Originally Posted by Weste
Do we have any Glock certified armorers on here?
Page 24 of the Glock Armorers Manual: Locking Block Pin Removal
THE LOCKING BLOCK PIN SHOULD BE THE FIRST PIN REMOVED (FIG.29), AND MUST BE THE FIRST PIN PUT IN OVER THE TRIGGER DURING REASSEMBLY.
The locking block pin is the first pin out during assembly and the first pin in during reaaembly.
CAUTION: If you install the locking block pin after inserting the slide stop lever, you will bend and damage the slide stop lever spring.
The slide stop lever spring bears on the locking block pin.
Do we, really, need a certified armorer for this? Proper frame pin removal and insertion is, 'Basic Glocking 101'.
REMOVAL: Working from the left side of the frame to the right. Pin #1, (The lock block pin); Pin #2, (The trigger pin); and Pin #3 (The trigger housing unit pin.)
INSTALLATION: Working from the right side of the frame to the left. Pin #1 always goes in first. Now - depending upon whether you believe the Armorer's Manual, or not - either Pin #2 goes in next, or (for some goofy reason) Pin #3 is presently recommended to go in before Pin #2. (Like a Glock's cheap plastic frame is a precision rifle stock!)
Personally, I started out 10 years ago using the recommended order of: '1, 2, 3' for both removal and insertion; and, at the present time I have absolutely no good reason to change. If you have trouble getting the number two pin in, simply giggle the slide stop up and down, or backwards and forwards until it slips in.
IT, ALSO, HELPS TO USE THE SHAFT OF YOUR ARMORER'S TOOL IN ORDER TO ALIGN THE PARTS BEFORE YOU BEGIN RUNNING EACH PIN INTO ITS RESPECTIVE HOLE.
WHEN YOU GET CLOSE TO THE FRAME, PLACE THE TIPS OF YOUR FINGERS ON THE TIP OF THE ARMORER'S TOOL AND FINISH PUSHING THE PIN INTO THE HOLE IN THIS WAY. (YOU'LL BE LESS LIKELY TO SCRATCH THE FRAME IF YOU DO IT LIKE THIS.)