Thread: Reloading 101
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Old 05-16-2011, 18:16   #2
Zombie Steve
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Flaring or Belling the case: Now that we’ve sized down the case it’s going to be difficult to start a flat base bullet in there. Putting a slight bell or flare in the case mouth is the solution. We normally wouldn’t ever chamfer these on an auto cartridge because they headspace on the case mouth.

***Just a quick side track. Setting up dies can be a pain. Since this die isn’t as easy to find the right place as the previous one, I’ll give you a free tip. Get some lead shot. Take out the set screw on the lock ring and drop in a single piece of shot. Once you get this die adjusted lock it down. You won’t need to adjust it again. The lead shot will save you the hassle of ruining those set screws when you over wrench it, and possibly save the threads on the die too. Anyway, works for me.

Back to flaring – DON’T OVERDO IT. If it looks like a trumpet’s bell when you’re done, you’ve gone too far. You’re just overworking your brass. If you hold it up to the light and can’t see anything, you need a tad more. All you need to do is slightly open up the mouth so you can start a bullet. That’s it.

Priming: There are many methods of doing this by hand or on the press, and I’m not getting into Ford vs. Chevy here. The main thing I wanted to point out here is that you want to make sure the primer is seated slightly below flush with the bottom of the case. A common problem with (other people’s) handloads is they don’t seat the primer deep enough. When the firing pin hits it, it finishes seating the primer instead of igniting it. If you try to shoot it again, it will go off. Again, make sure your primer is seated as far as it will go into the primer pocket.


Powder charge: Here’s another step that has many different methods that I won’t go into. The two most important things the new reloader should remember (if they want to become an old reloader) are: make sure every case has powder in it, and make sure you don’t double charge a case. Screwing up the first one (no powder) will create a “squib” (the primer has enough pop to start the bullet down the barrel, but not enough to get it out). If you think you have a squib (heard a pop when it should have been a bang) do not pull the trigger again until you’ve checked the barrel for obstructions! The pressure has to go somewhere, and if it can’t go down the barrel, it’s coming back at you. The second scenario, the double charge, is also very bad news. A double charge doesn’t necessarily mean double pressure – it’s likely much worse. Just do a google images search of blown up guns. To help avoid this, I recommend newbies use a bulky, slower burning powder. If you double charge a case, it will spill out of the top and is much more obvious. Uberfast burning powders like Titegroup (although many like it) use very little powder and it’s much harder to spot a double. Mid range to slow burning powders also don’t have the sharp pressure curve and give you a little more wiggle room as you approach maximum loads.

Last edited by Zombie Steve; 03-14-2014 at 21:58..
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