any downside to SS guide rod?

[WickedGlock]

Let me start by saying I am a big advocate of factory parts. I understand that changing the factory guide rod to stainless one will more than likely not "help" anything at all. The factory one has proven to be more than sufficient.
That said, On one of my G19's (its very old, atleast 10k rounds through it on factory guide rod) needs a new rod. From so many years of use it is chipping a bit at the base, but still functioning flawlessly. So I need to order a new one, and I am considering trying a stainless steel one. I just want to check in to see if there is any downside or reason NOT to get a stainless one. I am not concerned with price at all as I just want the best quality part in my gun. I always stay stock except for sights but I think I may try this one..Please chime in with opinions. Thank you all in advance for responses.

[Apocalypse_Now]

I'm interested in learned comments as well, since my next move after collecting the Glocks and mags I want will be full spare parts sets for all of them (and 2 x springs sets + many recoil springs)

EDIT: I'm looking at Wolff springs as replacements so I can leave my original setup in my parts kits. This requires the Wolff SS guide rod. Negatives? Kudos? And what LB recoil spring should I get for full power/high velocity defensive loads in the .40 S & W? Wolff lists from 12 lb all the way up..

[WickedGlock]

Help us out guys...any Armorer's online with an opinion?

[What? Me worry?]

If Gaston had wanted you to put a SS rod in there, he would have done it for you.

Just my opinion...I'm as full of sh1t as anybody. :upeyes:

[Patchman]

My professional opinion is that 10K for a Glock is not "very old" and if your current rod is chipped you should have already replaced it. Do not replace a part AFTER it has undergone catastrophic damage.

If you are not concerned with price and only want the best quality I would gladly sell you a g-e-n-u-i-n-e OEM guide rod for $80. Won't even collect tax or charge S&H. :cool:

But if you want to see what temptations are out there before settling down, then go ahead. I was also young once. A SS guide rod is the least of the deadly sins for a non-CCW gun.

[chilic82]

I would stay stock. Their cheap,and hold up as well as anything else. I have also heard of others installing SS rod and having malfunctions. But, If you just have to have one you will more than likely be ok.

[Volunteers10]

I asked a certified Glock armorer this week, and he said that a plastic guide rod risks damage to the guide rod, but a SS guide rod risks damage to the frame... pick your poison, i guess.

[Snapper2]

I have a new G20. After market parts so far are a sl stormlake barrel, wolf guiderod and 22lb spring. A ss guiderod with 20lb ismi spring. So far I'm keeping it all factory for reliability. But if I ever want to shoot HOT loads at the range or when hunting I might compromise. I know for a fact that factory and wolff spring and guiderods or reliable, but have no experience with ismi yet.

[byuboy270]

It's nice to see people not flaming about "search, search, search...." and actually chiming in.

[javelinadave]

If you have a ceramic Glock it will set off the alarms at the airport.:rofl:

[mrnuke7571]

I've had one on my Glock 19c for a while with no ill effects.

I've also tested it in my Glock 38 and with the SS guiderod the recoil is snappier than the original plastic one, so I put that back in.

[Snapper2]

I've had one on my Glock 19c for a while with no ill effects.

I've also tested it in my Glock 38 and with the SS guiderod the recoil is snappier than the original plastic one, so I put that back in.

That might be because you put a stronger spring in with it. If you didnt use a factory strength spring.

[Snapper2]

Just put in a ismi spring with ss guide rod. Hand cycled a 15rd mag. Everything hand cycled all right. When I field stripped to put factory assembly back in the spring on the ss guide rod seems to scrape the frame while taking the slide off. Probably not that much to worry about but something that I'm not use to.

[Apocalypse_Now]

Can we please try to stay on target, folks? We're asking serious technical questions here, for those with real knowlege/experience to share :embarassed:

[Cross-X]

So what problem are you trying to fix?

[Apocalypse_Now]

So what problem are you trying to fix?

