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-   -   Inspection tips for buying used Glock (http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1155960)

beforeobamabans 12-08-2009 16:02

Inspection tips for buying used Glock
 
In the near future, I will be looking at my first potential purchase of a used Glock (I've always bought new) and I'm curious as to what you would specifically look for when inspecting used Glocks (or any gun for that matter) prior to purchase. I will probably not have a chance to shoot this gun before making my decision. My checklist currently includes:

1. Visual inspection of exterior for damage, scars, wear.
2. Dry fire for function.
3. Load mags for function.
4. Cycle loaded mag through gun by racking slide.
5. Field strip
6. Inspect internals for cleanliness, wear.
7. Check documentation of test fire date, S/N, matching numbers
8. Check for aftermarket internals.

Your suggestions to add to this list will be appreciated.

SCC 12-08-2009 16:57

Make sure all the numbers match ...

Maine1 12-08-2009 17:00

check for aftermarket internals, such as firing pin and connector.

Most used glocks will be a little dirty. the only time i have been bitten is with aftermarked parts..but the gun DID shoot fine for about 8k rounds before becoming a problem.

beforeobamabans 12-08-2009 17:55

Thanks. The gun I'm going to be looking at is an early gen G30 (no rail). The seller also bought this gun used, claims to have only put 50 rds thru and hasn't been able to provide any prior history. He does have the original case and mags. I have a Jan '09 G30SF, so I feel pretty comfortable working the gun and taking it apart. I am very curious to get a look at the trigger bar after all the furor over scratched bars and related slide interference problems on recent vintage G30SFs. The seller is asking $350 which I view as fair. It will be an interesting exercise for me and hopefully that reknown Glock reliability will carry me through anything I overlook.

SCC and Maine: OP updated to include your suggestions. Thanks.

SCC 12-08-2009 18:18

Find a gssf near you and they will go over it and replace any parts that need to be replaced for you for free ....

MarkCO 12-08-2009 18:27

As long as the frame, barrel and slide are not cracked or otherwise damaged, you will be fine. I know a guy who went to a GSSF match with a Glock he got taken on used that had no trigger guts or housing, just a paperclip holding the trigger in place. Armorer put ALL new parts in and sent him off to shoot the match.

Look for hogged out pin holes in the frame. I press them out and put them back to make sure everything is correct. Dirty does not matter much to me, means they are not trying to cover somehting up (usually) and shot it. Run your pinched fingers down the barrel feeling for bulges, and then look for any rings or pitting IN the barrel. Make sure the extractor is not broken (if it is, bargain the price down and still get it). I don't care a bit about hand cycling rounds, gives no indication of proper function, so shoot it if you can meet seller at the range.

ENDOtactical 12-08-2009 18:28

In before the explosion jokes :P

In all seriousness though that list you compiled is good, except #4 might make some gun store workers nervous, or might not even be allowed for liability reasons

OVERTHEHILLGUY 12-08-2009 22:16

Check the breach face. If it has a inward dimple around the firing pin hole, this will indicate the pistol has been shot alot, maybe with hot hand loads.


OVERTHEHILLGUY

voyager4520 12-09-2009 05:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkCO (Post 14308368)
As long as the frame, barrel and slide are not cracked or otherwise damaged, you will be fine. I know a guy who went to a GSSF match with a Glock he got taken on used that had no trigger guts or housing, just a paperclip holding the trigger in place. Armorer put ALL new parts in and sent him off to shoot the match.

Look for hogged out pin holes in the frame. I press them out and put them back to make sure everything is correct. Dirty does not matter much to me, means they are not trying to cover somehting up (usually) and shot it. Run your pinched fingers down the barrel feeling for bulges, and then look for any rings or pitting IN the barrel. Make sure the extractor is not broken (if it is, bargain the price down and still get it). I don't care a bit about hand cycling rounds, gives no indication of proper function, so shoot it if you can meet seller at the range.

My philosophy. Make sure the gun isn't stolen or anything, matching serial numbers, and as long as the slide, barrel, and frame are in good condition I'll buy it, but not for more than $400 because if I have to replace internals anything over $400 I might've been better off buying a new one. The pin holes in the frame is a good suggestion, some people detail strip so often that these holes get too enlarged.

k80clay 12-09-2009 05:57

Yea, I don't know about #4. Personally, I wouldn't let a prospective buyer load a pistol (ever see Terminator?).

I dry fire the pistol, and with the trigger held back, push on the top of the chamber. If there is a lot of movement, it's pretty worn. If there is just a little, less so, but keep in mind, even the new guns will have a little play when you do this.

It's usually not hard to see if a pistol has been taken car of or not.

