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PART TWO: How To Reassemble A Completely Broken-Down Glock

Posted 11-15-2012 at 21:12 by Arc Angel
Updated 02-04-2013 at 07:14 by Arc Angel

(1) First, remember not to reinstall the Trigger (Return) Spring backwards! It MUST be reinstalled in the shape of the letter, ‘S’ when viewed from the side with the Trigger held in your right-hand, and the Trigger Housing Mechanism held in your left-hand.

(2) Simply reverse the disassembly directions to reattach the Trigger Bar and Trigger Mechanism Housing. The Connector goes on BEFORE the Trigger Bar is attached.

(3) You can use the hole the (FP) Striker, ‘lives in’ at the back of the slide as a mandrel in order to compress the Striker (FP) Spring and hold it in place while reinstalling the Spring Cups. Place the Striker (FP) Assembly backwards into the hole, and catch the lip of the FP stud on the back of the slide in order to compress the spring.

NOTE 3-1: Do NOT allow the sharp end of the (FP) Striker Spring to line up with either side of the seam between the Spring Cups.

(4) Assemble the Extractor and (FP) Striker Safety (with its little spring) in their respective positions BEFORE fully inserting both the Striker (FP), and the Extractor/Depressor/Plunger Rod all the way forward and into place.

NOTE 4-1: Now is the proper time to check your Striker (FP) for proper performance by trying to push the Striker (FP) all the way forward with the Striker (FP) Safety in both the up, and down positions. (Read the Owner's Manual for more details.)

(5) The Frame Pins are replaced in the exact order: one, two, three - Generally by once again following AR15 assembly protocol and working from the right side of the frame to the left.

NOTE #5-1: IMPORTANT: The protruding spring arm on the Slide Stop must be placed UNDERNEATH the Number One Pin. If the Number Two Pin hangs up, simply wiggle the Slide Stop up and down until it catches the groove.

NOTE #5-2: Use the top of THE HANDLE of the armorer’s tool in order to insert the frame pins most of the way into their respective holes. Then, guide the shaft of the armorer’s tool with the tip of your working thumb as you seat each pin.

(6) There is a flange (or groove) on one side of the Slide Lock. That right angle flange must always point toward THE BACK of the frame – away from the muzzle (smooth side forward).

(7) [COLOR=RED]Do NOT insert any magazine (or, ‘clip’) into the frame until after you have completely function checked the pistol.[/COLOR]

NOTE #7-1: As a matter of fact, it’s a very good idea NOT to keep any loaded magazine or ammunition anywhere near your workbench whenever you’re working on, or cleaning a Glock.

Instead it’s better to have to get up and walk away from your work area in order to locate any magazine, or any ammunition, and thereafter load the pistol. Gun repairs and cleaning are best conducted away from any and all access to ammunition.

(8) If you want to check the Slide Stop for proper function, use an empty magazine and do it as the final step in the reassembly process - BEFORE moving on to actually loading the pistol with live ammunition.

(9) Finally, anytime you remove a Glock’s slide from the frame, the first thing you should do BEFORE reconnecting the slide and frame, back together again, is to push down with your thumb on top of the larger end of the Recoil Guide Rod in order to make sure that the Guide Rod is fully seated in the barrel’s assembly groove. This will prevent jamming the slide and frame together and, possibly, locking the pistol up and making it tough to, once again, break free.

[COLOR=RED]ADVISORY:[/COLOR] I am NOT a Certified Glock Armorer! (I'm only that armorer which Gaston Glock has forced me to become.) ;)


(11/10/12: Arc Angel/Glock Talk > The Armory > Gunsmithing > Glock Disassembly DVD. Asked By, ‘SBray’.)

[url]http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19622754#post19622754[/url]
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