I'm trying to obtain full parts sets and spare recoil spring systems. I don't know yet what I'll buy, but Wolff offers non stock LB (power) springs and they require the Wolff SS guide rod. I handload and I want to determine what setups are best for the various loads I'll be using, from lower velocity lead target bullets to high velocity JHP loads

Can we please refrain from posting if "we" don't have a genuine contribution to offer, folks?

[dango]

I`ve got a stainless rod and I like it.Only my opinion but I just think stainless is better than plastic,plus I have an extra just in case.:cool:

[Coeus]

I put a captured SS guide rod from Lone Wolf in my G19. The aftermarket spring that came with the rod is not as strong as the OEM spring. After about 1000 rounds, it began to fail the "function" check to test spring strength and wouldn't fully return to battery while my original guide rod and spring has 5000 rounds through it and is still going strong.

I don't know how much of a problem that truly is, as I never had a problem with the Wolf during actual firing, but the thought of it firing out of battery gave me enough pause to put my OEM guide rod back in. This isn't actually the guide rod's fault, rather the spring that came with it. But seeing as how many of the guide rods on the market are captured and the Wolf Spring is supposed to be an ISM spring, I figured I would mention it as a potential problem.

The SS guide rod looked so much better than my beat up OEM piece that I didn't want to switch back but I figured form over function is way more important. It just proved to me that I suffer from OCD worrying about the aesthetics of a part that is never even really seen. :rofl:

[WickedGlock]

To be honest, I have always been a hardcore advocate of leaving things stock. The truth is, the factory one works great so why change it. Since mine is starting to show some wear I should just replace it with a factory one for 5 bucks.

But, I sincerely wonder if the reason for the stock ones being plastic is profitability. Most other well made firearms use steel rods, and most cost more as well.

So I figure If I have to repalce the part anyway, why not replace it with the best part possible?? I am getting so many mixed opinions on all the research I have done but there is very little fact included in these opinions. I'm simply trying to figure out which one is better.
example: My car handles corners and runs much better with the aftermarket rims and tires it has on it . They are truly better than factory. I am not mad at the manufacturer of the car for making a normal wheel that is cost effective. I am pleased that there are better options on the aftermarket that I can take advantage of if my pocket allows. But, the car does function normally with factory wheels, but better with the upgrade.

So... I wonder if that theory would apply here as well? Is steel better than plastic? Or the real question is...is steel better than plastic for a Glock guide rod? Who knows... Maybe someone one day will try a torture test with both. I have 2k rounds I am saving up..maybe I should try it. But I dont think we can get anything definitive from 1k rounds on each rod...and frankly if I buy any more ammo it may cause a divorce..lol Please let me make it VERY clear that I am NOT a fan of aftermarket parts...I am simply throwing this out there to here some opinions and experiences that may help with my original question, which is: Is there any downside to a SS guide rod?

[WickedGlock]

I put a captured SS guide rod from Lone Wolf in my G19. The aftermarket spring that came with the rod is not as strong as the OEM spring. After about 1000 rounds, it began to fail the "function" check to test spring strength and wouldn't fully return to battery while my original guide rod and spring has 5000 rounds through it and is still going strong.

I don't know how much of a problem that truly is, as I never had a problem with the Wolf during actual firing, but the thought of it firing out of battery gave me enough pause to put my OEM guide rod back in. This isn't actually the guide rod's fault, rather the spring that came with it. But seeing as how many of the guide rods on the market are captured and the Wolf Spring is supposed to be an ISM spring, I figured I would mention it as a potential problem.

The SS guide rod looked so much better than my beat up OEM piece that I didn't want to switch back but I figured form over function is way more important. It just proved to me that I suffer from OCD worrying about the aesthetics of a part that is never even really seen. :rofl:



Thanks a million!!!! These are the kind of responses that will really help. Personal experiences...Thanks again.

[Snapper2]

Can we please try to stay on target, folks? We're asking serious technical questions here, for those with real knowlege/experience to share :embarassed:

In my G27 I use a wolff guide rod with 20lb spring, firing DT's 165gr gold dots, with no problems.. In G30 , wolff 21lb spring on all loads. No problem. Wolff springs are round wound. Ismi are flat wound like factory springs.

