Anyone ever used a Wolff action kit? (686)

[Jason D]

This seems like as good a place as any to ask. I ordered a Wolff Pro Spring kit from Brownells, and wondered if anyone else has done the same. This is the kit right here. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=26250&st=080-665-202ab&s=2949

Any idea what I can expect from it trigger pull wise? The action is pretty good right now for stock. She had 5000+ rounds through it, but the pull is just a little heavy.

I have a 686 that I plan to shoot at Camp Perry next year, and am getting it ready. I don't like the idea of some yahoo chopping on my gun, so I think the spring kit is the way to go. S&W wants way to much for an action job when you include shipping, so that wasn't an option for me.

First on my agenda is the spring kit, second a Pat front sight, and third a nice set of Ahrends grips.

[machinisttx]

With stock mainsprings and a 12 to 14 pound rebound spring, my K frame S&W's usually end up around 9-10 pounds DA and 2-3 pounds SA. I would imagine you'll be somewhere in that neighborhood with an L frame.

Changing springs isn't an action job, it will make the pull weight lighter, but that's it.

[alank2]

Hi,

Wolff springs are quality.

On my J-Frame, I changed out the rebound spring to lighten things a bit, but I didn't touch the mainspring because I didn't want to weaken its primer detonation capability.

On my GP100, I changed out the rebound spring as well, but I actually liked the hammer spring that Ruger sent, it felt better for some reason.

My advice on the S&W is that you get the rebound spring tool before trying to change it without the tool.

Good luck,

Alan

[Jason D]

Thanks for the replies guys.



I'm not really going for an action job, though I thought about it. The new mainspring is supposed to be standard weight, and guaranteed for reliable ignition with magnum primers. I plan to have the local gunsmith put the springs in. He's pretty good. I have had him do work for me before on S&W revolvers.

What I want is a lighter double action trigger pull. The action is well broken in, its just on the heavy side.

[machinisttx]

Changing those springs is a 30 minute job max.........

[Jason D]

Changing those springs is a 30 minute job max.........

I had the side plate off today, and saw how the parts fit in. I may just do it myself.

[machinisttx]

Link you might want to see (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=33&t=57186)

[Jason D]

Thanks Machinist.

I will keep that link for future reference.

I got my kit in the mail today, but have decided to let my gunsmith go the job. He'll do it for cheap, and I can watch.

[Jason D]

I had the gunsmith do it. The single action trigger pull is 3# even. Not sure on the double action, but would estimate it at 8#.

Since my gun has been shot a lot, it has a fairly smooth action. Even Don the gunsmith commented on it. With the Wolff Power rib main spring in it, it now has a distinctive little tink sound right before the hammer falls.

I an not sure it will go away with use, but I am pleased with the lighter double action trigger pull.

I got the kit from Brownells for 16.41 shipped (dealer discount), and 10.00 installed. It was well worth it.



eta.

It was three pounds, not four

[machinisttx]

I think I'd pay $10 to have someone else fight that rebound spring. :supergrin:

Two of my K frames have 9 pound DA, with one having a 2.5 pound SA...the other is DAO. Haven't put a scale on my others.

[Jason D]

I had to be careful to still keep the gun NRA legal.


I think the rule book states 2.5# for single action.

My trigger guage only goes up to 4.5 pounds, and reads the 686 at 48 .oz SA, so I'm good. I can only estimate the DA pull. I would have to say 8# on that.

All in all, I'm happy.

I may just do this with both my 625's also.

[SW342]

Hummmmmm, I think I will try a trigger job on a couple of my J-Frames.

[machinisttx]

Hummmmmm, I think I will try a trigger job on a couple of my J-Frames.

Spring changes are not a trigger job. Do NOT replace the mainspring on a J frame with a lighter one.

[alank2]

Hi,

Spring changes are not a trigger job. Do NOT replace the mainspring on a J frame with a lighter one.

+1, don't touch the mainspring, leave it strong for good solid primer detonation.

You can change the rebound spring though and it makes a difference...

Good luck,

Alan

[Jason D]

Well after two months, and 1000 rounds I am still happy.

I ordered the Kuhnhausen shop manual from Midway. I also ordered the Brownells tool for removing the rebound spring, as well as another spring kit. The new spring kit will go in my Detroit Police model 64. I have a couple 14# springs that I will be putting in the 625s. I will be doing the work myself this time.

In the December issue of Shooting Times, there is an article by Charles Petty about installing the spring kit. There isn't much info, and the pictures are not very detailed. I think there is just enough information there to get someone in trouble.

Anyone attempting to do this, probably should have a Kuhnhausen manual.