JustShoot-IT 12-20-2009 11:10

Excellent idea for a thread. Interestingly Ive never bought a new firearm and I have some.
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Although Id probably do it if the seller allowed, I think that #4 could be an issue. I have a Sig 226 40S&W that hangs up when chambering while cycling by hand (even after polishing the feed ramp, etc.) BUT it has no issues cycling when firing or chambering via the slide release.
<o:p></o:p>
Markasaurus: in my part of CA it is rare to walk into a gunshop and not see a used Glock. In a State near me they discount them to sell them but they cannot keep revolvers on the shelves! Go figure?:dunno:<o:p></o:p>

AZDUDE95 02-17-2010 22:19

Shoot under water.:rofl:J/K!
Your list looks good. I like to Check recoil spring by aiming gun verticle (unloaded ofcourse) no magazine, pull slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery. Doing this with a new gun will give a good point of ref. May have to upgrade to a new style trigger bar being a 4256-1 vs. old style 4256.

bmwmpb 03-27-2011 08:18

Great thread. Thanks for all of info. I would feel pretty comfortable purchasing a used gun. Utilizing all of the posts, here's the current check sheet:


1. Visual inspection of exterior for damage, scars, wear.
2. Look for hogged out pin holes in the frame. Press them out and put them back to make sure everything is correct.
3. Check the breach face. If it has a inward dimple around the firing pin hole, this will indicate the pistol has been shot alot, maybe with hot hand loads.
4. Check recoil spring by aiming gun verticle (unloaded), no magazine, pull slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery.
5. Load mags for function.
6. Cycle loaded mag through gun by racking slide.
7. Dry fire for function. With the trigger held back, push on the top of the chamber. If there is a lot of movement, it's pretty worn. If there is just a little, less so, but keep in mind, even the new guns will have a little play when you do this.
8. Field strip
9. Inspect internals for cleanliness, wear.
10. Check for aftermarket internals.
11. Run your pinched fingers down the barrel feeling for bulges.
12. Look for any rings or pitting IN the barrel.
13. Make sure the extractor is not broken
14.Check documentation of test fire date, S/N, matching numbers

Bill Lumberg 03-28-2011 09:10

With privately owned guns, I worry about amateur gunsmithing or aftermarket parts. With LE guns, I don't worry- moderately high round count and immaculate functionally.

Poopbear1 04-18-2011 03:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Lumberg (Post 17121986)
With privately owned guns, I worry about amateur gunsmithing or aftermarket parts. With LE guns, I don't worry- moderately high round count and immaculate functionally.

So true....

Most LE guns may look worn to all hell, but a lot of that is just holster wear, and exposure. They undergo routine maintenance for the most part, and fired somewhat regularly to ensure functionality (and officer ability) and are usually very well taken care of.

What a difference knowing that your weapon most likely will be your lifeline in an oh S$%& situation sure does make you want to take much better care of it.

I admit, some of my weapons do not receive near the maintenance or care that my go to weapons do, but all get cleaned/checked after use.

rodfatherjr 05-29-2011 13:37

All these guys know more than I about Glocks! But, I would add the cliche: "more important than the deal is the GUY in the deal" !!

MKEgal 09-23-2011 02:30

re: cycling through a magazine by hand
Use snap caps

ken grant 10-16-2011 11:43

Non-matching Serial #s
 
Glock replaced the frame on my 23 and now numbers don't match.
Just how much did this lower the value?

G30SF46 11-27-2011 11:31

Is there a reason why you wouldn't be able to fire it?


Glock 30

Big Time 11-27-2011 11:41

Or send it to GLOCK and they will check it out and replace what is needed.

shadow_dog 11-27-2011 15:18

One thing I learned the hard way was to check the barrel for bulges. I got a good deal on a Gen1 G17. I gave it a quick look over and bought it. Took it to the Marietta Oh GSSF match to get updated. The armorer found it had a bulged barrel. Now I know to field strip the pistol and drop the barrel back thru the muzzle end of the slide to check for bulges. Mine in particular was bulged right past the chamber, it didn't show on a normal cycle of the slide. Glock offered to replace the barrel, but I would have to send in the bulged barrel. In the end I bought a used Glock barrel and kept the original barrel.

JK-linux 11-27-2011 15:53

Check the serial number list here on GT if you are looking to avoid a perceived issue such as late model gen 3's.

glockman4lif 01-10-2012 14:29

1)CHECK ID
Pretty much what everyone stated.

USDefender 01-21-2012 15:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwmpb (Post 17116135)
4. Check recoil spring by... pull[ing] the slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery.

When I bought my used Glock, I did this. I also did it quickly. Each time, the gun functioned just fine, including locking back on an empty magazine as it's supposed to. What I didn't realize, however, (because I wasn't familiar with how all the 'parts & pieces' should look) was that the end of the 'captured recoil spring/guide rod assy' was missing so that the spring was no longer 'captured.' While it didn't effect the gun's functioning, it was nevertheless broken... Only a quick field strip would have shown me that.

If I had known, I would have still bought the gun but I would have had a great bargaining chip with which to drive the great price I paid even lower...

I guess the saying is true-- "Knowledge is power."

LDNN 03-14-2012 21:15

It's a Glock, not a Hi-Point. There is no bad Glock, some are better than others.


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