lighter trigger for j frame

[john123456]

so is there anyway to make the trigger on my j frames a little lighter and still hit the primer hard enough to fire every time one is a 642 the other is a mp 340 ty for any info

[machinisttx]

Replace the trigger rebound spring with a lighter version from Wolff.

[bluelineman]

From their site - W.C. Wolff company offers reduced power rebound springs rated from 12 to 16 pounds. For reference, the factory rebound spring is 18 pounds. If you got a 12# rebound spring, what would the likely trigger pull weight be?

[COWBOYSHOOTER]

If I may be so bold...BEFORE you replace the springs, fire at least 100 rounds, preferably 200 though the gun. THEN decide if ya need the springs. Replacin the spring aint hard. But it would certainly help if ya had the right tools and some know how handy. Jes sayin.

<---doesnt own a Smith & Wesson revolver with stock springs
<---ALWAYS shoots them before replacing springs
:wavey:

[machinisttx]

From their site - W.C. Wolff company offers reduced power rebound springs rated from 12 to 16 pounds. For reference, the factory rebound spring is 18 pounds. If you got a 12# rebound spring, what would the likely trigger pull weight be?


More than likely, the result is going to be a trigger that doesn't properly reset. One of my 4" M66's has a 12 pound rebound spring in it, and does function reliably. DA trigger pull is roughly 9 pounds.

Personally, I wouldn't go any lighter than 14 pounds on a carry gun(and that's what I put in my 2.5" 66. DA trigger on it is also around 9 pounds). If you put in a spring that is too light, you'll have to take everything back apart and replace it with a heavier version. The heavier springs will also return the trigger a little faster than lighter ones.

[john123456]

::both of my j frames are carried alot and also shot alot . i dont see why everybody thinks there uncomfortable to shoot :dunno: i shoot the mp 340 with full power .357 loads all the time a few hundred a range visit so they have both been shot . but the wife uses the 642 now that i upgraded to the 340 and her poor little finger gets tired and hurts a little i guess aww :crying: so i just wanted to know if i could make it a little lighter

[machinisttx]

::both of my j frames are carried alot and also shot alot . i dont see why everybody thinks there uncomfortable to shoot :dunno: i shoot the mp 340 with full power .357 loads all the time a few hundred a range visit so they have both been shot . but the wife uses the 642 now that i upgraded to the 340 and her poor little finger gets tired and hurts a little i guess aww :crying: so i just wanted to know if i could make it a little lighter

Changing the rebound spring is cheap and easy. I do recommend buying the rebound spring tool from Brownells or another source though. The link below explains how to do it. I definitely would NOT change the mainspring(not the same as the trigger rebound spring) on a J frame though. Usually, you'll end up with light primer strikes/failures to fire with anything other than Federal ammunition or Federal primers in reloads. The rebound spring won't do anything other than lighten the trigger.

changing rebound springs in a S&W (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=33&t=57186)

[bluelineman]

changing rebound springs in a S&W (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=33&t=57186)

Great write up! Thanks! BTW, are you near Dallas? :whistling:

[tous]

I tend to discourage aftermarket trigger parts in defensive pistols.

Consider, if you're faced with a situation where you need to defend yourself, with adrenaline pumping, do you imagine that you won't be able to press the stock trigger?

Why do you think Smith and Wesson uses the parts that they do? I suggest that they want the most operator comfort with maximum reliability.

Learn to effectively fire your pistol as it is. :wavey:

NB: Reminds me. I was at the Porshce factory many years ago 'advising ' the engineers about all the mistakes they made on my 911. :shocked: They listened patienty, then one said, "If we would have wanted it there, we would have put it there."

That larned me, it did.

:supergrin:

[machinisttx]

Great write up! Thanks! BTW, are you near Dallas? :whistling:

I'm a little ways north of Dallas, 70 miles or so.

[machinisttx]

I tend to discourage aftermarket trigger parts in defensive pistols.

Consider, if you're faced with a situation where you need to defend yourself, with adrenaline pumping, do you imagine that you won't be able to press the stock trigger?

Why do you think Smith and Wesson uses the parts that they do? I suggest that they want the most operator comfort with maximum reliability.

Learn to effectively fire your pistol as it is. :wavey:

NB: Reminds me. I was at the Porshce factory many years ago 'advising ' the engineers about all the mistakes they made on my 911. :shocked: They listened patienty, then one said, "If we would have wanted it there, we would have put it there."

That larned me, it did.

:supergrin:

The general idea is making the gun more pleasant to shoot, which means it will get more range time, which means the user should be more proficient in it's use.

As far as what the factories use---lawyers and liability are most of the reason they use what they do. It used to be that guns came with an excellent trigger from the factory(and were user adjustable on rifles). Now, they come with heavy, gritty triggers that need attention before using the gun. Rifles that used to come with 4 pound user adjustable triggers now have 6-8 pound non adjustable triggers. They don't make 'em like they used too.

[tous]

The general idea is making the gun more pleasant to shoot, which means it will get more range time, which means the user should be more proficient in it's use.

As far as what the factories use---lawyers and liability are most of the reason they use what they do. It used to be that guns came with an excellent trigger from the factory(and were user adjustable on rifles). Now, they come with heavy, gritty triggers that need attention before using the gun. Rifles that used to come with 4 pound user adjustable triggers now have 6-8 pound non adjustable triggers. They don't make 'em like they used too.


Good points, and I agree for the most part, mi amigo.

I suggest that 'pleasant to shoot on the range' is not the best reason to be completely familiar and expert with your sidearm. :wavey:

I suggest, shoot it the way the factory made it until you can knock a gnat off of a fence post at 10 yards and then start thinking about fiddling with it.


I'm also a little uneasy with folk opening up their Smith and Wesson revolvers and swapping springs when they've never done it before.

Indeed, they don't make them like they used to. Try to find a blued steel firearm with walnut furniture these days.

[john123456]

i wasnt looking for advice if i should lightin the trigger only how to do it

[machinisttx]

Good points, and I agree for the most part, mi amigo.

I suggest that 'pleasant to shoot on the range' is not the best reason to be completely familiar and expert with your sidearm. :wavey:

I suggest, shoot it the way the factory made it until you can knock a gnat off of a fence post at 10 yards and then start thinking about fiddling with it.


I'm also a little uneasy with folk opening up their Smith and Wesson revolvers and swapping springs when they've never done it before.

Indeed, they don't make them like they used to. Try to find a blued steel firearm with walnut furniture these days.

Swapping rebound springs on a S&W is not complicated. The mainspring is easier to swap if it's anything other than a J frame---but generally leads to light primer strikes and failures to fire.

That writeup I posted a link to was the second S&W I opened up. How is one to get experience if they don't do it? :dunno: I just finished doing the same thing to the M17-2 I bought on Independence Day(I also polished the rebound slide and the area of the frame the rebound slide sits on while I was in there)..... I'll be doing the J frame my mom just bought, as well as disabling that stupid internal lock and polishing what needs to be polished while I'm in there.

Seriously, it's not rocket science, and any reasonably intelligent individual should be capable of it.

[R*E]

changing rebound springs in a S&W (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=33&t=57186)

Thanks for posting the link :wavey: