Is this 7.62x54R corrosive?

[ComputerGuy6382]

A762x54RP Polish 7.62x54R 147grn Silver Tip Light Ball


Item#A762x54RP
AIM Exclusive! 1970's Surplus Polish 7.62x54R Ammunition. Considered by many to be some of, if not the best surplus 7.62x54R ammunition. Features a 147grn silver tipped light ball steel core full metal jacketed bullet, copper washed steel case, and berdan primer. This is clean, sure fire ammunition. Packaged 20rds per pack, 440rds per can, and 880rds to a wooden case. Can opener included with 2 can or greater orders only. Detailed pictures below.

440rnds for $79.95


Is the above ammo corrosive??



A762x54BY Bulgarian 7.62x54R Heavy Ball Yellow Tip


Item#A762x54BY
Late 40's to early 50's surplus Bulgarian Heavy Ball Yellow Tip 7.62x54R ammunition. Features a brass case, berdan primer, and full metal jacketed heavy ball bullet. Packaged 300rds to can

Now I'm sure this ammo is corrosive but is there anything wrong with it??

[rgregoryb]

1. Yes


2. No

[FillYerHands]

Is there a way to know? (Duh? . . .) But I have just always assumed that mil surp ammo was corrosive and cleaned accordingly.

Is it powder type, primer, or what that determines? Both are berdan primed.

[m2hmghb]

Powder and priming type(Berdan vs Boxer) really have nothing to do with it. The corrosion comes from the salts in the primers used to stabilize the mixture. Berdan primed is normally considered corrosive because the countries which primarily used it didn't switch to non-corrosive priming mixtures until the 1990s where as the Boxer primed system switched to non-corrosive in the 1950s.

[diamondmike]

Any of the imported stuff could have corrosive primers but it does not matter as long as you clean the gun before putting it away which I do that anyway.

Wolf makes a round in the 7.62x54 that is a soft point with copper jacket and brass casing and has non-corrosive primers but sells for around $20 dollars per 20 rounds.
Winchester also makes a solf point with copper jacket and brass casing and non-corrosive primers but they also sell for like $25 dollars per 20 rounds.
I would not use these brands for target shooting because of the expense but they make a great load for selfdefense and hunting.

I have had one brand of steel case ammo lock up the bolt because the metal casing over expanded but it did not have any name on it so I can not tell you to watch out for this brand but any of the steel case ammo can over expand.
Before you buy a bunch of ammo I would try one box to make sure it will work good in your gun.

But not all steel case ammo over expands because I bought 1000 rounds of steel core and it has a steel case and works great.

I would order just 1 box so that you do not get stuck with a bunch of ammo that is going to take away the fun of shooting by pounding the casing out shot after shot.

[diamondmike]

Powder and priming type(Berdan vs Boxer) really have nothing to do with it. The corrosion comes from the salts in the primers used to stabilize the mixture. Berdan primed is normally considered corrosive because the countries which primarily used it didn't switch to non-corrosive priming mixtures until the 1990s where as the Boxer primed system switched to non-corrosive in the 1950s.

What makes ammuntion corrosive is mercury primers.

It has nothing to do with the gun powder used and its the mercury in the primers that can cause problems.

[blueiron]

Consider all eastern bloc ammo as corrosive and clean accordingly.

[David_Ely]

Consider all eastern bloc ammo as corrosive and clean accordingly.

AMEN! But just because the primers are corrosive doesn't make it bad ammo. It just takes a couple minutes to clean up after shooting it and it's cheap!

[Apocalypse_Now]

What makes ammuntion corrosive is mercury primers.

It has nothing to do with the gun powder used and its the mercury in the primers that can cause problems.

Common misconception.. the really old WW2 and pre WW2 ammo was generally mercuric primed. These primers can wreck a bore in no time flat if the gun is not meticulously and repeatedly cleaned in a specific manner with the right cleaning solutions. The mercuric elements literally erode the steel

Later ammo was manufactured with salted primers, meaning the potential damage was lessened, basically they cause rust in the bore as moisture is absorbed via humidity. This is the ammo the TO is talking about

Field cleaning after shooting salted primer ammo can be accomplished with a bore brush and patches soaked with Windex or ammonia, followed by some CLP or other light oil to coat the bore until you can do a complete cleaning. The best way, however is a red hot thermos full of hot water and a tablespoon of hand dishwashing detergent, 3 or four dumps down the bore from the chamber end using a small funnel, each followed by a bore brush pass, and if possible a chamber brush too, then the CLP or oil. Either way when you get back home you should do a complete and normal cleaning with Hoppes, etc.. and it wouldn't hurt to clean the bore again, the next day

I buy the 10 packs of twisted wire tube brushes from Harbor Freight tools, bend the wire handle at a 90 degree angle, and use that as a chamber brush. Even the nylon brushes can suffice

[David_Ely]

Don't forget to clean the bolt/bolt face as well as the barrel.

[Tim13]

It's a good rule of thumb to consider all 7.62x54R surplus to be corrosive. Don't be afraid of corrosive ammo in any gun, especially a Mosin. Just think of how many hundred, or thousands of rounds have been run through each surplus M44. Do you think the Russian soldiers meticulously cleaned their rifle after each time they shot it? Just clean your gun appropriately after each range session, and all will be well.

Tim

[tjpet]

What makes ammuntion corrosive is mercury primers.

It has nothing to do with the gun powder used and its the mercury in the primers that can cause problems.


Mecuric and corrosive priming are not the same thing. Mecuric priming was pretty much out of the picture by the early 1900's. It was hard on brass cases in particular (made them brittle and unsuitable for reloading) and on gun barrels to a lesser degree. Last use of mecuric primed US ammo I've ever heard of was a Winchester primer used in certain lots of .300 H&H slated for long range target work, discontinued approximately 1960.

Corrosive primers don't contain salt but a compound which turns to a salt-like substance after firing. This, in turn, will suck moisture out of the air which leads to potential rusting. It's easily removed with water (cold, tepid, hot) or a water-based cleaner. Conventional cleaning solvents WILL NOT remove it. Clean with water/water-based solvent first then use a standard cleaner.

FWIW, the Germans and Remington both came out with good non-corrosive primers a couple decades before WWII. But militaries throughout the world stuck with corrosive ammo for decades believing it to be more stable for long-term storage.

[robertwilliam]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using corrosive ammo/ primers. Just take time to clean your weapon when you are done shooting. I fire corrosive ammo in even my most prized weapons and have never had a problem or any rust. In recent years I would recon that Pyrodex has led to more ruined and rusted bores than corrosive priming. Pyrodex is real bad stuff on steel and alot of users forget to clean after shooting.

[Ron3]

Yes it is.

No big deal. Just clean with HOT water. Then clean normally. I boil a pot of water and have a dedicated turkey baster. Works great, no corrosion.

Ron3

[JoshuaC]

Been using normal old windex down the bore and on a stripped bolt and haven't had any rust.