You can put a rebound spring in a J-frame, without replacing the mainspring. Since I get a dealer discount from Brownells, I just went ahead and bought the kit with a new power rib mainspring.

[Stainz]

After doing many trigger spring changes, I have learned:

For competition, or to just insure the fastest follow-up, a stiff rebound spring is a necessary evil. Exercise your trigger finger to build up strength and to accomodate the stiff trigger.

If S&W advertises a 'tuned action' in your recent S&W treasure (625JM, 627 Pro), they mean a ground strain screw! Said sharp edged screw will find it's way into the back of the hollow 'power rib' of a Wolff leaf spring, lessening the pre-load on same. Get a new screw. An 8-32 x .5" SS socket head set screw, Home Depot bagged 2/$.56, with blue Loctite, can be adjusted to a 'proper' pre-load. Continue those finger exercises.

If your gunsmith says you don't need new springs, as he can clip coils and re-form leafs, quietly leave - and don't trust him with your slingshot. Springs are cheap - and having the OEMs 'stock' is a 'good thing'.

Take care while changing rebound springs in the living room or den while watching the tube. When let fly, they seem to be guided to your wife's favorite blown glass doo-dad... blame it on the cat. Plus, they make a distinctive rattle when the vacuum finds them in the carpet.

Generally 1,000+ dry-fires 'ease' the lockwork edges, yielding the equivalent of a simple trigger job. At 5,000+, you are there! The springs should make it more better - and even gooder. Enjoy your revolver.

Jerry Miculek has a STRONG trigger finger.

Stainz

[Jason D]

After doing many trigger spring changes, I have learned:

For competition, or to just insure the fastest follow-up, a stiff rebound spring is a necessary evil. Exercise your trigger finger to build up strength and to accomodate the stiff trigger.

If S&W advertises a 'tuned action' in your recent S&W treasure (625JM, 627 Pro), they mean a ground strain screw! Said sharp edged screw will find it's way into the back of the hollow 'power rib' of a Wolff leaf spring, lessening the pre-load on same. Get a new screw. An 8-32 x .5" SS socket head set screw, Home Depot bagged 2/$.56, with blue Loctite, can be adjusted to a 'proper' pre-load. Continue those finger exercises.

If your gunsmith says you don't need new springs, as he can clip coils and re-form leafs, quietly leave - and don't trust him with your slingshot. Springs are cheap - and having the OEMs 'stock' is a 'good thing'.

Take care while changing rebound springs in the living room or den while watching the tube. When let fly, they seem to be guided to your wife's favorite blown glass doo-dad... blame it on the cat. Plus, they make a distinctive rattle when the vacuum finds them in the carpet.

Generally 1,000+ dry-fires 'ease' the lockwork edges, yielding the equivalent of a simple trigger job. At 5,000+, you are there! The springs should make it more better - and even gooder. Enjoy your revolver.

Jerry Miculek has a STRONG trigger finger.

Stainz


I do use a grip exerciser regularly, I just needed something a little lighter for shooting double action in rapid fire strings. The spring put in the 686 is the 14# spring, which I believe is 2# lighter than factory. I can still get off a pretty rapid follow up shot.

My guns are stock. The 625's were built long before S&W came out with the JM gun, so I am pretty sure that have a regular strain screw in them. They are only getting the rebound spring. The 64 is getting the new spring pac. It was made in 1989, and it still has an action that is stiff as hell. It is my intention to just lighten the pull a little. None of them really need a new mainspring.

I am not a big fan of changing guns up, so everything I would do to one could be undone fairly easily. The strain screws are standard length, and have not been ground down. I will keep an eye on the strain screw, in relation to the power rip though.

Don is pretty good about not cutting corners when it comes to gunsmithing. He does what you ask him to do. He never even said anything about clipping springs down. I have just decided to do it myself as a cost saving measure.

I watched the smith do it the first time, so I know what to expect. I think I will be ok on that front. I did one time launch a .45 recoil plug into the ceiling. With 18# of force behind it, it left a nice dent.

I didn't think I could go wrong with the edition of a spring pac. I just found I liked it so much, I wanted to do it to several others. It is a great and easy way to lighten a trigger pull. People should know though, that is exactly what it does. It doesn't smooth anything, just make it lighter. It is not a replacement for a trigger job. If you shoot a gun enough, you do smooth the action just from use.

Pic of said 686-5.

http://i35.tinypic.com/33w40gk.jpg

[Jason D]

While watching and doing are two different things. I can't believe just how easy it is to do that little bit of work.

I did it this morning, and had it all ready to shoot in 10 minutes.