[Patchman]

Dear WickedGlock:
It's pretty obvious that even before your post you wanted to try out a SS guide rod but was looking for other GTers to validate your decision. It's not like you are in a position to impress me or save my life by using a SS guide rod. SO JUST DO WHAT YOU REALLY WANT ALREADY.

[WickedGlock]

Dear WickedGlock:
It's pretty obvious that even before your post you wanted to try out a SS guide rod but was looking for other GTers to validate your decision. It's not like you are in a position to impress me or save my life by using a SS guide rod. SO JUST DO WHAT YOU REALLY WANT ALREADY.

Dear Patchman, not sure what your problem is my friend. But you should find some happiness in life, it makes the time go by a bit easier.

This forum was made so people could communicate in a public forum and learn from eachothers discussions. That is what we are trying to do. Help eachother.

So if all you want is to be a prick with your comments, this is not the correct forum for it. Go have a beer dude, relax.

[cmspeedy]

No problems with my Wolff 22lb spring and guide rod in my G20. I love it. As others have said the Wolff springs can rub on the frame a little so if you have OCD it may bother you. I switched because I shoot mostly DT ammo or hot handloads and was getting inconsistent velocities with the hot ammo. A stouter spring took care of the problem (really it is not a problem, but it bothered me). I leave all my other Glock's stock.

[sirgarreth]

I have used SS RODS on all my glocks among other upgrades. G19 and 2 G23's. One of the G23's has thousands of rounds through it and it is being used as a duty weapon in LE. The ones i used are SS RODS with captured flat wound spring. I have never had a problem with any of them. Never had any kind of malfunctions, but i come from building 1911's. I believe the slide is a slight (very slight) smoother feel. I have never seen anyone go wrong with a SS ROD. Go ahead and do it. If you dont like it, you can always install the OEM. They are very cheap and easy.

This is the one i use. IMO, it has worked flawless.

LWD-GRA1923LWD S/S Guide Rod Assembly # GRA-1923 $24.95
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=4851

Hope this helped.

[Apocalypse_Now]

In my G27 I use a wolff guide rod with 20lb spring, firing DT's 165gr gold dots, with no problems.. In G30 , wolff 21lb spring on all loads. No problem. Wolff springs are round wound. Ismi are flat wound like factory springs.

NOTE: Helpful post, above

My carry load for my G22 will either be the Barnes DPX 155 grain or the Speer Gold Dot 165 grain, so this info helps, thanks

[Apocalypse_Now]

I have used SS RODS on all my glocks among other upgrades. G19 and 2 G23's. One of the G23's has thousands of rounds through it and it is being used as a duty weapon in LE. The ones i used are SS RODS with captured flat wound spring. I have never had a problem with any of them. Never had any kind of malfunctions, but i come from building 1911's. I believe the slide is a slight (very slight) smoother feel. I have never seen anyone go wrong with a SS ROD. Go ahead and do it. If you dont like it, you can always install the OEM. They are very cheap and easy.

This is the one i use. IMO, it has worked flawless.

LWD-GRA1923LWD S/S Guide Rod Assembly # GRA-1923 $24.95
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=4851

Hope this helped.

It did, thank you

[WickedGlock]

Can we please try to stay on target, folks? We're asking serious technical questions here, for those with real knowlege/experience to share :embarassed:

Apocalypse, Thanks for your help in keeping this thread on target. I appreciate it.

[WickedGlock]

I have used SS RODS on all my glocks among other upgrades. G19 and 2 G23's. One of the G23's has thousands of rounds through it and it is being used as a duty weapon in LE. The ones i used are SS RODS with captured flat wound spring. I have never had a problem with any of them. Never had any kind of malfunctions, but i come from building 1911's. I believe the slide is a slight (very slight) smoother feel. I have never seen anyone go wrong with a SS ROD. Go ahead and do it. If you dont like it, you can always install the OEM. They are very cheap and easy.

This is the one i use. IMO, it has worked flawless.

