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PART ONE: How To Completely Disassemble A Glock Pistol

Posted 11-15-2012 at 20:18 by Arc Angel
Updated 02-04-2013 at 06:03 by Arc Angel


(1) Should begin with removal of the magazine – Full removal, and storage away from the work area.

(2) Then lock the slide back for, both, visual and tactile verification that the chamber is empty.

(3) Lower the slide; point the pistol in a safe direction, and pull the Trigger.

(4) Slightly withdraw the slide and pull down on the slide lock. Ease the slide and barrel assembly forward until it’s off the frame.

(5) Remove the recoil guide rod and spring.

(6) Remove the barrel.

(7) Use the flat side of a small screwdriver's blade in order to push back on the edge of the striker (FP) spacer sleeve. This releases pressure on the rear slide cover.

(8) SLOWLY remove the slide cover while [B]keeping your thumb on top of the opening[/B] in order to catch that (mischievous) spring loaded bearing that often tries to pop out and get lost on the floor.

(9) Recognize that the extractor depressor plunger rod has the spring and bearing (SLB) located at the rear of the slide. (You’ll need to know this when it’s time to reassemble!)

(10) Once the extractor depressor plunger rod is removed, the firing pin safety and the extractor will fall out. (Give the FP safety a slight push to get it to let go of the extractor.) At the same time be careful not to lose that little spring that sits on top of the firing pin safety.

(11) Draw down on the firing pin spring and remove the spring cups. (It’s a good idea to keep a small container on your workbench to hold small parts like the FP safety spring, extractor depressor plunger spring, and spring cups.)

That’s it! The slide assembly has, now, been successfully taken apart.


(1) The Glock armorer’s tool (or any long shank 3/32" punch) is all you need to remove a Glock’s pins. Excessive force is not needed. Guide the tip of the punch with the thumb and index finger of your support hand. This will prevent the punch from slipping and marring the frame.


(2) On most (but not all) Glocks you’ve got 3 pins to deal with. The Number One pin is the, ‘Lock Block Pin’. It is the highest pin and sits above the Number Two, ‘Trigger Pin’. The Number Three pin is the, ‘Trigger Housing Pin’ at the back of the pistol.

NOTE #2-1: Generally, use AR15 maintenance protocol for removing the pins from a Glock: From the left side of the frame to the right side of the frame. If a pin hangs, try inserting or removing it in the reverse direction.

(3) The Number One and Number Two pins should always be removed in the precise sequence of removing the Number One, first, followed by the Number Two pin. If the Number Two pin hangs up, first make certain that the end of the Slide Stop , itself, is set squarely on the pin; if it is, then, simply wiggle the slide stop up and down until it lets go.

(4) It does not matter when or how you remove the Number Three pin. You can do this with or without removing the Number One and Number Two pins. The important thing to remember is that whenever you intend to remove all three pins, they should be removed, together, in the precise order of: one, two, three.

(5) With all the pins out, remove the lock block by prying upward at the back of the block with either the armorer’s tool or the blade of a small screwdriver. Then remove the Trigger Bar and Trigger Mechanism Housing as a complete assembly.

(6) Position the complete Trigger Assembly in front of you with the Trigger, itself, on your right-hand side, and the Trigger Mechanism Housing on your left-hand side. Hold on firmly to the Trigger Mechanism Housing, and pull the Trigger Bar, itself, slightly to the right while you angle it up and in toward your body at about a 45 degree angle. The Trigger Mechanism Housing will, now, separate itself from the Trigger Bar, and the Trigger (Return) Spring will dangle loose.

(7) Remove the Trigger (Return) Spring and completely separate the Trigger Bar from the Trigger Mechanism Housing.

IMPORTANT: Notice that the Trigger (Return) Spring is installed in the exact shape of the letter, ‘S’. On reassembly do NOT install it as a reversed (backward) ‘Z’.

(8) On Third Generation, or later, Glocks turn the Trigger Mechanism Housing over to the side opposite the Connector. You’ll see a small hole directly behind the bottom of the Connector Bar. Insert the 3/32’s punch through this hole and push the Connector all the way out of the Trigger Mechanism Housing.

(9) [COLOR=RED]Critical Component Check![/COLOR] The one part that holds everything else together on a Glock is not what you might think: It’s NOT the Slide Lock, and it’s not the Lock Block! Instead it’s that little Slide Lock Spring that sits in the frame, just forward of the Lock Block, and underneath the Slide Lock, itself.

NOTE 9-1: The Slide Lock Spring is the one part that actually holds the slide and frame together! Like extra Spring Cups, a Recoil Spring Assembly, and an extra Slide Stop this is the other Glock part that every field expedient repair kit should contain.

[COLOR=RED]The Slide Lock Spring should be periodically examined against incipient failure.[/COLOR]

(10) In order to examine the Slide Lock Spring, press down on it from above. This releases pressure on the Slide Lock, itself, which may then be removed by simply letting it fall out to one side or the other. Now gently insert your narrow screw driver blade underneath the Slide Lock Spring and lift it up in order to remove it for cleaning and examination.

(11) Whenever you reinstall the Slide Lock into the frame always make certain that the, 'U' shaped flange on one side of the Slide Lock is facing to the pistol's rear.

(12) Optional: Personally, I have never found a good reason to remove the Magazine Catch; and, the factory recommends that you should generally leave it alone. If, however, you want to change or remove this part, then, simply push the Magazine Catch Spring to the right and pull it out of it’s recess by moving it through the small open cutout in the back of the front strap. It goes back in the same way. The magazine catch may, now, be removed from the frame.

NOTE: 12-1: When you replace the Magazine Catch Spring be sure to SEAT IT ALL THE WAY DOWN into its hole. If it’s sticking up too high the Magazine Catch will not be easy to put back in.

That’s it! The frame has, now, been successfully taken apart. :thumbsup:

[COLOR=RED]ADVISORY:[/COLOR] I am NOT a Certified Glock Armorer! (I'm only that armorer which Gaston Glock has forced me to become.) ;)

(11/10/12: Arc Angel/Glock Talk > The Armory > Gunsmithing > Glock Disassembly DVD. Asked By, ‘SBray’.)

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Nov 11, 2013 at 11:42