gun products do). I would guess that if you use CLP, you'll find that there is extra buildup that doesn't come off with the gasoline.

Also, the mask you're wearing... I highly doubt it is rated to block out different gases. It's the gasoline fumes that are dangerous, and unless you have a VERY expensive gas mask, you're not really safe. It's not quite the same as a pollen mask or one used in home construction dry walling.

On the oiling part of the routine, I would recommend putting oil on any part that will have any friction, the entire inside/outside of the barrel, and the outside of the slide. You're right to have just a little. You want it to be there, but not so much that it can move of it's own weight. About enough to leave a fingerprint. And, by putting some on the outside of the slide, you are helping to preserve the finish of the gun. This is just SOP for me when cleaning my guns, and probably applies less to anything covered in tennifer, but I do it anyway. Definitely need it on Sigs and other guns with less durable finishes.

Finally, I gotta say, I'm curious about Simple Green myself now that it's been mentioned. I've seen it around, but never would have thought about using it on a gun. I might try it.

-magiaaron

[TripleGlocker]

@ magiaaron

I use premium because I tried kerosene and it leave a slick feel which I don't like, with premium gasoline it's the unleaded one it does not leave any residue but leaves the slide and all other metal parts feeling really dry and clean.

I use this all the time as well before with my all-steel FA the FEG clone of the Walther PPK, and saw a lot of people use it on our range with their 1911's so I pressumed I'd use it on the metal parts of the Glock only and never on the polymer.

I know the face mask isn't that protective and I only clean my Glock every range session which is once a week, OCD or not (which I am for all things) I guess I am more OCD when it comes to my FA because I stake my life on it. Second OCD level for me are my knives.

I usually coat a light hoppes gun oil on all needed parts, but never on the outside of the slide as it would make it a bit slippery for me, I just keep it ragged down semi-wet with clean tap water only.

On simple green, I avoided it before because I had some areas which carbon build up was not removed well or maybe my brushing was not enough either of the 2 I can't remember but would certainly go back to it.

One more area of this subject is that I'm waiting to hear from is on my method of cleaning the polymer frame, IS IT OK? Water and dishwashing soap then fully air dried before I assemble everything back?

[magiaaron]

Thanks for the response.

As for the frame, I guess so? I'm not really sure. If it's good and dry before assembly. I'd worry less about the polymer frame being damaged by water and soap.

-magiaaron

[SVTNate]

I clean my Glocks the same way I clean everything else.

Scrub with warm water and Simple Green, rinse, dry with air compressor, done. I use Q-Tips and patches with Simple Green to get it 100%. I use proper bore clean in the barrel.

Now, with a Glock, I strip the slide every time I clean. I don't ever strip the frame. You can get it 100% dry without ever doing it, although you can likely get the slide dry without stripping it either since the air compressor really blasts in there well.

[glide]

Breakfree CLP basically for all my cleaning, lubing, and protection of my firearms. I also use Slip 2000 for degreasing. I also like Breakfree Bore Foaming Cleaner but shipping it to Hawaii is a pain. I also am looking at M-Pro 7 and Ballistol Lube to try out.