LWD-GRA1923LWD S/S Guide Rod Assembly # GRA-1923 $24.95
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=4851

Hope this helped.


Thank you very much. That is the exact one I am looking at. I appreciate your response, good stuff.

[unit1069]

I put a Wolff #20 spring and SS guide rod in my G-32. I also think staying "stock" is the best policy but I'd read from several people that the Wolff recoil setup reduced the muzzle flip.

Two other people besides me shot both systems and we all agree that the gun has less muzzle flip with the Wolff recoil/SS rod assembly. I'll have to inspect the gun closely to see if there's any wear on the slide. I haven't noticed anything when cleaning the gun but I wasn't specifically looking for that.

[j1979]

I put a SS rod in with a 17lb spring on my G22 for the heck of it. Didnt notice a darn bit of difference. Have since shot 700+ fkawless rounds through it as well. I would trust both, I was just curious one day and ordered one.

[mrnuke7571]

That might be because you put a stronger spring in with it. If you didnt use a factory strength spring.

The glock 19c and 38 use the exact same recoil rod so the aftermarket SS rod/spring from the 19c should have worked the same on the 38 too.

[dday27]

I run a wolff 2 piece rod with a 21lb spring in my G30SF, Runs great!

[J.P.]

I've used the T.H.E. stainless guide rods and ISMI springs without any negative issues through three years of competition.

[Apocalypse_Now]

Apocalypse, Thanks for your help in keeping this thread on target. I appreciate it.

Happy to help, besides, I really want the answers, myself! :cool:

[GRR]

I have used SS RODS on all my glocks among other upgrades. G19 and 2 G23's. One of the G23's has thousands of rounds through it and it is being used as a duty weapon in LE. The ones i used are SS RODS with captured flat wound spring. I have never had a problem with any of them. Never had any kind of malfunctions, but i come from building 1911's. I believe the slide is a slight (very slight) smoother feel. I have never seen anyone go wrong with a SS ROD. Go ahead and do it. If you dont like it, you can always install the OEM. They are very cheap and easy.

This is the one i use. IMO, it has worked flawless.

LWD-GRA1923LWD S/S Guide Rod Assembly # GRA-1923 $24.95
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=4851

Hope this helped.

Or you can by 5 stock assemblies for the same price. http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=3973 $4.95 Put tens of thousands of rounds through my Glocks. Never had a stock guide rod break or chip or fail.

[Apocalypse_Now]

Or you can by 5 stock assemblies for the same price. http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=3973 $4.95 Put tens of thousands of rounds through my Glocks. Never had a stock guide rod break or chip or fail.

I get Glock parts wholesale.. so I will buy and stow away a few spare Op rod combos with my stock parts sets, but I'm also wondering about the aftermarket stuff for the reasons I've mentioned, too

[GMAN40]

I have used a captive SS guide rod w/ standard spring in my G21 for a couple of years now without any problems.

[unit1069]

I'll have to inspect the gun closely to see if there's any wear on the slide. I haven't noticed anything when cleaning the gun but I wasn't specifically looking for that.

I used a magnifying glass when I looked at my Glock last night. There are no marks at all on the inside of the slide so I assume the Wolff recoil assembly is working perfectly.

[unit1069]

I have used a captive SS guide rod w/ standard spring in my G21 for a couple of years now without any problems.

Is there any advantage/disadvantage in using a captive vs non-captive recoil assembly? I have the Wolff spring and SS guide rod but have been wondering if I should have gotten a captive system.

[Omaha-BeenGlockin]

The downside is that its not factory.

If it ain't broke --don't "fix" it.

Spend $10 for factory replacements---so that way you fixed it and have a spare.

[sigcalcatrant]

Is there any advantage/disadvantage in using a captive vs non-captive recoil assembly? I have the Wolff spring and SS guide rod but have been wondering if I should have gotten a captive system.The only advantage in using captive is it makes reassembly easier, which isn't much of an advantage to me.

[dango]

That is the same one I have in my G17,and 2500 rnds. later,love it.

