Tiling aroung bathroom toilet flange

[The Next Level]

Getting back to normalcy with Hurricane Ike out of here. After getting the trees cut off my shed and the endless wheel burrows of debris out of my yard I can focus on my projects around the house.


I posted about a year ago about tiling in our spare bathroom but this case is a different situation. Before I begin I need to know what to do around the toilet flange in the guest bathroom

Here is where I stand. After I removed the toilet I discovered the bolts that hold the toilet down spin freely. (They dont lock to the flange) So when i put the toilet back on the wax ring im concerned the bolts will just spin when i try to tighten it down. Are there bolts I can replace them with that will lock in the flange?

I remember reading something somewhere that I will need to use a 1/2" extention. Does that slide on top of the existing ring?

Do I tile up to the existing flange or rip it off and tile under and replace with a new flange? Any info would be great!!








http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v114/dimb2003/100_54442.jpg

[stk10767]

Replace the flange with new bolts. You have access to it now, so now is the time to do it. Also, you should tile underneath the flange. It will give you the proper finished height in most cases and gives you a more sturdy mount for the toilet.

[gjk5]

Replace the flange with new bolts. You have access to it now, so now is the time to do it. Also, you should tile underneath the flange. It will give you the proper finished height in most cases and gives you a more sturdy mount for the toilet.


Yep. I also prefer using a brass flange on concrete, plastic is OK on ply subfloors.

[Deanster]

I just did this job a couple months ago.

New bolts and nuts came in the package along with the wax seal. I tiled up to the edge of the flange (required to give the right height in my case - normally not preferred), without worrying too much about making it pretty, since it's under the toilet. Put in the new bolts - the heads are shaped to fit in the slots, and I didn't have any trouble with them rotating.

The worst part of the job was scraping the old wax off both the flange and the underside of the toilet - gooky and really hard to get clean enough to seal well next time.

Good luck!

[cphilip]

They are "T" bolts. With a flat head that slips up in the slots of the flange and then tightening them draws the commode down to the flange with the seal forced to fill in between them. Get some new T bolts and slip the old ones out and the new ones in. You'll find them in the Plumbing section of Lowes, Home depot, etc...

[bp_cowboy]

Yes, the bolts can spin some, even the T-bolts. Place the toilet over the flange with the wax ring. Using some small channel locks or vice grips that have plastic protectors on the teeth to help hold the bolt while you tighten it. As you tighten the nuts lower and lower, hold the stem portion of the bolt above the nut.

[sebecman]

remove the old flange, tile the floor and then replace with a new flange that sits on the top of the tiles....when you do the wax ring get the extra large size (same price) and it will do a better job...

[The Next Level]

The old flange seems to be glued to the pvc drain. There are no anchor bolts holding it down. Is it absolutely necessary to remove it before laying tile? Would it still seal if tile is laid up to flange, and not under?

I may need a torch to remove the old flange

[Trigger_Rush]

The old flange seems to be glued to the pvc drain. There are no anchor bolts holding it down. Is it absolutely necessary to remove it before laying tile? Would it still seal if tile is laid up to flange, and not under?

I may need a torch to remove the old flange

It's preferred that the flange be above the tile, but not required. If the flange is below the tile, no good. As long as the tile top will be flush with the flange top, you'll be a-ok. If the flange is flush with the tile, make sure you purchase an extra thick wax ring to make up the distance.

Alternatively, if you're so inclined, you can cut the top of the flange off, then tile around the pipe. The flange you should put in then is one that actually fits down inside the pipe. Once in, you tighten two-four bolts (depending on brand) on the top that will draw the bottom of the flange up, squeezing out a rubber seal that pushes against the pipe wall. This will allow you to have the flange on top of the tile. Be sure the toilet bolt slots are aligned to where the toilet will sit.

Once that's completed, the flange will have holes to bolt it to the floor. Drill through the tile into the concrete and use a proper anchor/screw to fasten the flange to the floor. Ta-daa! The flange is in.

As for spinning toilet bolts, sometimes you'll get a flange that has keyed slots to prevent them from spinning. What you'll want to do is buy two toilet bolt kits. Stick the bolts into the flange and then tighten it to the flange with a washer and a nut. Put your toilet on and then use the washer and nut from the other kit to secure your toilet to the floor.

Lastly, CAULK THE TOILET DOWN. I've pulled a couple toilets up that weren't caulked and had a nest of scorpions living in the hollow. Scary stuff.

If you've got any other questions of concerns, send me a PM and I'll be more than happy to help you out.

BTW, I'm a plumber :supergrin:


This is the replacement flange
http://images.hardwareandtools.com/P/6714364.jpg

[Trigger_Rush]

The old flange seems to be glued to the pvc drain. There are no anchor bolts holding it down. Is it absolutely necessary to remove it before laying tile? Would it still seal if tile is laid up to flange, and not under?

I may need a torch to remove the old flange

Also, if you cut the flange off, you'll need one of these

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/attachments/plumbing/6028d1201705184-fiberglass-shower-drain-leak-w-pics-wingtite-pipe-cutter.jpg

Can buy it at Lowe's or Home Depot, chucks right in to any power drill. Use it to cut the flange off from the inside of the pipe.