Darn crimped primer pockets [Archive] - Glock Talk

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BK63
01-31-2009, 21:21
I gotta be more careful picking up my brass at the range, or maybe check it over better before reloading. Got one of those crimped primer pocket casings in the mix and crunched my deprimer. Who ever thought of that crap anyway? Good thing I got extra parts. I forgot about those things.

:supergrin:

PBKing
01-31-2009, 21:25
Define: crunched my deprimer

Most if not all decappers will punch a crimped primer out with a more noticable effort but you might have picked up a Berdan Primed case.

What headstamp?

btefft
01-31-2009, 21:29
+1 what PBKing said.

If I'm collecting range brass, I tend to leave behind WCC stamped 9mm. I've never had a problem depriming, only in the attempt to re-prime it. Basically, if the head doesn't say 9mm Luger or 9 x 19, I toss it.

Hack

BK63
01-31-2009, 21:32
Basically the pin broke off and the rod the cap holding the pin screws onto bent. Lyman carbide dies. Not a big deal I have all kinds of dies/parts etc. This casing was hard though. I haven't run into one of these casings in a long time and forgot about them. on the outside looks just like the rest of my cases.

Ok went to the dungeon, went through the trash and dug this out. I actually came across a second one today. Was at the range and managed to pick up a second one but now I check them all. Looks just like the 45's I'm loading. On the headstamp it says `left side "sf" top "56" right side "I" bottom "4".

bdh_1
01-31-2009, 23:56
I doubt that it's the crimped primer that broke the decapping pin. Much more likely to be foreign Berdan primed ammo. I've decapped LOTS of M882 brass and never broke a pin yet.

njl
02-01-2009, 06:48
+1 what PBKing said.

If I'm collecting range brass, I ten to ignore WCC stamped 9mm. I've never had a problem depriming, only in the attempt to re-prime it. Basically, the head doesn't say 9mm Luger or 9 x 19, I toss it.

Hack

Hmm...so this WCC NATO 9mm brass has crimped primer pockets? Is it even worth the effort to deprime and then hand remove the crimp? Is that why you ignore the WCC brass?

BHP9
02-01-2009, 07:34
Basically the pin broke off and the rod the cap holding the pin screws onto bent. Lyman carbide dies. Not a big deal I have all kinds of dies/parts etc. This casing was hard though. I haven't run into one of these casings in a long time and forgot about them. on the outside looks just like the rest of my cases.

Ok went to the dungeon, went through the trash and dug this out. I actually came across a second one today. Was at the range and managed to pick up a second one but now I check them all. Looks just like the 45's I'm loading. On the headstamp it says `left side "sf" top "56" right side "I" bottom "4".

SF is made in Argentina and it could be Berdan primed - look in the bottom of the case and you will see 2 flash holes. Throw away.

WCC is US military and is good brass - you just have to swage/ ream the primer pockets. Keep.

BK63
02-01-2009, 09:28
Yeah 2 flash holes. Never seen one of these before.

btefft
02-01-2009, 10:05
Hmm...so this WCC NATO 9mm brass has crimped primer pockets? Is it even worth the effort to deprime and then hand remove the crimp? Is that why you ignore the WCC brass?

Don't know if its NATO, but on the times I tried to insert a new primer, it just looks like crap. Often the primer is dented on one side, or doesn't completely seat.

Since I find lots of brass head stamped "9mm Luger" and "9 x 19" at the range, I'm not interested in the chore of removing the primer pocket crimp from "WCC". I don't have a tool for it anyway.

Hack

btefft
02-01-2009, 10:11
Yeah 2 flash holes. Never seen one of these before.

Yep, that's a Berden. Your primer knockout hit between the two holes and bent.

I recently bought a set of Hornady New Dimemsion Dies and the knockout thing can slip up, so instead the bending, it gives. The dies come with a lifetime warranty and I bent several knockouts because I had it set too tight and it wouldn't give. And when I called Hornady, they just send me more - free.

Can't beat that.

Hack

BK63
02-01-2009, 10:13
I'll have to look into those dies. Even the carbide stuff won't last forever. Thanks.

Firecop203
02-01-2009, 21:02
Get a universal decapping die.

btefft
02-02-2009, 11:19
Get a universal decapping die.

The universal decapping die I have is made by Lee. I stopped using it because I like to resize while I deprime.

Then, I use an RCBS hand-held primer device to press new primers in the already resized cases - then I just reload.

I only use Lee Universal Deprimer die now to knock out the primers from the cases that held the rubber bullets I sometimes pay around with. Those cases don't need to be resized.

Hack

jaybirdjtt
01-13-2010, 23:45
I've been using a Wilson Inside/Outside case mouth deburring tool ($20) for years to remove the crimp from the primer pockets on military brass. Works with large and small primers. The same tool deburrs case mouths. Two for one deal! Just wanted to pass this along. Plus you get a nice bevel on the pocket like with the Remington brass.
So, be sure to examine the headstamps and cull out the military brass ahead of time. It IS a pain to attempt to seat that primer.
FYI....like alot of reloaders, even if I had $$ to shoot only high end factory loads I'd still reload and still bend over to pick up range brass.

dudel
01-14-2010, 01:43
I doubt that it's the crimped primer that broke the decapping pin. Much more likely to be foreign Berdan primed ammo. I've decapped LOTS of M882 brass and never broke a pin yet.

Or a non reloadable round (also Berdan). Not all Berdan cases are foreign. Blazer aluminum cases at one time were Berdan primed, with NR on the case. Not all Berdan cases have NR on them.

dudel
01-14-2010, 01:51
I'll have to look into those dies. Even the carbide stuff won't last forever. Thanks.

Carbide has nothing to do with the decapping pin. It will last almost forever if given a minimum amount of care. I've not worn out a carbide die yet (I'll bet Jack hasn't either).

It's the design of the decapping rod that's the issue. A decapping rod that screws into the die has no "give" when it can't punch out the primer. Hornady and Lee (which I know for sure), use a collet system to hold the decapping rod. When properly set, the decapping rod will slide out of position rather than bend or break. Another advantage of this type of system, is that it can be used to remove a case stuck in the die by loosening the collet and driving the decapping rod down.

Another reason I use a Lee Universal decapping die which another poster mentioned. Decap, then tumble clean. Run clean, deprimed brass through the sizing die and you don't have to worry about breaking sizing dies or grunging up carbide sizers. Plus the primer pockets get cleaned.

Cobra64
01-14-2010, 03:52
Basically the pin broke off and the rod the cap holding the pin screws onto bent. Lyman carbide dies. Not a big deal I have all kinds of dies/parts etc. This casing was hard though. I haven't run into one of these casings in a long time and forgot about them. on the outside looks just like the rest of my cases.

Ok went to the dungeon, went through the trash and dug this out. I actually came across a second one today. Was at the range and managed to pick up a second one but now I check them all. Looks just like the 45's I'm loading. On the headstamp it says `left side "sf" top "56" right side "I" bottom "4".


You may want to check the primer hole configuration.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/Davis1950/Weapons/Ammo/BOXER-BERDAN.jpg

ron59
01-14-2010, 06:03
GUYS!

Be aware this is a "reawoken" year old thread the guy posted in for some reason.....