[Brian Lee]

I still think the only real reason the factory part is plastic, is because it was cheap. But they found that it still worked reliably, so they thought: "WTF? Let's save the money. Can we really up the retail price enough to compensate for it if we use the more expensive rod?" And they answered themselves: "Probably not...."

I have both the stainless and tungsten rods, but I know that tungsten of this type (often called tungsten carbide) is a more brittle metal, so I consider it to be a target shooting rod that might break. The stainless rod is the one I prefer for reliability.

But as for ISMI springs, I have doubts about them actually keeping the weight they are supposed to have. I bought 17, 20, & 22 pound springs from them and (with dial calipers) I found that all three were made from the exact same size and thickness of wire. The only difference was the free length of the uncompressed spring (when NOT installed in the gun or on a captured rod). 17 was the shortest, and 22 was the longest. After one day of shooting, I took the springs off the rods and found that the free length of the 20 & 22 had now shrunk to the same as the 17 pound spring, and I can't really feel any difference in their strength anymore. But you can't really go by feel in the hand like that.

I think this calls for setting up a test fixture to see if the springs are really any different now that the free length is the same. I often specify custom made springs for industrial equipment, so I'm familiar with this kind of thing. When I have results, I'll post them.

[unit1069]

The downside is that its not factory.

If it ain't broke --don't "fix" it.

Spend $10 for factory replacements---so that way you fixed it and have a spare.

I bought the Wolff recoil assembly because I had read that it reduces the muzzle flip. I took the plunge and by anecdotal evidence from me and two other shooters it has reduced the muzzle flip. I'm happy with that and I still have the Glock OEM recoil assembly if anything goes wrong.

[unit1069]

The only advantage in using captive is it makes reassembly easier, which isn't much of an advantage to me.

If that's all the difference then the Wolff assembly is good to go. I thought maybe there might be a difference but a long as both function the same I ain't gonna spend another dime on fixing anything. I like the stronger recoil spring and SS guide rod assembly because the pistol flips less and recovery is enhanced. It should work just as well with the .40S&W barrel I will be getting.

[Arc Angel]

I'm interested in learned comments as well, since my next move after collecting the Glocks and mags I want will be full spare parts sets for all of them (and 2 x springs sets + many recoil springs)

EDIT: I'm looking at Wolff springs as replacements so I can leave my original setup in my parts kits. This requires the Wolff SS guide rod. Negatives? Kudos? And what LB recoil spring should I get for full power/high velocity defensive loads in the .40 S & W? Wolff lists from 12 lb all the way up..

:) I get a little tired of this argument; consequently, I've been reading and not posting in this thread. However, since everybody's being so polite I'll add my two cents:

I've got an assortment of recoil guide rods in my Glock parts box: The factory originals, a pair of captured steel rods, and two Wolff non-captured steel rods that I have installed in each of my G-21's. I came to Wolff steel rods through, 'the backdoor' so to speak. When my pistols were new I was having trouble with numerous OOB events which, as I subsequently found out, were caused by the old #4256 trigger bars.

While I was struggling with getting my G-21's to work reliably, one of the changes I made was to switch to Wolff steel guide rods and coil springs. This simple change improved the reliability (and slide speed) on my Glocks by, at least, 50%. I went from 7 or 8 failures to return to battery out of every 100 shots fired all the way down to only 3 or 4 OOB events per 100 rounds fired.

Consequently, I became a believer in steel guide rods! I don't like the captured type because the screw is just too hard to keep track of during prolonged periods of fire. Afterwards it may or may not be there. (Won't stop the gun; it's just a nuisance.) I've, also, read too many complaints about tungsten rods to be willing to give them a try. Tungsten is heavy; and that's good; but, apparently, it's also too brittle to function well as a material for guide rods.

What can you expect from a steel rod? The obvious answer is faster and smoother slide movement, and - in my considered opinion - better overall recoil characteristics and reduced front sight dwell time.

Of course, none of this is going to be an issue to someone who doesn't really rapid fire a pistol to begin with! Still, I thought I'd mention these advantages for those who do. If, however, you tend to fire a pistol at a nice even rate, then, you don't need to spend the money. The plastic factory rod will do just fine; and, you'll never know the difference.

