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Red dot sight or longslide?
a Burris FastFire III 3MOA cost about as much as a bare longslide for my 20, which would be better for long range accuracy/hunting
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I think the RMR would be better suited to ride on a 10mm slide. I would skip the Longslide, and have either L&M or TSD mill the stock slide for the RMR. I know it's more expensive, but I think it's another one of those "you get what you pay for" situations. The RDS will hands down be the better option for long range targets.
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I run a 3moa dot on my G35. Made a world of difference in my shooting accuracy. But, you'll have a 3 inch dot at 100 yds. and a 1.5 inch dot at 50 yds.
At 35 yards, off hand, I couldn't tell that much difference between my G27 and G35. Adding the 3moa reflex was like cheating. Once you get use to finding the dot (took me a couple boxes of shells) you won't want to shoot without one. |
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The RMR is a bit expensive for me, I was looking at eather a J-Point or FF3, leaning more toward the later |
Since you said that your 2 options are the FF3 or a BARE Longslide, I think you should consider the total cost of a Longslide before you say the RMR is too expensive. After internals, barrel, guide rod, springs, sights & maybe a Cerakote type finish, you're pretty close to the cost of a milled in RMR.
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I've shot both, owned the G20 longslide and have a Fusion longslide, plus, I've shot reflex sites on G20's and would definitely recommend the reflex site. It will be more accurate, by far. |
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thanks. I gotta ask, whats so great about the RMR? is it just a better unit all around, or something specific? |
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do you mean the Burris dovetail mount?
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I'd LOVE to be proved wrong. I've heard of guys filing in then to make them work but never heard of any who tried the mount and it worked as sold. Let me know what you find out! Burris would know... |
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I've also heard that the fastfires can also use doctor or aim point flat base mounts I could be wrong on the companies. Also, it might only be 2nd gen Fastfires... If you mill a mount you might as well mill the slide, right?
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Then again, it depends a lot on your vision and skill level too. The RMR certainly makes it easier to hit targets between 10-50 yards out. Closer or farther, iron sights are more natural for me, but maybe that's just me. |
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Strange. I figured it would be much easier to estimate holdover using a red dot. With the red dot you can actually see your target while holding over it. Holding over with iron sights, the front sight will cover most of your target (if not all of it). How much holdover does the 10mm need at say 100yds? I would think that if a flat shooting 10mm is zeroed at 25yds, POA for 100yds shouldn't be too much different.
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The red dot makes holdover estimation difficult (for me), because there is no size reference. It's easy to learn how much front sight to hold over with iron sights for long range, but the dot doesn't work that way. On my RMR at least, the dot seems to vary in size (and clarity) a little in different lighting conditions, so it doesn't work that well to hold one dot high, for example.
Re. the front sight covering the target, you should be shooting with both eyes open, so the target is still visible. There are different ways to do it, but I keep the rear sight aligned with the target, and hold the front sight over, the amount I need, so depending on the range and caliber, I may be sighting along the top of the front sight, top of the white dot, center of the dot, etc. Trying to align the rear sight somewhere lower on the front sight, then align the target on the top of the front sight, doesn't work well for me; some teach it, but I don't use that method. I feel it's too complex and less accurate. |
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I looked into an RMR but I couldn't justify $250 more for a "disposable" optic. |
You might define accuracy goals and distances, possibly along with expected conditions. If well lit, matte black target sights work well, but in the woods they can disappear easily. Hitting a milk jug @ 60yds isn't difficult w/ decent sights, a 4" group @ 100yds is a whole different discipline. Just having good sights and or a good trigger can be more important than the potential accuracy. You also need to be sure your loads are up to the task, and your own skills. See if you can shoot anything accurately a the distances you want, maybe you have enough gun already. None of this is meant to be a slam, just trying to give some food for thought.
If I had to hit a paper plate at 100yds at dusk with a G20, I think I would use the rail to mount it to a scoped .300 Win Mag....:-) |
Carver now makes a mount for the FF3 and STS that wouldnt require a slide mill .... it's fairly pricey and wouldnt be as clean .... but reversable if you wanted to remove the optic.
http://bb-enterprise.biz/item180057.ctlg PsTaN |
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I am a huge red dot fan. Too old to see regular sights and the red dots are now the only way to go. Faster, good to 100 yards, and real good in poor lighting. |
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Hey, guys,
Love my Glock 20LS with Burris FFIII. I've hunted with it, and backpacked with it, and exposed it to several thousand rounds of 180gr 1250fps 10mm, and the sight is doing just fine. Very, very happy with this setup. http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd391500.jpg |
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