To anyone who can use an advantage in slide speed and front sight dwell time, and is considering making this change, I wholeheartedly recommend the Wolff Gunsprings non-captured steel guide rod. (It's just a, 'better mousetrap'!)

By the way, Wolff rods aren't stainless steel. These rods are made out of carbon steel that is coated with Robar's very slick NP3 finish. (Or, at least, this is what Dave Koebensky told me, something like, 4 years ago.)






Apocalypse, start with the factory standard weight spring. If you decide to go up, then, use the spring that tests out correctly for your pistol and the ammunition you are using. ;)

[WickedGlock]

:) I get a little tired of this argument; consequently, I've been reading and not posting in this thread. However, since everybody's being so polite I'll add my two cents:

I've got an assortment of recoil guide rods in my Glock parts box: The factory originals, a pair of captured steel rods, and two Wolff non-captured steel rods that I have installed in each of my G-21's. I came to Wolff steel rods through, 'the backdoor' so to speak. When my pistols were new I was having trouble with numerous OOB events which, as I subsequently found out, were caused by the old #4256 trigger bars.

While I was struggling with getting my G-21's to work reliably, one of the changes I made was to switch to Wolff steel guide rods and coil springs. This simple change improved the reliability (and slide speed) on my Glocks by, at least, 50%. I went from 7 or 8 failures to return to battery out of every 100 shots fired all the way down to only 3 or 4 OOB events per 100 rounds fired.

Consequently, I became a believer in steel guide rods! I don't like the captured type because the screw is just too hard to keep track of during prolonged periods of fire. Afterwards it may or may not be there. (Won't stop the gun; it's just a nuisance.) I've, also, read too many complaints about tungsten rods to be willing to give them a try. Tungsten is heavy; and that's good; but, apparently, it's also too brittle to function well as a material for guide rods.

What can you expect from a steel rod? The obvious answer is faster and smoother slide movement, and - in my considered opinion - better overall recoil characteristics and reduced front sight dwell time.

Of course, none of this is going to be an issue to someone who doesn't really rapid fire a pistol to begin with! Still, I thought I'd mention these advantages for those who do. If, however, you tend to fire a pistol at a nice even rate, then, you don't need to spend the money. The plastic factory rod will do just fine; and, you'll never know the difference.

To anyone who can use an advantage in slide speed and front sight dwell time, and is considering making this change, I wholeheartedly recommend the Wolff Gunsprings non-captured steel guide rod. (It's just a, 'better mousetrap'!)

By the way, Wolff rods aren't stainless steel. These rods are made out of carbon steel that is coated with Robar's very slick NP3 finish. (Or, at least, this is what Dave Koebensky told me, something like, 4 years ago.)






Apocalypse, start with the factory standard weight spring. If you decide to go up, then, use the spring that tests out correctly for your pistol and the ammunition you are using. ;)


Thanks Arc. good stuff. Now I am torn between captive and non-captive. I ordered the captive already, along with 2 more stock ones for back up ( I have a a few 19's and 23's) I am going to order a non-captive tomorrow just to try it out and have it as an available option as well.

[k9Glock]

IMO: Both OEM and SS guide rods are good, but have their own disadvantages.

The OEM plastic rods (the single spring type,not the dual springs) are reliable and if use/place in the gun properly, will not chip/break at the butt. The gun will still function flawlessly without the nut holding the spring in place. This is only true with the single spring OEM rods and not the dual springs type used in the subcompacts. If the front nut were to break in the subcompacts, the gun will not cycle and will be as usefull as a piece of brick.

and again IMO...The down side to the single spring OEM rods is that it will not allow you to change the weight of the spring if you choose to shot hotter rounds. The down side to the OEM dual spring rods is that the design will disable the gun if the front nut were to break, but the percentage of that happening is very slim.

I use non-captured SS guide rods (including tungsten) for years without any malfunctions. I don't like the captured types(with screws) because they do require locktite to secure the nut from backing out. The advantage that a plastic rod has over a metal rod is that the plastic gives a little flex. I notice that the hole (for securing the guide rod in place) on the front of the slide is made just big enough to fit the OEM rod which is ok since the flexiblity of the rod will compensate the required movement for the slide to cycle. With that said, the use of a "metal type" rod will rub slightly around edge of the hole since there is no flex with the SS rod. I don't see any future problems with a SS rods and long term use since most gun companies (like H&K, Sig, berattas,etc.) use "metal" guide rods in their guns. I only have this problem with the G17L and certain SS rods, and its because the SS rod was made too long or too short. The small hole for the guide rod and the long tube(due to the extra length of the slide) for the G17L was hitting the SS rod and not allowing it to cycle properly. I put the OEM rod back in and the problem went away.

The OEM dual spring guide rod is not made out of plastic. I use the Wolff non -captured guide rods (in my G26 and G30) which use the dual round springs, but without the nut to secure the part in place. I find that the Wolff design for the subcompacts is more reliable than the captured design (just my opinion). I have never had any problems with the Wolff using the factory recommended spring weight. My other glocks, I stick with the OEM rods (especially my G17Ls) and the Arotek aluminum guide rod with factory spring for carry. The Arotek uses the "press" method to secure the spring just like the factory guide rod. I use non-captured rods with different springs at the range.

I tested the parts in certain guns before I would carry them. Use what you like and are comfortable with....

[tooouter]

I still think the only real reason the factory part is plastic, is because it was cheap. But they found that it still worked reliably, so they thought: "WTF? Let's save the money. Can we really up the retail price enough to compensate for it if we use the more expensive rod?" And they answered themselves: "Probably not...."

I have both the stainless and tungsten rods, but I know that tungsten of this type (often called tungsten carbide) is a more brittle metal, so I consider it to be a target shooting rod that might break. The stainless rod is the one I prefer for reliability.

But as for ISMI springs, I have doubts about them actually keeping the weight they are supposed to have. I bought 17, 20, & 22 pound springs from them and (with dial calipers) I found that all three were made from the exact same size and thickness of wire. The only difference was the free length of the uncompressed spring (when NOT installed in the gun or on a captured rod). 17 was the shortest, and 22 was the longest. After one day of shooting, I took the springs off the rods and found that the free length of the 20 & 22 had now shrunk to the same as the 17 pound spring, and I can't really feel any difference in their strength anymore. But you can't really go by feel in the hand like that.

I think this calls for setting up a test fixture to see if the springs are really any different now that the free length is the same. I often specify custom made springs for industrial equipment, so I'm familiar with this kind of thing. When I have results, I'll post them.

:perfect10::perfect10:

I agree, plastic rods are a cost cutting measure not a design "feature" as the cool-aid guzzlers would lead you to believe.

I use a non-captured Wolf rod and have the Wolf "Calibration Pack" assortment of springs for my G20. Since the 10mm is so versatile a round & I reload many different loads a one size fits all recoil spring didn't seem appropriate. The Wolf set-up gives me the flexibility to make the most of the gun.

I highly recommend the Wolf rod & springs, go for it.

[army_eod]

I have had many Glocks and was using SS guide rods in all. Never a problem.

However, I just bought a new G19 and figure I am staying stock on the rod.

No screws to lose. Replacements are cheap. If it is OEM is it OK with me.

Note that Beretta has been putting the polymer guide rods in its 92FS and M9 for a while now. Yes, even the military issue models.

[kraigster414]

If Gaston had wanted you to put a SS rod in there, he would have done it for you.

Just my opinion...I'm as full of sh1t as anybody. :upeyes:

Then why did Gaston's plastic rod and spring fall apart in my new G27 after 300 rounds? The exception? Perhaps but I am not the only and I will never again use the plastic OEM captured recoil assembly in a Glock subcompact. It only has to happen to you once to make you a believer. That G27 was a carry gun not a range gun by the way. In the Glock subcompacts, I use the Wolff non-captured recoil assembly. In my compacts, I use the Glockmeister captured s/s.